General Tech What did you work on Today?

1969honda said:

I really like the radiant personally, I've worked in a few different shops with radiant and forced air setups. The radiant heaters are more efficient and since they heat the objects in the heated space when you open an overhead door for awhile and then close it, it gets back up to temp much faster.

For example: A 32 ton M109A6 howitzer takes a full 4 day weekend to thaw out in a small forced air shop, roughly 35 x 40, from being in the cold out side. We would pull one in early Thursday morning and next Monday it still felt 5-10 degrees cooler in the shop than the rest of the building. After swapping to two radiant tube heaters from the 4 forced air heaters I could pull one in at 8 am and be totally thawed out, almost warm to the touch and back up to 65° inside by quiting time at 4 pm the same day.

I had a buddy order it from here in Draper:

Superior Tube Heaters | Draper, UT | Infrared Radiant Tube Heaters

Unique site dedicated to helping you find the best infrared tube heaters, garage heaters and patio heaters for your application

www.superiortubeheaters.com

It's their UA series 20' 40k BTU. I'm close to $2k with the wall thimble to horizontally vent it and a Nest thermostat e (almost free after rebates with rocky mountain and dominion)..

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I Lean said:

That's an interesting metric for comparing heating rates, that most people probably can't relate to. But I'd like to be able to.

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xjtony said:

Worked my buddy's jeep some. We are admittedly doing thing a bit butch, but we are basically turning a XJ with a cage into a fully connected chassis. This is in between the rear C/O mounts. Before the cage was just screwed into the sheet metal crossmember under the floor. The frame had drooped 3/4 of an inch. Now it's all back where it needs to be and fully welded to the frame and cage.
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Hickey said:

My favorite XJ is Shane's buggy.

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I Lean said:

Mine too.

@Herzog , are there any leftover XJ parts in your buggy aside from the engine/trans/wiring?

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Pike2350 said:

I finished setting up the small compressor on top of my cabinets. I used a 3/4" and 1/2" plywood and put holes in the 1/2" b for three feet tho sir in so it won't walk walk around. The shelf had a few rows of toolbox rubber drawer liner to bell cushion and isolate it from the cabinets.....then 2 brackets bolted through tge plywood and screwed into studs.

I used a 3/8" rubber hose from Harbor Freight. They sell 8-15' pieces choir $5.99 so I figure that would be easiest. I ran it through some PV. Just to make clamping it down and "hiding it" a little more.

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zmotorsports said:

Last night I had to pull the recirc actuator back out of my Jeep to re-clock the splines. I hate doing a job twice.

But I guess it happens. Full pictures can be seen in my Jeep Projects thread, hope the information is helpful to anyone who has to perform a recirculation damper door actuator replacement.

Mike

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mbryson said:

Looks good. Now I need a new ratchet https://www.rme4x4.com/threads/zmotorsports-2011-jkur-build-thread.99822/post-1156625

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anderson750 said:

Pre-season race prep is underway. Took everything apart to replace or repack bearingsView attachment 133974
Prior to taking everything apart I knew I had a chain adjuster bolt that was seized. I got it out without ruining the threads but they were definitely going to need to be chased. I used it as an excuse to go and buy the HF tap and die set @Gravy mentioned in another thread. While not the set you would probably tap a bunch of holes with it is a big step up from their basic kit. I used it to chase the dirt and loctite that has accumulated over a year of racing and it is more than adequate for that.
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