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I did triangulated uppers, but I have a 3" body lift so I made new motor mounts to raise the drivetrain. If you have a body lift you might think about it. It looks cool because now everything is above the frame rails, even the oil pan!

If all you're doing is swapping the shafts, I'd say you did it right. Those shafts will not require the grinding I mentioned before.

Not to make it more confusing but, you may have to grind the inside of the axle housing (inside the knuckle ball)to make room for the longfield axles in the other axle housing. Doesn't usually require much.

I know I've seen some on rigs that look just like Currie's but can't remember the manufactures name.

Who else is making swaybar kits like currie's antirock system?

Done Thanks 667 Rockers!

We all thought about it! Chris and I wanted to do it pretty bad, mabey next time.

Cool, Wolf Creek Pass got 30" this weekend!

Good info, thanks. I will be using full hydro steering so a drag link will not be an issue, the upper links fit with plenty of room on the sides of the motor, I'm just not sure about the distance between the link mounts and the oil pan, don't think it will be enough room. If anyone can show me...

The question I have for the front setup with triangulated uppers and straight lowers, does the vertical sepperation matter as much in the front as the rear? Lets say at the axle end there is 8" and at the frame there is only 1 or 2". The lower link mounts on the outside of the frame and the...

It's a 22re, but I have a lot of gearing. I sure hope I don't get wheel hop, that is the reason I got rid of leaf springs. Drove me crazy :ugh:

It makes sense, my mind has been boggled since I started researching all this in the first place. From a side profile of the truck it looks like my intersecting lines will be almost at the top of the front section of the bellhousing. I thought that was close to what I was supposed to be aiming...

Why? Should the vertical seperation be more equal at each end? Or does it have something to do with the uppers being longer than the lowers?

This is what I have to work with on the front. Dana 60 with SFW truss system and integrated ram mount. I have 46" or less links to work with. I was thinking triangulated uppers inside the frame rails, and slightly angled lowers outside the frame rail. Shorter uppers should get me closer to a 40...

Here are some pics of the rear. This is a Toyota frame and a 14 bolt. The lowers probably won't be as level as I thought after establishing a higher ride hieght. Vertical seperation at the axles is 9" and 4.5" at the frame. There is 3-4" of adjustment at either end.

Good things to consider. I figure there might be 6" between oilpan and link mounts. I think bumpstops might prevent damage during flex, but a hard hit or a slight jump could send it straight into the oilpan?

I always have trouble posting pics on this site because they're either to big, or it tells me a security token is missing? But I will try again later.

So now I'm on to the the front 4 link setup. It will pretty much be the same design as the rear with triangulated uppers and straighter lowers, but the frame is much narrower if the front, so I won't have 45 degrees on the uppers. Any suggestions or tips would be appreciated!

So I just went for it today, the upper links are 46", and the lowers are 40". I pointed the pinion right at the t-case, and with everything tacked together cycled the suspension. I was surprised that the pinion angle did not really change at all! I could see how you could make the uppers...

They are not upside down, but I can't figure out how to make them shorter when just the upper links are triangulated. What is the drawback of this setup?