Gawynz Manche Thread

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Tried out my new Swag press brake to make a panhard mount out of 1/4" plate.
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The drag link and panhard should line up well, but with everything being pushed up I am a bit concerned with clearance to the oil pan. Just waiting on a couple pieces to build the drag link and panhard, then onto brakes.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
It's getting tight, but I think it'll work. My only clearance concern is the panhard to diff cover, I think I'll just bump stop the front to account for the clearance, I'll need to do so anyway for the tire/wheel well. Reaming out the pitman arm and panhard frame bracket for GM 1ton TREs was the least fun part of this, but a learned after several different approaches/tools and breaking one reamer that a small drill driver impact works great.

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Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
With work and life events (I got married!) I haven't made too much progress on the manche but I'm back at it. I pulled the axle again, tweaked the panhard mount position a bit, and final welded everything. Thoroughly cleaned and painted the axle and links using POR-15; this project is my first time using POR-15 and while it's a bit of work going through the degrease - rinse - dry - etch - rinse - dry - paint - paint process I'm happy with the outcome. I just used a cheap brush to paint and it self leveled pretty well, used a rattle can to get hard to reach areas.

So in summary:
  • High pinion, "large u-joint", Dana 30 out of a '97 XJ
  • Trussed
  • Gusseted C's
  • WJ knuckle and brake swap
  • Over the knuckle, crossover steering
  • 1 ton TREs all around
  • Replaced all bushings, seals, and bearings
  • Yukon 4.56 with Eaton Truetrac
  • Ruff Stuff diff cover
  • POR-15 paint
  • '21 JT takeoffs w/ adapters
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Dana 30 Jackass.jpg

Ha, still just a Dana 30, but I think for my intentions this will be plenty. Maybe too much work for just a d30, but I kind of like to think of it as low risk practice/fun.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Axle back under. I'm pretty happy with how everything lined up though I had to pull the axle back about 0.5" - 1" more than I would have liked for the panhard to clear the diff cover. I'm going to need to trim fenders anyway so I'll try and center the wheel back in the well that way.

Full stuff, I plan to add some 3" aluminum bump extensions to the axle side, the closest clearance is between the panhard and diff cover but it's all fairly tight.
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Some but not full droop.
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Brake lines on order, I plan to measure/order some Bilstein 5100s (unless folks have a better idea?), add bump stops, new u-joints in the front drive shaft, aaaaand I think that's pretty much it for the front end....

Next up is to flip it around, add shock mounts, paint, brakes lines, shocks, and final assemble the 8.8.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Front end is greased, oiled, and 98% done finally, just need to torque a few things. Ordered too long of shocks the first time around but the second set fits great, Bilstein B8 5100 24-188197. The front has 5" uptravel, 4" droop. Pinion points a touch low (to clear the diff cover/panhard) but a good compromise for keeping 5deg castor and 4.5deg angle between pinion and drive shaft at ride height. Pics are under load at ride height.

edit to correct pics...

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Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Still got clearance between tie rod and the diff cover at full lock?

Yep, this is full lock passenger, where it really gets tight is the tie rod to spring perches, I had to cut them back a bit. Same clearance going full lock driver. Wouldn't work without offset TREs.

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N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Tie rods and aftermarket diff covers really enjoy occupying the same space. That's why I plated the bottom half of my factory cover on my 30 lol

Offset TRE's and heims are dope though.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
What about putting a bend in the trackbar? I had to do that to clear my oil pan at full bump.
Wouldn't be too bad to jog it around the diff cover perhaps.

Definitely an option. I set the axle back enough to get minimal clearance between the diff and panhard, I don't think it looks too off, if I change my mind and it looks funny and I don't like it later I can make a new one as you suggest. Another option would be to not use the factory frame side mount, and push it forward there.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
MJ vs 2000 WJ booster/master cylinder. I'll have to clearance the firewall area on the truck just a bit to get the booster to fit and then grind a flat spot on the peddle mount to move the switch over.
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I also didn't do enough reading before grabbing parts at the junkyard. I assumed that the distribution valve for the XJ and MJ were the same, they are not. A lot of things online say when swapping disks onto the back of an XJ it helps a lot to use ZJ proportioning valve spring/internals. So I have no need for the ZJ spring/snout internals I was going to swap in, if anyone wants these let me know and I'll throw them in the mail.

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Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Rear is 99% finished and ready to go under, the soft lines I got take the wrong size banjo bolt so I had to order another pair :rolleyes:.

Rear summary:
  • Ford 8.8 with rebuilt factory LSD out of a '97 Explorer
  • Replaced all seals and bearings
  • Yukon 4.56 r/p
  • Yukon diff cover
  • POR-15 paint
  • Rusty's 4.5" spring under spring pack
  • Bilstein B8 5100 24-185660
  • '21 JT takeoffs w/ adapters
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I trimmed a little bit and got the WJ booster/master fitting well up against the firewall and moved the MJ brake switch over. Also plugged the load sensing port/return/whatever of the proportioning valve and removed that valve from the back end. Next up is snaking the old/unused brake line out and install the axle.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
I still have that NIB 31 spline 8.8 Detroit locker if you like.

Thanks, but I think I'm going to stick with the factory limited slip in the rear and the Truetrac up front for a while and just see how it does. My Dad has a Jeep w/ a detroit in the rear and I'm not a fan of the clicking/noise when street driving; given my goal for this to be a daily driver I don't think I'm going to go that route at this point.

"'21 JT takeoffs w/ adapters" - are these the wheels?

Ya, just some stock wheels/tires off of a 2021 Gladiator w/ 5x4.5 to 5x5 bolt pattern adapters.
 
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