the plasma cutter told me to do it

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
supergper said:
from a guy on POR...he has them listed in the for sale section...its only two of them I think...IMO, 10" is a little small for waht we want...but I am sure they would work fine:D


I will see if I can find the ad again and post it up...


here is the link
 

utahxjer

Well-Known Member
I know a guy in Cali, who has a xj and just cut off the frame rails and is going to be making his own frame. I can get you his email if you want.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
East Stabbington
The windshield idea is a waste of time. I went way out of my way twice to work a windshield into the equation and then work around the lines of a windshield/ZJ. Do you know how long it lasted? 14 hours. No more windshield. If I had just ditched it to begin with it would have saved me time, money, and made design easier.




If you do coilovers, go to 14's. It's worth the extra few bucks. I know you can get DT CO's for pretty cheap, but for only a bit more than that you can pick up the SAW's which seam to be much nicer. I run 14" SAW's and I'm lookin to put some up front--mainly for baja purposes.
 

XJEEPER

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland Springs
xj_punk said:
that is what i thought too, but add a cage into that and it makes it a false statement. i will have to build more of a cage than average and focus a lot of it on the rear, but that doesn't bother me.

Saw your posts on NAXJA too, nice whack job punk. You'll do well to follow Beezil's tips on this, I've know him for years and he's already been down the same road you're headed with this project and has some great ideas and engineering in his tubed-XJ. If uni's are ultra-hip....then what are uni-tube hybrids? ;)

I have serious plasma cutter envy right now..........Santa couldn't wedge one in my stocking, I guess?
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
utahxjer said:
I know a guy in Cali, who has a xj and just cut off the frame rails and is going to be making his own frame. I can get you his email if you want.

tell him to post on here, of course then he won't get anything done!!!!!! the truth hurts, but we are all procastinators!!!!!!!!!!!! :ugh:


unibodies are so futuristic :rolleyes:
 

utahxjer

Well-Known Member
xj_punk said:
tell him to post on here, of course then he won't get anything done!!!!!! the truth hurts, but we are all procastinators!!!!!!!!!!!! :ugh:


unibodies are so futuristic :rolleyes:
How do I make a link to this thread?
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
I gotta agree with hicky on beefing the uniframe up all the way to the motor mounts..... My little bros XJ thats only mildly built and still has the top is ripping the Uniframe right behind the motor mount.... I would also hate to see whats happening to my friend Jasons XJ.... The whole thing is tearing in 2.... Evein with cage tie ins and what not.... Do yourself a favor while you already have it torn apart, go the extra mile and do it right.... You will only thank yourself in the long run.....
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
how do you beef the uniframe up there? there is not much you can do. i could sleeve the rails with some channel but there are so many stupid bends and it gets thicker and thinner all over the place what a pain in the ass!
cody doesn't even have any beefing up there does he? zj and xj uniframes are quite similar.

what shall i do?
cut all the uniframe underneath the cab and keep it in the engine area?
do you think it is a good idea to just bolt and weld some square tube to the floor and tie everything into that? i was planning on replacing the rockers with square tube and building a lot of my cage off of that. and of course the rockers will be tied into the new frame.

-nate
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
Figuring out that is the fun part..... Ide start with cutting out the uniframe and replacing it with 2x2 square tube.... then make body mounts for your floor like a normal frame.... even cooler but a little harder would be to use 2" round tube. In the motormount area you can use 3" 1/8" thick strap mettle to build a strap /stiffener if you dont want to cut out the uniframe. Just pull off the motormounts and drill holes or weld the motor mounts back in after you plate the inside of the uniframe... Even adding plate to one side of the uniframe will drastically help out in this area....
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
i am going to build a couple things for the engine area of the uniframe. i want to build the shock hoops into the engine bay and have a removable bar going across like the riceracers do. and then underneath the oil pan i will have another one with a bend in it to clear the pan. hell maybe i will put a real elaborate one under there with triangulation and stuff. i think that is all i will do for the engine area.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
East Stabbington
I think that if you sufficiently reinforce the majority of the unibody, solid rockers, tied into cage, tied into crossmember (a couple--ladder style to stiffen) and have a nice cage that ties the front bumper into everything--you shouldn't have any problems with the motor mounts.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Cody said:
I think that if you sufficiently reinforce the majority of the unibody, solid rockers, tied into cage, tied into crossmember (a couple--ladder style to stiffen) and have a nice cage that ties the front bumper into everything--you shouldn't have any problems with the motor mounts.

you haven't had any probs with motor mounts right?

i dig your crossmembers, especially the fact that there are two of them! i might just make a skidplate that covers that whole ares though. we will see.

i am trying to think if there is legitimate reason why i shouldn't just plasma off the uniframe under the cab and replace it with 3x3 .250 or 2x4 .250?? i could just run them straight back instead of having stupid bends and crap like the uniframe does. then i will make a frame crossmember at the rear with the same material. i could build the rest of the frame out of dom or square tube off of that.

i think it would be a good move but i need some opinions!

-nate
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
.250 wall is over kill. 1/8" wall would be almost twice as thick as you unibody frame.

I would treat your current chassis like a body only, and bolt it to a frame like Grinch said. Keep it light! :)
 
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