1980 Jeep CJ5; Back to the beginning

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I had a 76 CJ5 with a similar hard top, but the windshield wasn't incorporated as part of the top like that one it. I've often wished I still had it. I bought the 88 XJ shortly after selling it, and then went down the rabbit hole.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
East Stabbington
Look at Brennan’s Garage. He has several disc swap options, including some with electric parking brake options.


That site lists mostly CJ axles...is the Scout axle going to work the same? I feel like I need to find a conversion kit for a scout axle.

Sorry, I'll move this to my thread to keep from taking this one over with my noviceness.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
I wasn't able to haul the CJ5 home until today, put the Gladiator to work since I sold my 3/4 ton Chevy. Got it unloaded and took some better pics...

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The CJ5 apparently last ran & drove in 2021, then some wiring issues took it out of commission. It was sold to the guy I bought it from not running and he never got it running. All he told me was a toggle switch was added to turn the ignition off & on.... well, after tossing a fresh battery in it I was hoping I could get it to crank over and possibly fire... no luck. :(

Taking a closer look at the wiring, I can't figure out what the hell the previous, PO was thinking/doing. The Iron Duke has a GM starter with an attached solenoid, but someone wired in a remote Ford style solenoid. There are wires cut and disconnected under the dash, under the hood, etc.... and after connecting the battery, turning on the ignition toggle switch.... I have zero power anywhere. This thing is a mess... and I hate wiring.

I know in the 80's Jeep was using whatever parts they had laying around on the assembly line... my first Jeep CJ5 with the Iron Duke had a hydraulic clutch and I really liked it. I fully expected this one to have a hyd clutch, but NOPE! It's manual, which I really don't like... they can be unreliable when wheelin' and twisting the frame & body up as things move. So, meh...

Oh, it has a Rough Country lift, with aftermarket shackles and RC monotube shocks... pretty sure it will ride terrible. :rofl: The black steel wheels are 16's, oddly enough... and the BFG's have plenty of tread, but they're old and have some dry rot.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
As many as were needed... which was Zero, of course!

A Gladiator on 39's isn't the ideal tow rig, but it got the job done! I wouldn't recommend much time on the freeway, but for a quick trip around town, it's good enough.


Ryan Ward towards a TJ or MJ around fairly often with his diesel. I think with the right trailer and load, I'd be ok towing but probably not something to do very often
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Ryan Ward towards a TJ or MJ around fairly often with his diesel. I think with the right trailer and load, I'd be ok towing but probably not something to do very often
I think the diesel engine makes quite a bit of difference because of the much higher torque-horses and the added weight, which offsets the cantilever effect of the rear overhang.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Ryan Ward towards a TJ or MJ around fairly often with his diesel. I think with the right trailer and load, I'd be ok towing but probably not something to do very often

When I was on 37's with factory 4.10's I towed a CJ3B on the freeway from an hour away. The JT with the Pentastar did decent. Now with 39's and 5.13's, it really effected how hard the gas engine has to work. It revs pretty high to get the load moving, IMO the huge tires are a massive mechanical disadvantage if you're trying to tow.

An EcoDiesel JT with 35's or even 37's would probably tow decently... 39's, I don't know about.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
So, this happened.... and I didn't even have to lift a finger! 😊

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My neighbor had a friend that wanted the GM 151 Iron Duke engine for a project, so they yanked it out and gave me a little cash for it! I still want to put a V8 into this CJ5, but the debate is the transmission.... the SR4 that's in it is known to be weak ahead of a V8. I never had problems with my transmission and honestly, a stock 4.8 or 5.3 LS V8 would be perfectly fine. I like the idea of keeping it manual transmission... it was fun shifting gears in my old CJ5.

I will have a SM420 coming out of the '69 Chevy K20... but that's not a quick shifting transmission. But, granny low gear is 7.05!! With a SM420, Dana 300 and 4.10's, this thing would have a 65:1 crawl ratio.... which would be killer, for this CJ5's purpose.

The downside is the adapter... just under $600 to connect the SM420 to the Dana 300 - https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/transmission-to-transfer-case/sm420-to/kit-423/
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
So, this happened.... and I didn't even have to lift a finger! 😊

i-Pk3sfLK-X2.jpg




My neighbor had a friend that wanted the GM 151 Iron Duke engine for a project, so they yanked it out and gave me a little cash for it! I still want to put a V8 into this CJ5, but the debate is the transmission.... the SR4 that's in it is known to be weak ahead of a V8. I never had problems with my transmission and honestly, a stock 4.8 or 5.3 LS V8 would be perfectly fine. I like the idea of keeping it manual transmission... it was fun shifting gears in my old CJ5. I will have a SM420 coming out of the '69 K20... but that's not a quick shifting transmission. But granny low gear is 7.05!! With a SM420, Dana 300 and 4.10's, this thing would have a 65:1 crawl ratio.... which would be killer, for this CJ5's purpose.

The downside is the adapter... just under $600 to connect the SM420 to the Dana 300 - https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/adapters/transmission-to-transfer-case/sm420-to/kit-423/
How crazy do you want to get with it? Daily driver on 35’s and easy trail duties? Or do you want more hardcore action? I personally think you should go more exotic than an LS or any other popular V8. Yanmar, Kubota, or Mitsubishi diesel from a skid steer or other off highway construction vehicle.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
How crazy do you want to get with it? Daily driver on 35’s and easy trail duties? Or do you want more hardcore action? I personally think you should go more exotic than an LS or any other popular V8. Yanmar, Kubota, or Mitsubishi diesel from a skid steer or other off highway construction vehicle.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
How crazy do you want to get with it? Daily driver on 35’s and easy trail duties? Or do you want more hardcore action? I personally think you should go more exotic than an LS or any other popular V8. Yanmar, Kubota, or Mitsubishi diesel from a skid steer or other off highway construction vehicle.

Not crazy, 33's... maybe 35's. Probably just keep the suspension that's on it, possibly swap on YJ springs.

I'd be fine with a 4.3, but since this CJ5 is a trip down memory lane, a Chevy V8 is really the only option.
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
Not crazy, 33's... maybe 35's. Probably just keep the suspension that's on it, possibly swap on YJ springs.

I'd be fine with a 4.3, but since this CJ5 is a trip down memory lane, a Chevy V8 is really the only option.
You should have kept the bellhousing to adapt to a manual transmission... I have one if you need it.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
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So the tub on this CJ is pretty rough, giant holes in the floor, the front of the tub and the rear... the PO actually cut the rear tailgate area out and replaced much of the rear with thick plate steel, due to the rust.

I found a used but decent looking fiberglass tub near me for a good price, but I don't really like fiberglass. A steel reproduction tub is over $3k, which is a lot for this thing.

Is it worth using a fiberglass tub? Anyone messed with one? Obviously the roll bar will need to be connected to the frame, grounds will need to be wired to the frame, etc.

The fiberglass tub doesn't look to have nuts built into it for the front clip or windshield... so attaching sheetmetal parts won't be easy. I'm not sure if it's possible to attach nutserts to fiberglass or glue them in place. 😬
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
While it's not pictured, I still have it. 😉
However, if you go LS, you won't be able to use it. You'll need the 168 tooth flywheel and it won't fit in that bellhousing. I got lucky and came across an old Lakewood SBC to T-18 (and other) conversion bellhousing for cheap, that would accept the 168 tooth flywheel. When I ran my old TBI motor, the Iron Duke bellhousing worked out great and had mounting holes for a hydraulic slave cylinder, since that's what came with that combination. I just had to do a little research to find the right clutch disc and pressure plate.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
However, if you go LS, you won't be able to use it. You'll need the 168 tooth flywheel and it won't fit in that bellhousing. I got lucky and came across an old Lakewood SBC to T-18 (and other) conversion bellhousing for cheap, that would accept the 168 tooth flywheel. When I ran my old TBI motor, the Iron Duke bellhousing worked out great and had mounting holes for a hydraulic slave cylinder, since that's what came with that combination. I just had to do a little research to find the right clutch disc and pressure plate.

I used a 153 tooth flywheel and smaller 10.5" clutch from an 80's Camaro when I ran my 355 with the SR4.

I'm thinking about using the SM420 with its bellhousing and use the standard clutch and 168 tooth flywheel with the LS... but I haven't completely researched it.

I'm thinking I can run a flywheel and clutch from a early 2000's 6.0 LQ4, NV4500 truck. Need to check the spline count for the disc though.
 
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