Bullet proof Dodge steering upgrade

RRBDodge

New Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
Awesome to see people talking about Dodge steering. I have built a full off custom cross over Steering on my 98. Its all dom tubing and 3/4 inch heims with no bends in any of the tubing and it clears with no rubbing with 16 inch wheels. I also relocated and built a new track bar with dom tubing and 3/4 inch heims. I do have a 5 1/2 inch lift and I'm not sure if it would work on a stock truck but it has worked flawlessly on mine for the past 3 years. I've wheeled my truck pretty hard and even dropped the entire front end on my diesel on a rock right in the center of the tie rod and it didn't even bend. I'm currently in the process of getting a patent on the design and then I'll look at marketing it. As soon as I get a chance to get to a computer ill post up some pics.
 

jackjoh

Jack - KC6NAR
Supporting Member
Location
Riverton, UT
I have a front end problem that has been fixed but I think they double charged me because they did work that should have been covered by one of two recalls. This is the rejection they sent me and where do I send a reply for additional review.

Case #: 24685945
VIN: 1D7KS28C26J138094
Vehicle Description: DODGE RAM 2500 SLT QUAD CAB 4X4
March 27, 2014 Mr. J. Johnston, Writer advised that Customer requested to have factory original equipment replaced due to wandering. LARRY H MILLER CHRYSLER JEEP service department used the only parts they had available, which was the steering upgrade kit 52122362AJ, SM did confirm that Customer required all the other parts in the kit. SM did know he had to replace the Outer Tie Rod ends as they would be under recall N62 for replacement/service parts. SM did charge for the service of installing suspension kit, and the part. SM did not charge for the replacement of the Outer Tie Rod ends when Customer re-visited 02/26/2014. N62 recall is on replacement or service parts not on factory original equipment Regards, Charlene Customer Service Representative
Note: This is a system generated message. Please do not reply.
Sincerely,
CHARLENE
Customer Assistance Center

BUMP
Does anyone know how to get hold of Dodge to try and get someof my money back. How about Gephart?
 

jackjoh

Jack - KC6NAR
Supporting Member
Location
Riverton, UT
LHM gave me a phone number. This is my latest attempt to get response using Facebook.

How do I contact Dodge, Chrysler or Fiat about the poor service I received on my 2006 Dodge Ram. I was charged for work that was covered by one of three different recalls. LHM referred me to Chrysler and after receiving their refusal to mitigate the cost I can only contact them by phone. I would like to contact them in person or by email as I do not hear too well over the phone
 

plaidfro

Active Member
Location
Provo, UT
I know that I am dragging up an old thread, but it looks like some locals here have gone through this process. I own a Dodge Ram '08 Heavy Duty 2500, and I would like to upgrade the steering with the T-style Tie-rod/Drag link. Are there better 'bolt on' aftermarket options vs. the dealership? I had them check my truck and they said it was not eligible for the recall, so I am on my own... and simple want to make a good choice on the parts I put on. I'd appreciate any feedback or help on this.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
I'm a bit out of the loop these days since I haven't owned a dodge truck for a couple of years. I'm sure there are some good aftermarket parts out there, but I'd be surprised if the quality compared to the dealer-offered upgrade. Carli and Thuren are both companies I've heard good things about, and they'll probably have a solution. KORE is good stuff too, but if I'm not mistaken, they just sell the same OEM parts that the dealer sells.

If you don't mind, post up what you learn in your search, and what solution you choose.

Good luck!
 
Did the upgrade today.

So here is an update based on the latest. I picked up the upgrade kit from the dealer yesterday part number is still good, however the letters at the end start at AB and go all the way to AL, doesn't matter though, same kit. I gathered up all the necessary tools and Bryson was spot on, everything bolted right up with no problems, well almost no problems. I have the stock rims (16") and to answer the question asked several times on this post and others, you have to cut off about 1/4" of the tie rod stem. I actually cut off 1/2" and have plenty to get a wrench on if necessary. Clearance is fine. Now, all said and done and off for the test drive, and when making a sharp left (all the way to bump stop) there was a horrible scraping that could only mean something was rubbing against the rim. Well with as thick as the tie rod knuckles are on this setup, there is a slight bump out that when turned to bump stop was scraping right up agains the rim. This only occurred on the right side, left has plenty of clearance at bump stop, but after all the left side is the adjustable side, so makes sense. I used paint to help me figure where the problem area was and then I used a grinder to smooth out the bump. (realistically I took about 1/4" of material off, smoothed it down, I used a brand new out of box Dewalt grinder and wow, worked great). Painted up the tie rod with a nice black paint, went for a drive, pulled the wheel and no marks. All in all, I worked carefully and meticulously and the thing drives like a dream! I put a new aftermarket steering damper and did the sway bar links as well. Did an eyeball alignment with my brand new never driven on Firestone Transforce tires and for the first time in 10 years the steering wheel is actually straight when the wheels are, go figure. I am heading to an alignment tomorrow to really see how far out I am, and looking forward to a much smoother steering. Thanks Bryson for the original write up, this was definitely worth the blood, sweat and swearing. I am looking forward to my next long drive and not having steering fatigue.

I'll try and post pics once I get them off my phone and onto my computer.



I'm a bit out of the loop these days since I haven't owned a dodge truck for a couple of years. I'm sure there are some good aftermarket parts out there, but I'd be surprised if the quality compared to the dealer-offered upgrade. Carli and Thuren are both companies I've heard good things about, and they'll probably have a solution. KORE is good stuff too, but if I'm not mistaken, they just sell the same OEM parts that the dealer sells.

If you don't mind, post up what you learn in your search, and what solution you choose.

Good luck!
 

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
Anyone know where I could pick up a reamer with the right taper to make this work with my 96?
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
I think D_lux fab has/had one. "Erik d_lux" is his RME username or dluxfab.com. Maybe he can teach you to fly that fancy new G6 you got for Christmas too!;)
 

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
I think D_lux fab has/had one. "Erik d_lux" is his RME username or dluxfab.com. Maybe he can teach you to fly that fancy new G6 you got for Christmas too!;)

Brian got the fancy G6, i'm not made of that kind of cash. Thanks for the link though
 
Hi, i have a 2nd gen (1996) 3500 could anybody tell me what type of special tools i need for the upgrade, and if there are any detailed instructions so i can prepare myself before i start the project
 

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
Hi, i have a 2nd gen (1996) 3500 could anybody tell me what type of special tools i need for the upgrade, and if there are any detailed instructions so i can prepare myself before i start the project

Typical hand tools should suffice

Not so much instructions, but this guy lists all the part numbers. I ordered all mine off Rock Auto

http://www.mark74.com/ram_modifications.htm#crossover steering

These part numbers are a direct bolt in, you will need a different style steering dampener I used https://www.amazon.com/Moog-SSD92-S...?ie=UTF8&qid=1472915748&sr=8-1&keywords=SSD92
 
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leorn

reset
Location
Roy
I thought I would bump this ancient thread. I got a new tie rod on a recall for my 07. Had it in for something else at LHM. They mentioned the recalls and handled it. My truck has 250k on it fwiw. I'm guessing its a better part. They said the recall was for death wobble. Obv aligned it too which was sweet.
 
Hi bryson, I read your article on the bullet proof steering. I also have a 2001 (3500) I bought the kit bolted it on, but my steering draglink is too long throwing my center steering off 1 1/2 to the left and 21/2 to the right did you have to change the pitman arm?

Any thoughts or help will be appreciated.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Hi bryson, I read your article on the bullet proof steering. I also have a 2001 (3500) I bought the kit bolted it on, but my steering draglink is too long throwing my center steering off 1 1/2 to the left and 21/2 to the right did you have to change the pitman arm?

Any thoughts or help will be appreciated.
I used the stock 2001 pitman arm without modification. I just adjusted the draglink length using the adjustment collar to center the steering wheel, and all was good.

I also replied to your PM.
 
So, anybody that drives a Dodge truck (particularly a 2nd gen - '94-'02) knows how sucky the steering setup is. Most trucks have the inverted "Y" setup similar to most coil spring Jeeps. Stupid design. Your toe changes infinitely as your height changes, so your alignment is different depending on how much weight you are carrying at any given time. I have been wanting to upgrade mine for as long as I've owned the truck, so I finally decided to give it a shot.

Mopar sells an upgrade kit that is listed to fit only '03+ trucks, and the package includes all linkage that comes factory on the '09-'10 trucks. The parts are ginormous (1.5" dia. SOLID tie rod!) and it is an inverted "T" setup (read: tie rod is solid between the knuckles - no more variable toe!) Everyone told me not to bother trying to put it on my 2001 Ram 2500, but I rarely listen to advice.:ugh: So I went to the dealership and bought the kit - Mopar # 52122362AF - List price is $350, but if you're a U4 member it's much cheaper!:cool:

Cool part - It all BOLTED ON with absolutely no modifications! Tie rod and drag link fit flawlessly.

It should fit all '01-'02 2500-3500 trucks with no mods, and will fit '94-'00 trucks, but you likely need to have a reamer handy to enlarge the holes in the pitman arm and knuckles (they're soft metal, so it's cake with a sharp reamer.) I may be a bit off on the years, so an easy way to tell if it'll bolt on to your truck is to measure the thread diameter on the tie-rod stud - if it is 14mm then you're set! If you have a 2003 or newer with the inverted "Y" steering, this is a huge bolt-on upgrade for you as well!

The kit came with a bracket to fit a stock-style shimmy shock, but my truck had a Skycrapper stabilizer on it, and I didn't want to bother adapting it to fit, so I just removed the bracket and didn't run a stabilizer. Gave it a tape measure alignment (1/4" of toe-in measured from the front and back of 35" tires) and straightened the steering wheel...

Test drove it last night (100+ miles, ~20 on dirt) and it drove sweet! Of course I had to test out my new KORE front springs, and Bilsteins too.:cool:

For less than $300, and an hour max to install, I think this setup is impossible to beat! It's super huge, and you don't have to worry about bending tube to clear the diff, and using noisy heims on your steering.:)

Do it!
Does anyone know if I can do this upgrade on my 00 Ram 1500 please and thank you for help!
 
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