Bullet proof Dodge steering upgrade

So, anybody that drives a Dodge truck (particularly a 2nd gen - '94-'02) knows how sucky the steering setup is. Most trucks have the inverted "Y" setup similar to most coil spring Jeeps. Stupid design. Your toe changes infinitely as your height changes, so your alignment is different depending on how much weight you are carrying at any given time. I have been wanting to upgrade mine for as long as I've owned the truck, so I finally decided to give it a shot.

Mopar sells an upgrade kit that is listed to fit only '03+ trucks, and the package includes all linkage that comes factory on the '09-'10 trucks. The parts are ginormous (1.5" dia. SOLID tie rod!) and it is an inverted "T" setup (read: tie rod is solid between the knuckles - no more variable toe!) Everyone told me not to bother trying to put it on my 2001 Ram 2500, but I rarely listen to advice. So I went to the dealership and bought the kit - Mopar # 52122362AF - List price is $350, but if you're a U4 member it's much cheaper!

Cool part - It all BOLTED ON with absolutely no modifications! Tie rod and drag link fit flawlessly.

It should fit all '01-'02 2500-3500 trucks with no mods, and will fit '94-'00 trucks, but you likely need to have a reamer handy to enlarge the holes in the pitman arm and knuckles (they're soft metal, so it's cake with a sharp reamer.) I may be a bit off on the years, so an easy way to tell if it'll bolt on to your truck is to measure the thread diameter on the tie-rod stud - if it is 14mm then you're set! If you have a 2003 or newer with the inverted "Y" steering, this is a huge bolt-on upgrade for you as well!

The kit came with a bracket to fit a stock-style shimmy shock, but my truck had a Skycrapper stabilizer on it, and I didn't want to bother adapting it to fit, so I just removed the bracket and didn't run a stabilizer. Gave it a tape measure alignment (1/4" of toe-in measured from the front and back of 35" tires) and straightened the steering wheel...

Test drove it last night (100+ miles, ~20 on dirt) and it drove sweet! Of course I had to test out my new KORE front springs, and Bilsteins too.

For less than $300, and an hour max to install, I think this setup is impossible to beat! It's super huge, and you don't have to worry about bending tube to clear the diff, and using noisy heims on your steering.

Do it!

I need to do this unless I end up selling my truck. What track-bar are you using as well?

Herzog said:

I need to do this unless I end up selling my truck. What track-bar are you using as well?

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I have an aftermarket bracket that allows the use of a stock, off the shelf 2003+ trackbar. It has bushings at both ends - no more crappy tie-rod end on the track bar.

Bracket - http://www.solidsteel.biz/tbk.htm

I just bought a new t-bar from the dealer as well.

I'll have to check out my '04 and see what pile of steering I have on there.

Ha that whole thread that drew posted I told him to do this months ago when he was having death wobble issues.

I just did this (bout a month ago) on my 05 and it made a big difference! Source Automotive also sells the setup with the TRE tapped with zirks as well. I'm hoping that once I get the steering brace it'll be like driving a normal vehicle.

05 2500 CTD
4.5 Fabtech Lift
35s
90k miles

I've heard that a few people are skeptical that the tapers match... As was I at first. But I did my homework, and took very careful measurements, and the tapers are indeed the same. It was verified with digital calipers, feel, sight... I even went as far as using gear marking compound to make sure there was even engagement along the entire length of the taper. And I took pics.

Note that for the pictures, I put a thin coat of gear marking compound inside the tapered hole only - I did not put any on the rod end itself. The rod end was inserted into the taper until it bottomed out, and then pulled straight out. Looks like a nice match to me. The funny marks at the top of the tapered hole are where the rod end threads bumped it as it came out.

The older trucks (pre '99 maybe?) have a different size/taper for the tie rod end, but the newer 2nd gens and all 3rd gens have the bigger version. The 98-99 HD steering is probably the best "bolt on" setup for the older 2nd gens, but it still doesn't compare in size and strength to the 09-10 steering that could be installed with an easy re-taper job on the knuckles and pitman arm.

I have an '06 2500 that really needs the new steering upgrade. The freeway death wobble is not so cool. The only question I have before I order parts is that on some of the forums I ran across while researching this, people are saying you have to have the new pitman arm. A few people are saying it doesn't matter. Did you guys use your stock pitman arm? I have about 3 inches of lift on my truck and I'm still running the stock pitman.

Also, what are you Dodge guys running for ball joints? My stockers are completely shot at 67k miles. I really don't want to keep replacing them so the Carli's are looking nice, but are kind spendy at $800. The Dynatracs look decent as well and are a little more affordable at $600. Any other options that are stronger than stock?

Corey i swapped mine out for some ones i bought at checker's or napa (my memory sucks i cant remember) that are made for lifted trucks i did that 30 thousand ago and they are still tight as can be i only spent $250, im runnin 37x 14.50,

Now i have the steering upgrade, dual shocks and all that fancy stuff, i just had a front end alignment done and it still pulls to the left any ideas?

quote
So, anybody that drives a Dodge truck (particularly a 2nd gen - 94-02) knows how sucky the steering setup is. Most trucks have the inverted "Y" setup similar to most coil spring Jeeps. Stupid design. Your toe changes infinitely as your height changes, so your alignment is different depending on how much weight you are carrying at any given time. I have been wanting to upgrade mine for as long as I've owned the truck, so I finally decided to give it a shot.

Mopar sells an upgrade kit that is listed to fit only 03+ trucks, and the package includes all linkage that comes factory on the 09-10 trucks. The parts are ginormous (1.5" dia. SOLID tie rod!) and it is an inverted "T" setup (read: tie rod is solid between the knuckles - no more variable toe!) Everyone told me not to bother trying to put it on my 2001 Ram 2500, but I rarely listen to advice. So I went to the dealership and bought the kit - Mopar # 52122362AF - List price is $350, but if you're a U4 member it's much cheaper!
end quote

How do I get this U4 discount? show my card? when one shows up.

So is this upgrade kit basically what comes standard on the 2010's?

I bought upgrade from Source Automotive...

http://sourceautomotive.biz/2003-2009dodgeupgradedsteeringlinkage.aspx

They were great! For $375, you can order the setup with greasable zirks. I have a 4.5" lift on my truck, so I kept my lowered pitman arm. But if you are at stock or leveled, you will also need the new pitman arm. I can't remember the part #, but when I called Dodge, it was $75

Even after Les Schwab forgot to tighten the adjuster section on my drag link when they aligned the truck, and the pitman arm rod end was destroyed, Source Automotive sent just the rod end section to me fast and cheap with free shipping. They are great guys to work with. Even called after each order to make sure everything went on OK.

I definitely suggest Source Automotive and also suggest NOT using Les Schwab! They about killed me and wouldn't pay for the rod end.

As far as Ball Joints... I used XRF joints.

http://www.xrfchassis.com/

I talked to a guy at Carli before they had their own uppers and they said they used XRF. They have a million mile warranty and sell most of their joints to the military and logging companies. When I called and asked how long they last, he told me that most trucks they go on only see highway from the dealership to where the helicopter picks it up and takes it into the forest. Sounds good enough for me. I've had em for about 20k miles and they have been great. Also bout the same price as Moogs.

mesha said:

quote

How do I get this U4 discount? show my card? when one shows up.

Click to expand...

I will turn this over to our membership chairman, you should hear from him soon. If not let me know and I will expedite. I agree a 10% discount is worth it.

I did this same 09-10 factory conversion on my 2001 Ram 2500. The only mod I had to make was to cut off the hex at the top of the ball stud at the knuckle ends. I have the 16" rims, so the end just barely rubbed the inside of my factory 16's. I think this is why you don't see Mopar listing this as a usable number for the late model gen 2's. Now on to the XRF ball joints.

Thanks for the idea Bryson!

I got this to work on a 98 so, it should go on 94-00 also. It is FAR FROM BOLT ON though. It took a lot of thinking and a bit of fab work.

The truck this went on had a hub conversion, custom built track bar, ball joints and this tie rod setup done all in one shot . I have not been behind the wheel of a Dodge that drives as well as this one. I will be doing this to mine soon.

i did the hd 98 style steering on my 2000 and it works great but the tie rod hits the diff cover, i guess they make a different cover with a recess at that spot, does that newer style bend around the dif to avoid this?

guapotaco said:

does that newer style bend around the dif to avoid this?

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Yes it does.

I put this mod on my 2002 yesterday. Bolted right up EXCEPT the studs didn't clear my 16" factory aluminum wheels. At least not before 5 minutes of love from a sawzall and a file. Left plenty of room for the 10mm wrench if necessary to remove. Drove it 7 miles to Firestone and had them align it. Driving around town was great and I can't wait to see how it does going down the freeway.

logdogsmith said:

I put this mod on my 2002 yesterday. Bolted right up EXCEPT the studs didn't clear my 16" factory aluminum wheels. At least not before 5 minutes of love from a sawzall and a file. Left plenty of room for the 10mm wrench if necessary to remove. Drove it 7 miles to Firestone and had them align it. Driving around town was great and I can't wait to see how it does going down the freeway.

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Nice! Glad to see it was easy to make the 16's fit! When I did it on mine, I had 17" wheels, so I never tried it with the stockers.

I have a front end problem that has been fixed but I think they double charged me because they did work that should have been covered by one of two recalls. This is the rejection they sent me and where do I send a reply for additional review.


Case #: 24685945
VIN: 1D7KS28C26J138094
Vehicle Description: DODGE RAM 2500 SLT QUAD CAB 4X4

March 27, 2014 Mr. J. Johnston, Writer advised that Customer requested to have factory original equipment replaced due to wandering. LARRY H MILLER CHRYSLER JEEP service department used the only parts they had available, which was the steering upgrade kit 52122362AJ, SM did confirm that Customer required all the other parts in the kit. SM did know he had to replace the Outer Tie Rod ends as they would be under recall N62 for replacement/service parts. SM did charge for the service of installing suspension kit, and the part. SM did not charge for the replacement of the Outer Tie Rod ends when Customer re-visited 02/26/2014. N62 recall is on replacement or service parts not on factory original equipment Regards, Charlene Customer Service Representative

Note: This is a system generated message. Please do not reply.

Sincerely,CHARLENECustomer Assistance Center