Bobs New CJ Build Thread

I bought my current CJ7 in 1989. I have been modifying and wheeling it ever since. It is very reliable (the thing just never breaks) and goes most places I want to take it, but for the last decade or more it has been at a big disadvantage when running with modern rock crawling buggys and built Jeeps. The wheelbase is pretty maxed out at 98". I could not go longer without major modifications. Also, the width is stock widetrack CJ (56 or 57"). A year or so ago I decided to build a new Jeep rather than hack mine up. I was thinking bobbed CJ8 Aqualu body on a new frame. I found a set of 1ton Chevy axles and started building them up. While checking out my options for a frame I came across this http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/11537/WOD-Jeep-Chassis.aspx and my plans changed.

So here is the plan.
Four link front and rear. 14" Fox 2.5" coil overs.
110-112" wheelbase.
Dana 60 front, 5.38, Detroit, RCV shafts, Reid knuckles, Artec truss with ram mount, Artec double sheer arms, PSC 2.75" double ended ram, EMF links and homemade tie rods built from 1.5" .500" wall DOM.
14Bolt rear, 5.38, Detroit, shaved with TMR Customs kit, Artec truss, disc brake conversion.
525hp LS3
TH400
Atlas T/C (still undecided on ratio)
Aqualu CJ7 body

It will be able to run a full top. I want heat and may even look into A/C using a Vintage Air setup if at all possible. Crawling is what I like best but hopefully this thing will be OK with going fast also.

I am starting this thread mostly because I have never tackled a project of this magnitude and I welcome any ideas, help or criticism.

A month ago this showed up.

I had no idea WOD was making that thing. That is really really cool. In fact, that's pretty much exactly the idea I was going for with my Willys build--all tube sandwiching a tub. (although yours will be done first, and nicer)

The axles have been complete for a while. A quick rundown.
I milled off the bottom of the 14bolt, and turned down the ring gear.

I cut slots in an old oven so the axle could slide in. The pumpkin was heated to 500 and I welded the plate on with nickel 55 rod. The axle was put back into the oven and the temperature slowly lowered over an 8 hour period. I then used a Metalax machine to stress relieve the casting. I think the Metalax is very expensive snake oil, but I had access to it so why not. The rest of the axle is pretty standard stuff with a few minor different things. I could not get a perfect pattern on the Yukon gears using the standard available pinion shims. I had to trim the pinion support a few thousandths. While I was at it we cut a grove for an Oring to seal the support. I don't know if leakage is a problem but it seemed to me like it might be.
I also installed a crush sleeve eliminator kit and used ARP studs for the bearing caps.

I Lean said:

I had no idea WOD was making that thing. That is really really cool. In fact, that's pretty much exactly the idea I was going for with my Willys build--all tube sandwiching a tub. (although yours will be done first, and nicer)

Click to expand...

Hope fully I can hire you for a few things on this project. PM me your number and a good time to call I'd like to discuss it with you. Mine probably won't be done first. It is going to be very slow.

A few pics of the front.

bobdog said:

Hope fully I can hire you for a few things on this project. PM me your number and a good time to call I'd like to discuss it with you. Mine probably won't be done first. It is going to be very slow.

Click to expand...

I started mine in 2009, and haven't made any progress in a couple years. PM'd ya.

The first thing I want to get done is the suspension. One thing I knew is that I wanted to run large EMF joints. This caused the first annoyance of the project. Wide Open Design sets up their link brackets with 2 3/8" wide space and a 1" through hole. They would not work with me at all on anything different. After talking with Clay at EMF I decided it would be best to run 2 5/8 wide brackets with a 3/4" through hole. I had Wide Open just tack the link mounts in place so that I could modify them.
I had a machinist at work program his lathe and whip me out16 of these.

They are a slight press fit into the brackets. After welding I think they will work fine.
I just have to move one side of the brackets over 1/4" and finish installing the reducer bushings and it should be good to go.

The Joints were ordered a month ago hopefully I don't have to wait as long as I did for the steering joints (4months) but they are worth the wait anyway.

For links I have probably read and thought too much about it. Aluminum vs DOM vs chromoly. I decided on 4130 chromoly. The only issues I read about were inserts pulling out. Since I am running large EMFs I ordered 1.5" shank joints. After a fairly difficult search I bought a stick of 2"X .375"wall 4130. I will just tap the tube to size and will not need to weld in inserts. The links will be heat treated when complete. This should be about as strong a link set up as any.

Thanks for posting this build. I've always been a fan of your excellent and clean work.

I love seeing this Bob, it's been a long time coming! Your attention to detail and high-caliber work are already showing, thanks for starting the build thread... I'm looking forward to seeing this one progress!

2 5/8 spacer to set link bracket length.

1 almost done. I need to cut new wider gussets for the center.

That is a great looking kit chassis and love the concept. Subscribed.

I love this build. Thought about doing similar myself. Curious how it turns out for you

Thats pretty trick all the flanges on that chassis to sandwich a tub. And that face mill your using on the 14b Mmmmmmm feed me metal NOM NOM!

Excellent execution.

Subscribed.

Mike.

Looks great so far!

You can imagine how much work goes into building a kit cage like that. Very cool. Watching this.

Awesome build.

Subscribed! Looks like a great build project...