Do I bother you?
What I did to get the lift I wanted was use the three spring pack. For the front mount I just collapsed and bought the budbuilt mount. Very clean. For the rear though I cut the old mount off and welded a 6-8" piece of 2" square tubing in. Then welded the old shackle mount onto that. I am running an 8" eye to eye shackle at a 45* angle loaded. Works out very nice. I have the shocks relocated in a /\ form to the crossmember, but plan on changing axels and cutting the stock crossmember off and making a new one that is perfectly verticle of the axel and made out of square to have many mounting holes for the shocks. Pics of my swap can be found Here
Originally Posted by crimsonride
So why do I drive a toy again?
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I have a 79 yota that has the exact or similar set you had before your swap. I wish to do the swap but I have already shortened the frame all the way up to the shackle mount in the rear. My question is what would happen if I put a regular shackle in the rear and moved the front mount forward enough. Would all I need to do is shorten the driveshaft?
Originally Posted by Greg
the tire will also be stuffed into the front of the wheel well and you'll need to cut out some wheel well. It can be done but probably a pita and not what you really want. Less wheel base, and the same long back end hanging out that you wanted to eliminate when you cut off the back of the frame. If I were you, I'd either extend the frame out until it's long enough for your shackle mount, or use different, shorter springs. I'm sure somebody else can chime in with the other options of shorter springs that are out there.....
"I tell my wife that something will be getting ridden hard and she can choose what or who that will be. She says not to let the door hit me in the ass on my way out. Try it." -Rholbrook
Originally Posted by MyYota79
After I ditched the double shackle, I was using the shackle mount in the stock location. I had to use a long shackle, 11" long IIRC and it sat at a 45* angle. It worked, but stuck out there pretty far. The important thing about moving the spring location, if you do it, is not to move the axle location.
Like mentioned above, you could use a shorter spring. I think the GM 56" springs should be similar to the 63" springs.
Thought I'd add a little info...
I ordered most of my stuff from sky manufacturing. 7" shackles eye to eye, I put the front mount 11" forward from stock, I got a 45 degree by mounting my shackle hangers just behind the stock ones.
The flex and ride is a lot better than the springs I had before, I was always pulling a tire off the ground. And now I feel like I can shoot gaps without feeling like I'm about to roll.
Sorry about the quality of my poser shot, cell phone pic...
I don't know it just is!
Ford has a spring (don't know what truck its from) that is the same length from the center pin to the bolt hole as the chevy 63's on one side and the same length as the stock toy springs on the other. If you got those you'd be able to use the stock shackle mount location and just move the front spring hanger. Rotbox runs them on his toy and they seem to do really well
Tuck and Roll, Alriiiight
Dirt Hedz Offroad Club
the 93 ford f150 springs work well i think they are the one said above^
i don't have a bed so this might not help but, i had allready cut my frame up to the stock mounts as well before i discovered the 63s. i ordered a kit from ruff stuff(quality stuff). when i put them on i ground all the old mounts off, pushed the new shackle hanger back as far as possible, bolted the spring to my axle, put a little weight on the truck to kinda eye ball the shakle angle, measured for square and burnt it in. i ended up loosing about 2" of wheel base, but hoping to gain it back with the RUF swap. and so far i love them, and i already am running tg 3" springs up front and it sits just right. the chevy pack is a 4x4 pack with the overload removed so i have a 3 leaf pack. hope this helps