Hey guys I need help. I finally got me a vehicle capable of towing the jeep but have no idea of what kind of trailer I should even look for. It's a typical TJ with the lift and tires. I'm a budget minded guy so as nice as it would be to get fancy one i'm great with a bang for my buck type trailer. I love driving the jeep but a hour long drive spend 4 hours in rocks then the hour drive back, well my body doesn't care for it anymore. Thanks.
Trailer info
- Thread starter Omgbecki
- Start date
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Congrats! Having a trailer queen is the best way to have fun on the trail without stressing about how you're going to drive the mess home if you Tuerck it.
You need a car hauler with trailer brakes. A good brake controller in your tow rig is worth its weight in gold.
I don't love ones with side rails because it makes it a pain to get in and out. Drive over fenders are a bonus but not 100% necessary.
Measure your track width and make sure it will fit what you buy. I'll bet you're close to 76."
I love my deck-over because it let's you run a narrower total width trailer (& I'm close to 83" wide so it won't fit between the fenders on almost anything). My last trailer was wide enough to fit between the fenders but it was 103" total width which was a pain to drive in construction zones.
Weigh your Jeep and see what it weighs.
Most full bodied TJs are like 4500ish lbs (mine is stripped out to the max and weighs 4080lbs: 4280lbs with me in it and trail spares + tools). Try to pick a trailer with a capacity well over your expected load. Maybe 75% of the max rated load is a safe margin.
I'd expect to pay $2500-$3000 used.
Make sure you carefully inspect the tires on a used one. Trailer tires rarely wear out tread but aren't usually good for more than 5 years.
I'm sure lots of guys will chime in what else to look for.
You need a car hauler with trailer brakes. A good brake controller in your tow rig is worth its weight in gold.
I don't love ones with side rails because it makes it a pain to get in and out. Drive over fenders are a bonus but not 100% necessary.
Measure your track width and make sure it will fit what you buy. I'll bet you're close to 76."
I love my deck-over because it let's you run a narrower total width trailer (& I'm close to 83" wide so it won't fit between the fenders on almost anything). My last trailer was wide enough to fit between the fenders but it was 103" total width which was a pain to drive in construction zones.
Weigh your Jeep and see what it weighs.
Most full bodied TJs are like 4500ish lbs (mine is stripped out to the max and weighs 4080lbs: 4280lbs with me in it and trail spares + tools). Try to pick a trailer with a capacity well over your expected load. Maybe 75% of the max rated load is a safe margin.
I'd expect to pay $2500-$3000 used.
Make sure you carefully inspect the tires on a used one. Trailer tires rarely wear out tread but aren't usually good for more than 5 years.
I'm sure lots of guys will chime in what else to look for.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
If you buy a used trailer, plan on replacing the tires immediately. Make sure the deck is wide enough for your Jeep. If you can find one with 5k axles, I would go that route. Those axles should be six lug.
Remember that trailer GVW includes the trailer weight, so a 7,000 GVW trailer is probably the minimum you should try to get away with, 10k would be better.
Longer trailers typically tow better and allow you to get the jeep weight over the trailer axles. My father in law has had the tj/trailer push his diesel excursion around if the tj is not in the right spot. (I have never had a issue with my v10 extra cab long bed SD even though my truck is lighter it is longer) I would hate to try to put my XJ on an 18ft trailer, I have used a few 20 ft and they are great. With a TJ a 18ft would probably work out fine.
My father in law bought a new 20ft PJ a few years ago it was about $5500 if I remember. He looked for used and everything was beat up too much or they wanted almost new money for it. (he found a comparable good used trailer and the guy was asking $5000)
As with trucks, the more lugnuts the higher the axles are rated at, 8 lug axles = good
You can rent a trailer from Lone Peak Trailer. (Wasatch no longer rents trailers) It is about $70 a day.
Since you are looking used don't get too wraped up in which ramps to get, I have used slide out and fold down, both have their pros and cons. With slide out is easy to be lazy and not use them for unloading the jeep, just drive off.
be sure to buy some nice tie downs, I like the Mac's Straps.
*Edit* I like the Mac's straps, Chains are great too, whatever you like make sure the rig is going to stay on the trailer
Nathan
Longer trailers typically tow better and allow you to get the jeep weight over the trailer axles. My father in law has had the tj/trailer push his diesel excursion around if the tj is not in the right spot. (I have never had a issue with my v10 extra cab long bed SD even though my truck is lighter it is longer) I would hate to try to put my XJ on an 18ft trailer, I have used a few 20 ft and they are great. With a TJ a 18ft would probably work out fine.
My father in law bought a new 20ft PJ a few years ago it was about $5500 if I remember. He looked for used and everything was beat up too much or they wanted almost new money for it. (he found a comparable good used trailer and the guy was asking $5000)
As with trucks, the more lugnuts the higher the axles are rated at, 8 lug axles = good
You can rent a trailer from Lone Peak Trailer. (Wasatch no longer rents trailers) It is about $70 a day.
Since you are looking used don't get too wraped up in which ramps to get, I have used slide out and fold down, both have their pros and cons. With slide out is easy to be lazy and not use them for unloading the jeep, just drive off.
be sure to buy some nice tie downs, I like the Mac's Straps.
*Edit* I like the Mac's straps, Chains are great too, whatever you like make sure the rig is going to stay on the trailer
Nathan
Last edited:
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Good advice above. The age old chains vs strap debate just started in the post above. I’m a chain person. Others are strap people.
Trailer tires are sucktastic. Light truck tires are awesome. I’d get the 16” tires if you can get away with it. I have 15” and am running 15” Hercules Power ST2. They have held up ok but because 15” trailer tires suck so bad, I had Discount put their road hazard warranty on them. I finally killed a tire about 4 years in. Just got it replaced today.
I have had a few trailers (not like I’ve had trucks). Heavier duty is always more welcome. For the past six or so years I’ve had a light duty PJ that can hack 7000 lbs. It’s near its capacities with the Jeep on it but works ok. I bought that as I thought I’d be towing behind a motor home. That hasn’t hit the tow rig stable yet.
Trailer tires are sucktastic. Light truck tires are awesome. I’d get the 16” tires if you can get away with it. I have 15” and am running 15” Hercules Power ST2. They have held up ok but because 15” trailer tires suck so bad, I had Discount put their road hazard warranty on them. I finally killed a tire about 4 years in. Just got it replaced today.
I have had a few trailers (not like I’ve had trucks). Heavier duty is always more welcome. For the past six or so years I’ve had a light duty PJ that can hack 7000 lbs. It’s near its capacities with the Jeep on it but works ok. I bought that as I thought I’d be towing behind a motor home. That hasn’t hit the tow rig stable yet.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I don’t really know why they suck. They’ve just been WAY more craptastic to me than other tires.
Jinx
when in doubt, upgrade!
- Location
- So Jordan, Utah
I really recommend a spare tire.
I have had two vacations saved this year because I have had a spare. (And lucky there was a tire store open when I needed it)
I have had two vacations saved this year because I have had a spare. (And lucky there was a tire store open when I needed it)
Toad
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Millville(logan)
What is your new tow rig? If you have a smaller gas truck I would say keep the trailer as light as possible. I would guess a 16 foot 7k car hauler is 1800ish pounds. I had a 20 foot 10k pj that weighed 3200 pounds. Then I went to a 22 foot pj superwide with drive over fender that was 3800 pounds. Currently I have a 26 foot load trail superwide that is 4800 pounds. You can see how easy it is to add extra weight. I would love to have a 18 foot 7k trailer also. The one I have now is big. But I don't have room to park two trailers. I tow with a newer diesel so the extra weight is really not a big deal.
I am a fan of brakes on both axles. A lot of smaller trailers only have brakes on the rear axle. They can easily be added.
Use a quality brake controller. I had a prodigy in my last truck and they are great.
I am also a fan of Macs tie downs. I started with chains. I evolved. Still use chains for equipment. Not for a car.
Trailer tires are cheaply built. I am one of the few that wears trailer tires out. Most of the time they rot away. Keep them inflated properly. Do a visual check of them regularly and you should be fine.
I am a fan of brakes on both axles. A lot of smaller trailers only have brakes on the rear axle. They can easily be added.
Use a quality brake controller. I had a prodigy in my last truck and they are great.
I am also a fan of Macs tie downs. I started with chains. I evolved. Still use chains for equipment. Not for a car.
Trailer tires are cheaply built. I am one of the few that wears trailer tires out. Most of the time they rot away. Keep them inflated properly. Do a visual check of them regularly and you should be fine.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Lots of good advice here, perhaps mixed with a small bit of paranoia. Don't worry--I'll explain.
But first, my trailer history. In 2013, I wanted to buy a trailer to tow my own TJ. I did consider used ones, but the small drop in price compared to new was typically offset by the amount of money I'd need to immediately sink into them to bring them up to snuff. I quickly decided buying new was a better overall value, so that's what I did.
I was considering three brands: a Big Tex from Lone Peak; a PJ from Wasatch; and a Big Bubba from, well, Big Bubba. They were all priced close enough as to not matter, so it came down to the trailers themselves. The Big Tex and Big Bubba were virtually identical--indeed, had you peeled off the labels I probably couldn't tell one from the other. The more I looked at the PJ, the more it stood out. It was better than the other two due to a host of little details: flush-mounted lights all around, removable aluminum fenders, a pivoting jack rather than a fixed one, and so on. It set me back $2500, but I feel I got a very nice trailer and felt it was worth the trip to Layton to get it.
My PJ is a 16' 7k dual axle (with brakes only on one):
This trailer is perfectly adequate for hauling a built TJ, and it has also hauled a number of other vehicles over the years. It weighs about 1800 pounds empty, which leaves me with 5200 pounds of cargo capacity. My TJ weighs 4020 pounds in daily driver configuration; loaded up for trails will push that up to around 4100 pounds. This is obviously well withing the design limit of the trailer, and why I said this trailer works so well for a TJ. My ramps slide out to the side, and that has also worked well for me over the years. As the photo shows, I am a strap guy rather than a chain guy. I use four independent straps for safety and redundancy, at shallow angles, and I always carry at least one new spare strap in the tow rig just in case (though to date I've never had any sort of roadside strap emergency, probably because I inspect those before use and replace anything that looks even mildly iffy).
And now for the paranoia: tires. My trailer came with what the internet calls the single worst trailer tires on the planet: Power King Towmax tires, C1 load rating (my size is 205/75-15). Yes, they are Chinese. Their rated weight capacity is 1820 lbs per tire, which means all four just barely handle the 7k rating of the trailer. But despite all that, these tires gave me over five years of flawless performance before finally needing to be replaced earlier this month. I attribute that to three things: I always checked their pressure and made sure all were at 50 psi before each use; I didn't overload the trailer (except for only a couple times); I keep my speed to 70 MPH max while towing.
I just replaced them with a new set. Some folks here (and elsewhere) suggest using regular truck tires on your trailer. But every time I did research with an actual tire manufacturer, they always say you should use trailer tires on a trailer due to the different stresses that tires on a trailer encounter compared to tires on your truck. In the end, I bought more trailer tires... but I upgraded to a stronger D1 load rating (still in my same size). This increases each tire's load capacity from 1820 lbs to 2150 lbs. It seemed like a wise idea, definitely worth the few extra dollars per tire. I ended up with Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires, which are supposed to be some of the better (best?) trailer tires out there. Time will tell, I suppose.
Anyway, that's a quick summary of my own adventures in trailering a built TJ. I hope it helps.
But first, my trailer history. In 2013, I wanted to buy a trailer to tow my own TJ. I did consider used ones, but the small drop in price compared to new was typically offset by the amount of money I'd need to immediately sink into them to bring them up to snuff. I quickly decided buying new was a better overall value, so that's what I did.
I was considering three brands: a Big Tex from Lone Peak; a PJ from Wasatch; and a Big Bubba from, well, Big Bubba. They were all priced close enough as to not matter, so it came down to the trailers themselves. The Big Tex and Big Bubba were virtually identical--indeed, had you peeled off the labels I probably couldn't tell one from the other. The more I looked at the PJ, the more it stood out. It was better than the other two due to a host of little details: flush-mounted lights all around, removable aluminum fenders, a pivoting jack rather than a fixed one, and so on. It set me back $2500, but I feel I got a very nice trailer and felt it was worth the trip to Layton to get it.
My PJ is a 16' 7k dual axle (with brakes only on one):
This trailer is perfectly adequate for hauling a built TJ, and it has also hauled a number of other vehicles over the years. It weighs about 1800 pounds empty, which leaves me with 5200 pounds of cargo capacity. My TJ weighs 4020 pounds in daily driver configuration; loaded up for trails will push that up to around 4100 pounds. This is obviously well withing the design limit of the trailer, and why I said this trailer works so well for a TJ. My ramps slide out to the side, and that has also worked well for me over the years. As the photo shows, I am a strap guy rather than a chain guy. I use four independent straps for safety and redundancy, at shallow angles, and I always carry at least one new spare strap in the tow rig just in case (though to date I've never had any sort of roadside strap emergency, probably because I inspect those before use and replace anything that looks even mildly iffy).
And now for the paranoia: tires. My trailer came with what the internet calls the single worst trailer tires on the planet: Power King Towmax tires, C1 load rating (my size is 205/75-15). Yes, they are Chinese. Their rated weight capacity is 1820 lbs per tire, which means all four just barely handle the 7k rating of the trailer. But despite all that, these tires gave me over five years of flawless performance before finally needing to be replaced earlier this month. I attribute that to three things: I always checked their pressure and made sure all were at 50 psi before each use; I didn't overload the trailer (except for only a couple times); I keep my speed to 70 MPH max while towing.
I just replaced them with a new set. Some folks here (and elsewhere) suggest using regular truck tires on your trailer. But every time I did research with an actual tire manufacturer, they always say you should use trailer tires on a trailer due to the different stresses that tires on a trailer encounter compared to tires on your truck. In the end, I bought more trailer tires... but I upgraded to a stronger D1 load rating (still in my same size). This increases each tire's load capacity from 1820 lbs to 2150 lbs. It seemed like a wise idea, definitely worth the few extra dollars per tire. I ended up with Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires, which are supposed to be some of the better (best?) trailer tires out there. Time will tell, I suppose.
Anyway, that's a quick summary of my own adventures in trailering a built TJ. I hope it helps.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I think I have the older version of your trailer? My Jeep is at least 4900 lbs on the trailer. I’m pretty much right at capacity?
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Interested in a fixer upper? I have a 7k? Big Tex, brand new tires, deck completely solid. It's actually ready to tow and use with the exception of lights, they are completely stripped and I have a full wiring setup in a box.
Toad
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Millville(logan)
Sweet ranger wheels
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Hell, that just may be. I was thinking American Racing Outlaw II's but they came with the trailer from an RME'er 11-12 years ago
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
How wide is it between the rails? I may be interested if the OP isn't.
I second this. However, I would only in it to make a buck.. So anybody who wants to use it should be in front of me.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
What he said....but I'm more interested in the price. I can make the rails work for my application.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Great question, just measured. 16' long deck, 78" wide between wheel wells. $1500 obo
To be fair, I've got a concrete guy that started here today and he actually asked me about the "trailer out front", he'll know tomorrow if he's buying.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I gotta pass. 78" is just barely too narrow.