Toyota 1995 Tacoma Build

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
Quick update: broke a Dana 44 u joint, ripped the rear axle housing at the leaf spring perches for the second time. Dana 60 is going in this next weekend, all the linking materials have been bought, 3 link calculator has been used every night for the last week. Should have the rear end available by the 21st if anyone wants it, twin case should be out on the 29th or 30th.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
Truck has been garaged, rear axle will hopefully be sold tonight, need to pull all the suspension, transfer case and front end. I am hoping to get enough cash to at least order my front ORI's since the lead time is insane. Next month I am hoping to buy the rear ORI's. Because of the at least six month lead time I am going to wire wheel the back of the frame, get it all cleaned up, figure out how to fix and prevent the cracks in the front of the frame that keep coming back and hopefully start getting the axles build and links under the truck. If I can get it rolling under it's own power without the shocks I'll take it down to cedar City to my buddies shop and get it caged. It is going to be a waiting game but I'd rather do it right and take my time since I always seem to rush things. IMG_20180427_132751294_HDR.jpg
And yes, it's fast.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
Well my buddy is trying to talk me out of buying ORI's and just get some coilovers. Are they worth the money and the six month lead time? Any advice on the matter? I was thinking ADS for coilovers if I decide to switch.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
Axles are out, rear is sold, front is available if anyone wants it. IMG_20180504_131045114.jpgIMG_20180504_131128468_HDR.jpgIMG_20180504_133043780_HDR.jpgIMG_20180504_140050_224.jpg

Going to shoot for 24-24.5" frame height, another inch stretch in the front to keep the 40's out of the firewall. Waiting on a welder now. Getting the 60 under the truck is kind of a terrible feeling because I can already see the huge amount of hurdles I'm going to have figure to make things clear and work properly. I need a cheaper hobby....
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
Weeeellll picked up some bucket seats off ksl and that's about all that has happened. Listed my motor, trans and everything to setup a twin case for a Tacoma. Decided to go with some horsepower, looking for a lq4, not going to complain if I find a lq9, 4l80e and a Chevy 205. This is slowly becoming more work but I'd rather do it once than set it up for true Toyota twins and then have the truck down for another six months to swap a motor. Rather do it all at once. IMG_20180603_131145893.jpg
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
I had a buddy who did that and he said the machine shop charged him almost as much as it would have cost him to get new ones. Although.....my lady's dad owns a machine shop.....
 

YROC FAB.

BUGGY TIME
Location
Richfield, UT.
I had a buddy who did that and he said the machine shop charged him almost as much as it would have cost him to get new ones. Although.....my lady's dad owns a machine shop.....

I have read threads whee guys just torched off the old flange and grinded them while the hub was spinning on jack stands. Slightly hacked? maybe but if it works then it aint stupid. You could always have them turned in a lathe later. Its a quick lathe job if most of it the flange is torched off first.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Location
Pocatello
Quick update, picked up two sets of H2 wheels, and hopefully will have the twin case gone this weekend. If I am able to get it sold I should be able to go pick up a 2500hd off of ksl, that would be my motor, trans and rear end. Really liking the option of the newer 14 bolt with disks already on the axle and a parking brake. Slowly plugging along on parts. Need the motor to get the correct center of gravity for the link calculator. Things should get rolling next month.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Still pretty torn on engine setup, I am convinced on a 5.3 for about five minutes then go back to a 6.0 until I see the price. Any advice on that front?

A GM 6.0 will make more bottom-end torque, the 5.3 will need to get up in the powerband before making good power. This was evident in my TJ that had 40" tires and a stock 5.3... even with a 4.3 Atlas and 5.13 gears, it didn't have tire-spinning bottom end that I had hoped.

The price difference is a big factor, IMO a 5.3 with flat top pistons and an aftermarket cam would have more power, but still not 6.0 bottom end. HTH!
 
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