Jeep 2006 LJ front end Conversion from 2004 Grand Cherokee parts

Seeing Carl didn't do a write up when he did this same conversion I told him I would do one... so a month or two ago when my track bar ripped off the axle I had Carl make all the parts for me to convert mine to the same as his TJ. He welded on the brackets to mount the track bar above the axle and gusseted my upper control arm mount on the passenger side and made the track bar. He also welded up the knuckles with the brackets need to mount the TJ/LJ unibearing, along with reaming out all the ends for the one ton joints. He then made the new draglink and tie rod bar going between the two knuckles.


Today I started around 11am and did a quick tear down of the front end.


This is where I started. I took both LJ knuckles off and removed the lower ball joints from both sides and inserted the new Grand ball joints that I got from RockAuto (parts list will follow at the end). They have a grease zerk fitting that goes on top but the yokes will hit it so I found some car interior plastic screws (couldn't find a 1/4-28 screw that was short enough to fill the hole) and after filling the ball joint with grease I inserted the plastic screws. Picture doesn't show the plastic screw.



I had to cut the old sway bar mount off and part of the spring mount to make room for the new bars...



after putting the grands new knuckles on and inserting the unibearing and axle shafts I got to work drilling the new rotors for the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. I used a 5/8 drill bit and found that when I put the rotor on it was hitting the raised portion of the lugs so I had to make a step on the back side to clear the lug. I used a step bit to do this.



once I had the rotors on I started to install the caliper brackets and found that the brake shield was sticking out to far and had to tap it back in towards the rotor to make room.



the bracket was too close on the outer side and the brake pad clips where rubbing on the rotor so I installed some fender washers between the bracket and knuckle and it moved it out just far enough that the clips no longer rub.

I installed the calipers and new brake pads but still have not cut the brake hose over to the new calipers yet due to I had to run to the orielly's in Murray to get new brake clips seeing I lost them on one of the calipers.



drivers side

Passenger side




Tomorrow I will connect the brake lines and bleed the brakes then install the drag link and the steering bar along with the new pitman arm that I got.

I will also do the parts list with part number and where I got them with a price.

Some tools you will need for this job are as follows:
Ball joint press
33mm socket for the pitman nut
pitman arm removal tool
36mm socket for the axle shaft nuts
a long breaker bar for those stubborn nuts, I did use air tools but but removing the lower ball joint I couldn't get the air gun under it so had to use the breaker bar.
I bought a break bleeding gun you really don't need this but it will help alot!
18mm socket
3/4 socket
5/8 socket
9/16 socket
1/2-12 point socket (unibearing bolts)
7/8 socket
22mm socket

GM one ton tierod ends where bought off ebay from "greatautodeals"
Pitman arm was bought off Amazon from internet-sales.

ES2234R Tie Rod 7/8-18 $19.99
ES2234L Tie Rod 7/8-18 $19.99
EX23434L Tie Rod w/jam nut and insert for tube $24.99
EX23434R Tie Rod w/jam nut and insert for tube $24.99

J5352278 Crown Auto pitman arm $36.79

Brake parts from Rockauto.com
CENTRIC 22767042L C-TEK Sport Drilled/Slotted Disc $38.99
CENTRIC 22767042R C-TEK Sport Drilled/Slotted Disc $38.99
MEVOTECH MK3185 {#K3185} Supreme lower ball joints $28.99 each

WJ knuckles w/calipers and brackets where stolen from a junk yard at the remarkable price of just $50 for everything!

all the tubing and gussets and brackets you will have to beg Carl for... look at his old post and it shows the parts....

I'm leaning towards going this way. Putting off servicing my Currie setup, for now, because I think I'd rather do this, but probably won't have the cash until next spring.

One thing I've wondered, though, is whether there will be any packaging gotchas with only 3" of lift but not much bumpstop extension? I know Carl isn't running a ton of lift, so "think" mine would be okay, but mine does sit deceptively low - the highline makes it look bigger than it really is - and it has a lot of uptravel for a TJ on 3" and 35's too.

- DAA

I am running 4 inch of lift on mine. and if I remember right Carl is running 3-4 as well. when I finish up today I will look at what difference a 3 inch lift will have and make note of it.

Good stuff! Thanks for the write up

Nice write up!

Have you gotten it finished up and driven it yet?

yes I did... I take it in to get the alignment today... I just forgot to post the final pictures.. I also need to replace the brake lines and get them bleed again.

It works great! THanks Carl

Glad you're back on the road again.

Thanks for the right up. I have a few of the parts needed for this mod. With Carl's write up and this there is no excuse not to. Thanks for the pics.

One thing I noticed when working on John's rig, is that the stock swaybar gets a lot closer to the new track bar bracket than I'd like. It is not an issue at all with an aftermarket swaybar like my Teraflex one, since the arms are straight. John, have you noticed any rubbing where your swaybar curves toward the frame on the driver's side?

Whats the benefit of this? Are the GC parts beefier?

nnnnnate said:

Whats the benefit of this? Are the GC parts beefier?

Click to expand...

Beefier brakes, but the main benefit is the different steering setup. The factory XJ/TJ/ZJ steering is an inverted Y setup, this way you get a "normal" tie rod and separate drag link.

https://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?110451-WJ-knuckles-on-a-TJ