General Tech What did you work on Today?

Drug home the next project last week.

It was living at sea level so it ran pretty crappy up here in the cold.
Checked the Choke and adjusted the hi idle, then set the idle mixture.
Went to check the timing and it had like 34 degrees at idle and the distributor was super loose.
The crappy china chrome holddown was bent and too thin.
Grabbed a stock hold down from the parts bin and of course the starter that had been grinding now refused to engage at all.
Had a brand new crappy full size starter because the previous owner had swapped it twice already.
I had one in the shed for a 99 Vortec 5.7 motor, these all had nice mini starters that work 1000 times better then the old giant models.
Swapped in the new starter and then finally got the timing and idle set again.
Still running pretty lean, I didnt have any springs on hand but clearly it has a super light secondary spring in it now.

Anyway, I can at least drive it around a little while I wait for spring so swap in the 6.0/4l80/241 I have here for it...

Also getting front and rear Deaver springs, Fox Bypasses, new 37's. Parts have been piling up..lol

NYCEGUY01 said:

Drug home the next project last week.

It was living at sea level so it ran pretty crappy up here in the cold.
Checked the Choke and adjusted the hi idle, then set the idle mixture.
Went to check the timing and it had like 34 degrees at idle and the distributor was super loose.
The crappy china chrome holddown was bent and too thin.
Grabbed a stock hold down from the parts bin and of course the starter that had been grinding now refused to engage at all.
Had a brand new crappy full size starter because the previous owner had swapped it twice already.
I had one in the shed for a 99 Vortec 5.7 motor, these all had nice mini starters that work 1000 times better then the old giant models.
Swapped in the new starter and then finally got the timing and idle set again.
Still running pretty lean, I didnt have any springs on hand but clearly it has a super light secondary spring in it now.

Anyway, I can at least drive it around a little while I wait for spring so swap in the 6.0/4l80/241 I have here for it...

Also getting front and rear Deaver springs, Fox Bypasses, new 37's. Parts have been piling up..lol

Click to expand...

Drove by Saturday and saw it parked out front JJ. Looked pretty clean from the street. Should be another fun project.

Finally after 3 months my Twalcom windshield and headlight assembly came from Italy. Luckily the seat concepts seat was only a 3 week wait. I think both these items are really going to make a big difference in the comfort department. Also threw on some carbon heat shields on the exhaust to complement yoshi end cap and seat.

That front end looks good! I really liked that Seat Concepts seat on mine (I have one on my Sled too). Hated the stock one. I karate kicked the stock left blinker off mine the first time I mounted the thing off-road

Looks great. I’m interested in how bright the lights are

rholbrook said:

Looks great. I’m interested in how bright the lights are

Click to expand...

I’ll have to get some riding in and report back. I was worried about light absorption from the tint and curvature on the windshield as well. From what I can tell so far light output is still miles ahead of the stock unit. They are Vision X led so really good output.

They also offer a clear one or a solid black featuring a cut out for the lights. If the lights don’t seem to project good enough I might consider one of those options.

Trate D said:

I’ll have to get some riding in and report back. I was worried about light absorption from the tint and curvature on the windshield as well. From what I can tell so far light output is still miles ahead of the stock unit. They are Vision X led so really good output.

They also offer a clear one or a solid black featuring a cut out for the lights. If the lights don’t seem to project good enough I might consider one of those options.

Click to expand...

I bought the adjustable GIVI windscreen last fall and haven't had a chance to install it. I also installed the Cyclops Auxilary light kit and that works well. I got the yellow lens cover that I pretty much keep on it, even at night if I get caught out in the dark

My daily is going back together after a turbo rebuild.


Passenger's front tire and inner fender removed for access.


Removed the downpipe and prepping to remove both driver's and passenger's up-pipes after allowing to soak with Kroil overnight.


Heat shields, downpipe and passengers' up-pipe removed.


Modified passengers' up-pipe.


Turbo disassembled and discovered the issue was the unison ring seized on the center support. Vanes were in good condition and most were moving freely. Only had 3 that had limited movement.


After chemically and mechanically cleaning the vanes, turbine housing and center support. I could have reused the unison ring but I had purchased a new stainless steel one with the parts so I used it. The center support required a lot of casting cleanup to ensure the same thing doesn't happen again.


Freshly rebuilt with new bearings, 360-degree thrust washer, all new oil control rings and O-rings/seals. Also installed a new hydraulic actuator solenoid while I was this far into it.


Reinstalled back onto the engine along with new coolant hoses connecting the turbo.


New GM exhaust gaskets and all new ARP fasteners to replace the OEM ones. A little nickel anti-seize applied and ready for installation.


Torquing all of the exhaust fasteners to 39 ft/lbs. It's a bit tight but a torque wrench will fit between the cab and heads.






Thanks for looking.

Mike

While I had it apart and with the cooling system opened, I opted to replace the thermostats as well as batteries which were getting some age on them. With the batteries removed I noticed the battery trays looked a little worse than I remember so they received the full treatment, bead blasting and POR-15 before reinstallation.



Bead blasted.


Both trays treated with POR-15 and left hanging to cure.


The battery tray fasteners were also bead blasted and gave a few coats of E-coat primer before reassembling.


Chasing the POR-15 out of the hold down threads.


Air box tray cleaned and reassembled.


Passenger side battery tray reinstalled.


Prepping the upper radiator shroud as well as the duct work. All plastic components were cleaned with Power House before reinstallation.


Air box also received proper cleaning with Power House.


Engine bay completed with all ductwork installed, serpentine belt, upper shroud, cooling system filled and new Deka/East Penn batteries installed.



Thanks for looking.
Mike

1969honda said:

@zmotorsports where are you finding Kroil locally in Ogden? Or are you purchasing it online? I found a source a little over a year ago in the Ogden/West Haven area, made a mental note, then went overseas for 8 months and forgot. 😒🤬

Click to expand...

Last time I bought it was from Motion Industries on 1900 West in West Haven.

@zmotorsports where are you finding Kroil locally in Ogden? Or are you purchasing it online? I found a source a little over a year ago in the Ogden/West Haven area, made a mental note, then went overseas for 8 months and forgot. 😒🤬

Thanks Mike, I deleted my post between your updates and then re-posted so others can enjoy you project updates in successive order. Always a pleasant surprise when you post your work!

1969honda said:

@zmotorsports where are you finding Kroil locally in Ogden? Or are you purchasing it online? I found a source a little over a year ago in the Ogden/West Haven area, made a mental note, then went overseas for 8 months and forgot. 😒🤬

Thanks Mike, I deleted my post between your updates and the re-posted so others can enjoy you project updates in successive order. Always a pleasant surprise when you post your work!

Click to expand...

Thank you. I appreciate the kind words. I enjoy seeing what others are working on and hope others find my projects at least entertaining if not informative.

Mike

Got all the parts I needed to put my snow thrower back together. I had to refer to some of the pictures I took and the diagram I found online, but I got it assembled and found a likely cause of my trashed auger gear.



I had never replaced my scrape plate, and over 11 years of use had worn the plate down to nothing and I was wearing out the bottom of the auger housing. The auger was hitting the ground, which I found, isn't supposed to happen. This likely added tons of stress on the brass gear, eventually leading to the catastrophic failure I experienced.

I ordered a new scrape plate and used my new to me welder to add some more metal to the bottom of the auger housing, and then rivited the new scrape plate in place. I then reassembled the auger blades and impeller on my new drive assembly. I then rejoined the 2 halves of the thrower and and adjusted the wear sliders to align with the new wear plate. The auger is a good 1/2 to 3/4" above the ground now, so I'll be sure to replace the sliders and scrape plate as they wear out to try and save the brass gear.

With everything assembled and adjusted, I fired it up to test it out.


Now I just need some snow to give it a proper test.

For about $350 in parts, I hope it lasts another few years, but worth the risk over $1,800 for a whole new machine.

moab_cj5 said:

Got all the parts I needed to put my snow thrower back together. I had to refer to some of the pictures I took and the diagram I found online, but I got it assembled and found a likely cause of my trashed auger gear.

View attachment 156094

I had never replaced my scrape plate, and over 11 years of use had worn the plate down to nothing and I was wearing out the bottom of the auger housing. The auger was hitting the ground, which I found, isn't supposed to happen. This likely added tons of stress on the brass gear, eventually leading to the catastrophic failure I experienced.

I ordered a new scrape plate and used my new to me welder to add some more metal to the bottom of the auger housing, and then rivited the new scrape plate in place. I then reassembled the auger blades and impeller on my new drive assembly. I then rejoined the 2 halves of the thrower and and adjusted the wear sliders to align with the new wear plate. The auger is a good 1/2 to 3/4" above the ground now, so I'll be sure to replace the sliders and scrape plate as they wear out to try and save the brass gear.

With everything assembled and adjusted, I fired it up to test it out.

Now I just need some snow to give it a proper test.

For about $350 in parts, I hope it lasts another few years, but worth the risk over $1,800 for a whole new machine.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure how you set your wear plate but I like to keep it just off the concrete so it gets the snow but doesn't actually scrape along the concrete as it's more prone to catching cracks/seams. The process I use it so raise the side shoes up and then adjust the scrape plate down so it barely contacts the smooth and level shop floor and tighten it in place. I then place a piece of cardboard under the full width of the scrape plate and adjust the side shoes down to where they contact the shop floor. When doing this set the scrape plate down onto the cardboard gently to keep a small gap vs. dropping the plate onto the cardboard.

I do this adjustment as part of my post-season preventive maintenance routine in the spring so it is ready to go come winter and then during a normal winter snowfall year I'll double check after half a dozen uses but this year alone I've already had to adjust mine a bit more due to side shoe wear.

NYCEGUY01 said:

Drug home the next project last week.

It was living at sea level so it ran pretty crappy up here in the cold.
Checked the Choke and adjusted the hi idle, then set the idle mixture.
Went to check the timing and it had like 34 degrees at idle and the distributor was super loose.
The crappy china chrome holddown was bent and too thin.
Grabbed a stock hold down from the parts bin and of course the starter that had been grinding now refused to engage at all.
Had a brand new crappy full size starter because the previous owner had swapped it twice already.
I had one in the shed for a 99 Vortec 5.7 motor, these all had nice mini starters that work 1000 times better then the old giant models.
Swapped in the new starter and then finally got the timing and idle set again.
Still running pretty lean, I didnt have any springs on hand but clearly it has a super light secondary spring in it now.

Anyway, I can at least drive it around a little while I wait for spring so swap in the 6.0/4l80/241 I have here for it...

Also getting front and rear Deaver springs, Fox Bypasses, new 37's. Parts have been piling up..lol

Click to expand...

That's a rad Blazer! 73?

zmotorsports said:

My daily is going back together after a turbo rebuild.


Passenger's front tire and inner fender removed for access.
View attachment 156049

Removed the downpipe and prepping to remove both driver's and passenger's up-pipes after allowing to soak with Kroil overnight.
View attachment 156050

Heat shields, downpipe and passengers' up-pipe removed.
View attachment 156051

Modified passengers' up-pipe.
View attachment 156052

Turbo disassembled and discovered the issue was the unison ring seized on the center support. Vanes were in good condition and most were moving freely. Only had 3 that had limited movement.
View attachment 156053

After chemically and mechanically cleaning the vanes, turbine housing and center support. I could have reused the unison ring but I had purchased a new stainless steel one with the parts so I used it. The center support required a lot of casting cleanup to ensure the same thing doesn't happen again.
View attachment 156054

Freshly rebuilt with new bearings, 360-degree thrust washer, all new oil control rings and O-rings/seals. Also installed a new hydraulic actuator solenoid while I was this far into it.
View attachment 156055

Reinstalled back onto the engine along with new coolant hoses connecting the turbo.
View attachment 156057

New GM exhaust gaskets and all new ARP fasteners to replace the OEM ones. A little nickel anti-seize applied and ready for installation.
View attachment 156058

Torquing all of the exhaust fasteners to 39 ft/lbs. It's a bit tight but a torque wrench will fit between the cab and heads.
View attachment 156059





Thanks for looking.

Mike

Click to expand...

Why did you have to mod the passenger side up pipe?

I worked on this today:



I’ve been pretty under the weather for a month now, and this was quite an accomplishment, frankly.

bryson said:

That's a rad Blazer! 73?




Why did you have to mod the passenger side up pipe?

Click to expand...

To keep it appearing OEM.

Threw this contraption together today so I could use drill batteries to power a headlamp.

24v battery to USB adapter.
Old USB cord soldered to the original battery cord. (8.4v max output) (this garbage battery pack had one fake battery cell in the pack of 4! And crapped out after maybe 3 or 4 uses).

Then mounted a GoPro mount to the 5 (advertised as T6 cree) LED light, so I can helmet mount it.


Cheaper than $100 OXbow setup (that only runs for 3hrs max)
And with a 6AH 24v drill battery I aught to be able to run the light for at least a half dozen hours at max power (1200 lm advertised: maybe 650-850 truly @ 5v).

zmotorsports said:

I'm not sure how you set your wear plate but I like to keep it just off the concrete so it gets the snow but doesn't actually scrape along the concrete as it's more prone to catching cracks/seams. The process I use it so raise the side shoes up and then adjust the scrape plate down so it barely contacts the smooth and level shop floor and tighten it in place. I then place a piece of cardboard under the full width of the scrape plate and adjust the side shoes down to where they contact the shop floor. When doing this set the scrape plate down onto the cardboard gently to keep a small gap vs. dropping the plate onto the cardboard.

I do this adjustment as part of my post-season preventive maintenance routine in the spring so it is ready to go come winter and then during a normal winter snowfall year I'll double check after half a dozen uses but this year alone I've already had to adjust mine a bit more due to side shoe wear.

Click to expand...

I put the wear plate in roughly the spot it would have been before I wore it away. Then, after I had the whole machine back together, I adjusted the shoes to flat with the ground. I like your idea of putting cardboard under the scrape plate to help keep it slightly elevated and adjust more than once every 11 years... I will certainly be watching that more closely going forward.

I’ve got a vacant unit that I am signing contract on tomorrow. It needs a smoke alarm and a shower head. Figured I’d just knock that out tonight. 10-15 minutes tops. Give it a quick over to make sure it looks presentable.

Hit the Home Depot, grab parts, head to the condo.

Get them installed, but when testing the shower head I see that the tub diverter is bad, leaking and missing the top of the stem.

Back to Home Depot. Grab parts and head back to the condo.

Get the diverter installed. Works great. Take a celebratory pee, notice that the toilet tank is cracked and leaking on the floor behind the toilet 🤬

Pull the toilet off, see that the flange is rotted/rusted.

Toss toilet in dumpster, head BACK to Home Depot again.

MADE SURE to buy every part to every problem I can imagine. Extra toilet bolts, upgraded wax ring, supply line, new toilet flange, Bolts to hold new flange.. EVERYTHING.

Back to the condo, haul in toilet and parts. (Mind you, it’s like 50 yards from parking to front door, 4 flights of stairs)

Back to the truck for drill to screw new toilet flange down. No battery in the drill. 🤦🏼‍♂️
No worries, grab it from radio.. no battery.
From the fan? No battery. From the tool box of extra drill bits and batteries.. MISSING!

🤬🤬WTF!!!🤬🤬 the box and all my batteries are in the other truck from a different project I did last week.

Call the wife, get batteries on the way.

*batteries arrive*

Install toilet flange.

Ready the toilet bowl, and Realize I bought the WRONG wax ring.
These units are prone to water leaks, so I am extra paranoid. Worth the trip back to the Home Depot for the right one.

New wax ring is missing the bolts.. but no worry, I’ve got like 3 sets sitting here now 🤣

Install bowl, tank, supply line.

5 hours and $350 later, 10 minute project done.

By a rental property. They are awesome.