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Thread: I'm building a another 14 bolt front axle.

  1. #1

    I'm building a another 14 bolt front axle.

    Ok so I am going to build another 14 bolt front axle. I need some answers, rather than retubing the long side, what if I machine out the inside of the tube on the diff side, and machine the outside of the tube to be added to it, and weld them together so the tube is longer(BTW this idea was suggested to me from one of the Owners at S&N fab in Wa., they were supposed to do my first axle but I changed my mind.)? Next question is how bout some suggestions for the axle seals? I was considering a machined tube that would fit inside the axle tube with o-rings on the outside, and an axle seal on the inside. Yes I know they sell these but I haven't found them for anything but the D30 or the D44. I know I seem like a douchebag, but that is no cause for not helping. If you really need drawings, I will draw something on AC.

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  3. #2
    Premium Member neagtea's Avatar
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    I have seen tubes that were welded together work fine. I know a guy that has one in the rear of his jeep and has had no problems. It all depends on the craftsmanship.
    As far as the seals I was watching that extreme 4x4 show awhile back and they were doing a front 14 and had some of the seal holders you described.
    IMHO
    The Beaten Path is for Beaten Men

  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by neagtea View Post
    I have seen tubes that were welded together work fine. I know a guy that has one in the rear of his jeep and has had no problems. It all depends on the craftsmanship.
    As far as the seals I was watching that extreme 4x4 show awhile back and they were doing a front 14 and had some of the seal holders you described.
    IMHO
    I wish I could have seen the episode.
    I was thinking I could even do some kind of truss that would help strengthen the tubes.

  5. #4
    Registered User 420willys's Avatar
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    i just messured a set of dana 60 C's i had and theres plenty of meet on the C it self to have it board open to 3.5'', witch is the 14 bolt tube, well that's what mine messure in at.
    this way theres no sliding tube withen tube and you can keep your stock tubes on the 14 bolt. unless you will need more tube on the long side and the factory 14 bolt will fall short.

    for axle seals check out the 14 boltfront axle thread on pirate in chevy section. i think someone had a link to the right one's.

    jason.
    1993 cut up YJ 4.0 700r 231HD 60/14 coiled rear 39.5'' irok's and beating it like it owes me money.

  6. #5
    4x4 Addict! SICK99TJ's Avatar
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    you can go to powerblock.com and check out the episode of extreme 4x4..
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  7. #6
    Affiliated with awesome jsudar's Avatar
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    By the time you get inner and outer C's, spindles and u joints all crammed in there, it will make the axle plenty long. That stuff takes up a lot of space. You could probably just cut down the short side and leave the long side long. Unless you need the pumpkin on the other side.
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  8. #7
    Are you talking about butt-welding the tubes? At very least I would sleeve the inside of the tubes and melt it in good at the seam. Also rosette weld the sleeve in a couple spots on each side. Then you will know that it's going to be somewhat straight and somewhat strong. Adding a truss would be a good addition to take away any doubt.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 420willys View Post
    i just messured a set of dana 60 C's i had and theres plenty of meet on the C it self to have it board open to 3.5'', witch is the 14 bolt tube, well that's what mine messure in at.
    this way theres no sliding tube withen tube and you can keep your stock tubes on the 14 bolt. unless you will need more tube on the long side and the factory 14 bolt will fall short.

    for axle seals check out the 14 boltfront axle thread on pirate in chevy section. i think someone had a link to the right one's.

    jason.
    Quote Originally Posted by jsudar View Post
    By the time you get inner and outer C's, spindles and u joints all crammed in there, it will make the axle plenty long. That stuff takes up a lot of space. You could probably just cut down the short side and leave the long side long. Unless you need the pumpkin on the other side.
    I appreciate the info, I do already have one in my Comanche, I want one for my Wrangler. I have measured, and I think I can get it to work, it might be 1" off from the center of t-case, but I am not too worried about that. I do really appreciate the help.

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Herzog View Post
    Are you talking about butt-welding the tubes? At very least I would sleeve the inside of the tubes and melt it in good at the seam. Also rosette weld the sleeve in a couple spots on each side. Then you will know that it's going to be somewhat straight and somewhat strong. Adding a truss would be a good addition to take away any doubt.
    Looks like it might work the other way, but this is what I was told by S&N



    I don't claim to be any sort of engineer, but I think it might make it a little more understandable.

  11. #10
    But stuck more often. UNSTUCK's Avatar
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    Man, I don't know about doing the machined tube idea. That's a boat load of work to get set up right and I don't think I would ever trust it. If you go with a sleeve, with rosette welds, and a butt weld, the welds hold little to no load. Use a sleeve that has a press fit and you wont have to worry about the axle lining up straight. So you wont need a jig to line it up. You'll save money and have a stronger axle imo.
    You can see my work here: jamfabrocks.blogspot.com. New projects updated 5/13/11!

  12. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by UNSTUCK View Post
    Man, I don't know about doing the machined tube idea. That's a boat load of work to get set up right and I don't think I would ever trust it. If you go with a sleeve, with rosette welds, and a butt weld, the welds hold little to no load. Use a sleeve that has a press fit and you wont have to worry about the axle lining up straight. So you wont need a jig to line it up. You'll save money and have a stronger axle imo.
    Yeah I was going to rosette weld the inner section to the outside section. The good thing is that it is going to work without all this extra time anyway. I just got to find some end forgings now.

  13. #12
    Mbryson's hairdresser I Lean's Avatar
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    So, tell me why you want a 14 bolt front end? You're still limited by the D60 shafts/Ujoints, so the stronger R&P doesn't really gain anything. Is it just to be different?
    Carl

  14. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by I Lean View Post
    So, tell me why you want a 14 bolt front end? You're still limited by the D60 shafts/Ujoints, so the stronger R&P doesn't really gain anything. Is it just to be different?
    Well actually the last raw D60 Chromo shafts I bought were a hair under 1-5/8" which is what a 14 bolt has. I had them splined to 30 splines, and they are almost 1/8" bigger than a D60 shaft. Plus the 14 bolt has the pinion support, easy to setup, super strong carrier.

  15. #14
    Virile agitur Tacoma's Avatar
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    Were you breaking cromo 60 shafts????
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  16. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Tacoma View Post
    Were you breaking cromo 60 shafts????
    No but I have a friend who broke D60 Longfield CV Shafts here is the link:

    http://www.toyotasuperaxles.com/

    the item is midway down on that page

    He runs 39" crawlers, and some day I would like to run 44" boggers

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