moabjeep77
Registered User
- Location
- West Valley City, UT
Does Anybody have a tool kit to put these connectors together?
Last edited:
Weatherpack connectors?
- Thread starter moabjeep77
- Start date
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
There's not really a kit for these. A racheting crimp tool that crimps the terminal to both the jacket/boot and the wire at the same time is nice to have, but it can be done with standard crimpers. Either way, I like to solder the wire to the terminal. Once you get the terminal attached to the wire just push the terminal through the back of the housing until it clicks in place. To remove them you need the barrel style removal tool that slides in the housing and pushes all the tabs together on the terminal, then the terminal can be slid out.
I have all these items if you want to build some. Get a few extra terminals so you can practice the crimping before crimping your important ones. It's a bit of an art, I think.
I have all these items if you want to build some. Get a few extra terminals so you can practice the crimping before crimping your important ones. It's a bit of an art, I think.
moabjeep77
Registered User
- Location
- West Valley City, UT
Ok thanks UNSTUCK. I'll be in touch.
lhracing
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Layton, UT
The correct tooling can get expensive and each manufacture and product line has their own crimpers. Here is a link to some of the WeatherPack parts and tools.
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/20/Weather-Pack-Connectors/
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/20/Weather-Pack-Connectors/
Panos
12Volt Specialist
- Location
- Salt lake City
I get mine from intermountain electric if I need it today. Otherwise its ordered from waytek, also I have the crimpers if you need
moabjeep77
Registered User
- Location
- West Valley City, UT
moabjeep77
Registered User
- Location
- West Valley City, UT
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
What is that connector end up going to? On a higher amp load it will quickly corrode and break again. If it's a low voltage reference signal (VSS or Fuel gauge perhaps), that connection will cause the wrong data to be sent. Either way, an open butt-connector is not the way to make that repair. At minimum it should have been a heat shinkable but connector if it's a 12 volt circuit. But I'm guessing one would not have fit. Or solder and shrink wrap a low voltage circuit. Why not remove the terminal inside the connector and simply crimp on a new terminal to the existing wire? No need to replace everything.
moabjeep77
Registered User
- Location
- West Valley City, UT
UNSTUCK, that is the connector that connects the fuel pump/sending unit together. The picture is of how I found it taped up like that, so I un taped it and found the butt connector.