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Question for the Johnny Joint gurus

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Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
I have tried contacting currie multiple times with no answer, so I'll ask you guys. I have johnny joints on my upper arms on my cherokee and the frame mount bolt holes are wallowed out some. I want to put new pivot balls in the joint with a larger 1/2" bolt size. The part# for the joints I have now is CE-9112NSP. I found two options for replacement center balls, but I don't know which to pick. Also my joint is a narrow housing, will that have any effect on which center ball I need? Here are links to all three parts I'm looking at:

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-91122B

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-91122D

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9112NSP

Thanks for any input you have.
 
BCGPER

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Have you considered just welding the correct washer to the mount and running what you have? That's what I've always done on my XJ's.
 
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Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
I like the idea of having a larger bolt for piece of mind. I also don't think I could weld a washer to the inside of the frame location.
 
bryson

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
The only difference between the two center balls you linked is the cross-drilled hole for grease (the pics in one of the links is incorrect, because both are shown with cross-drilled holes.)

If your joints are greasable from the joint housing like the one you linked then you don't need the cross-drilled hole, as all it would do is allow grease into the through-hole for the bolt. If your joints are not greasable like the one in the link, and you have drilled bolts with grease zerks, then you need the cross drilled ball to allow grease from the bolt to enter the joint cavity.

Basically, if you have:

-Greasable bolts like the pic below, you need the cross-drilled ball.
CUR-CE91127_ml.jpg


If you have:

-Regular bolts and greasable joints, you don't need the cross-drilled ball.
 
thenag

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
bryson said:
The only difference between the two center balls you linked is the cross-drilled hole for grease (the pics in one of the links is incorrect, because both are shown with cross-drilled holes.)

If your joints are greasable from the joint housing like the one you linked then you don't need the cross-drilled hole, as all it would do is allow grease into the through-hole for the bolt. If your joints are not greasable like the one in the link, and you have drilled bolts with grease zerks, then you need the cross drilled ball to allow grease from the bolt to enter the joint cavity.

Basically, if you have:

-Greasable bolts like the pic below, you need the cross-drilled ball.
View attachment 105811


If you have:

-Regular bolts and greasable joints, you don't need the cross-drilled ball.
Click to expand...

That is good info, my Clayton kit has one greesable bolt on it, good to know it needs a different ball center if I ever have issues.

Thanks

Nathan
 
T

Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
Thanks for the info. I do have the greaseable housings. Do you guys think the narrow housing will make a difference on the pivot ball?
 
bryson

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
I think that either ball you linked will work in your narrow housing. From Currie's page for both the drilled and the non-drilled balls you linked:

"This is the ball center for use in all Currie 2" diameter Johnny Joint® rod ends."
 
T

Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
Alright thanks. That's what I was leaning towards. Hopefully this will alleviate the noisy popping coming from the passenger side.
 
bryson

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Usually, popping is due to improperly sized (too small) or loose bolts. Cracked mounting brackets will sometimes make popping sounds too.
 
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