Toyota 1995 Tacoma Build

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
I talked to a few different people and I want to drop the truck. I want to be closer to 24" frame height. I know the springs are going to settle, but I want it lower before i move forward with the front end. IMG_20180903_121023944.jpg

Excuse the perfect tack welds, I am getting the wiring redone in the garage so I can actually run the welder at full power without blowing breakers every three seconds. Anyways, I can go up about an inch and a half with the rear mounts and I think an inch with the front. I'd benefit more front the front being sank into the frame than the rear. So I'm going to get that started next weekend.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Those teeth that you ground off of the spring sleeves are supposed to bite into the shackle. It forces the bushing to do all the moving instead of having metal-on-metal movement that will wear out parts. You probably won't have an issue, but... Just FYI.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Well this happened. IMG_20180915_200607867.jpg

Started out the day thinking I wanted to french the spring hangers, but I want to see where the front end sits before I go and chop the rear end up. So I cleaned the frame up and thought about how to get the motor in. So because of this tiny ass garage, I had to chop the header panel out to get enough room to get the motor and trans in. So I start off lifting from the manifolds because it seemed like a good idea at the time, well the motor won't fit in the frame with the manifolds, so instead of pulling the whole motor out, I set it on a tire, in the frame, super safe (I talked to OSHA), and moved my lift points then pulled the manifolds while it was in the engine bay. So after that, I couldn't get the lift far enough into the truck because of the front cross member, so I had to cut that up. Anyways, after lots of swear words and thinking that I made a huge mistake, I got the motor where I wanted it. The frame is pretty tweaked from my accident so I had to just get it level with the frame rails. I used ruffstuff motor mounts and some 2x2 square tube to make the mounts. The frame side mount needs some gussets for sure and will be a lot of bracing when the motor comes back out for a tear down. It fits pretty well, I think the front end of the oil pan sits about an inch below the frame. I maybe could have gone an inch further back but I would have had to drop the motor lower to clear the bell housing. Also threw the spare in the bed to help settle the leafs. IMG_20180915_200625931.jpg
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Got the links in at the end of September, AS is 75-80 and roll axis is almost 0. The truck probably won't be getting any love until after May. I'm selling the 203/205 doubler I picked up, my wheels and tires might be for sale as well here soon. Every day my plan changes for the build so I need to come up with a more concrete plan.
IMG_20180921_154012410.jpgIMG_20180921_154031220.jpgIMG_20180921_154043339.jpgIMG_20180922_125420171.jpgIMG_20180922_125441673.jpg

Pretty close to bailing on the Tacoma for a few years and solid axling my 2500, I have the doubler, hi steer arms and 40's that I could use. Anyways, once I get my plans finalized I'll start making headway.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Kamas, UT
I'm FAR from a suspension expert and your work looks good. Help me with the lower arm axle side mount? Won't that axle try to roll under the truck on braking being over the centerline of axle? Maybe it's not a big deal at all? Just curious and don't know for sure
In my mind, it will really want to roll under, but the linkage will keep it from doing so... so as long as that upper mount is strong enough with the extra leverage on it.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
I'll get a better picture of it. It's not quite dramatic as it looks. It's the only way I can get the AS low enough. I might just have to sacrifice AS for less strain on the upper. Nothing is burned in and can be easily changed. Glad someone pointed something out.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Kamas, UT
I'll get a better picture of it. It's not quite dramatic as it looks. It's the only way I can get the AS low enough. I might just have to sacrifice AS for less strain on the upper. Nothing is burned in and can be easily changed. Glad someone pointed something out.
I'm not saying you need to change it, just that possibly (in my head) there would be more than normal leverage on the upper... but that is also dependent on other variables like weight and speed and how strong your brakes are, haha.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
I mean, I would think that I'll be okay, my buddy runs a similar placement on his land cruise and it's never had issues even with the races he has put it thru. I think if I can run some sort of support for the upper axle side mount, I should be fine. I don't want to find out if I'm not right. I'll try to remember to take a better picture of the lower axle side mount for a better idea of what it really is.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
Finally did something to the truck, pulled the fuel tank and fuel lines off so I could cut the front leaf hangers off and sink them into the frame. I am going to hopefully finish that this weekend. I'd also like to sink the rear mounts an inch then run a shorter shackle. Shooting for 3" lower in the back and hoping that will be enough to level it with the front. The next project will be moving the motor back 2" and up 3". I half assed the placement and have been fightinf for space. It needs to happen unfortunately. Then I should be able to finish the links, I need to move the lower frame side mounts in 3" on each side and lower the axle side lower mounts to the center of the tubes. The doubler should be gone on Friday which means I am looking for an alternative case setup. I'm thinking an atlas 2 with a 3.0 or 3.8 (I think that was what it was?) 32 spline driver drop. Rethinking ORIs for the front since I am having a hard time thinking of ways to package things. I really wanted the truck ready for EJS, bare bones, driving, no engine rebuild, no cage, but driving. Not sure that will happen now but oh well. I should have more progress in the next few months.
Again, any ideas or suggestions are appreciated.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
The rear is back on it's own weight. The front hangers need a little more welding, it's still 2" higher than I want it. But before I go crazy and finish the rear hangers I want to get the motor and links finalized so I know if I can even match the front end to the rear as it sits now. I'm hoping I will myself into moving the motor this coming week, I'm not sure how crazy I want to get with the links since I no longer have a transfer case. IMG_20190112_124743963.jpgIMG_20190112_161044778.jpgIMG_20190112_155707128.jpg

The H2 wheels won't work with the hi steer arms so I'll need something different. At some point I need to find someone with a wheel that will fit on the hub so I can figure out what I'll actually need. Ideally, I don't want the tires sticking out 10 inches so I'm sure I'll be cutting the living hell out of the front inner fenders. Anyways, that's how it sits now. Should have some more goodies tomorrow that should be all I need to finish the front end.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
The overload leaf could possibly have some axle wrap fighting benefits if you keep it. Other than that, there is zero reason to keep it - plus, you could lose ~3/4" of height by simply removing it.

My vote is to build an actual traction bar and lose the overload.

@Kevin B. has a set of wheels that may work for you - they are OEM steel wheels from a Dodge? I think.
 

OrangeSkidPlate

Active Member
I pulled the overload, I like the idea of a traction bar, although, if that is the route I go, I'm sure it would be wise to throw a truss on the rear end. I'm waiting to see where the front ends up before I go lower on the back but I thought about maybe going spring under. I think that would put it too low but it's always an option. I'm hoping I can get some battle born steel beadlocks, they seem to be fairly budget friendly.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
I dunno what they're from, they look Ford to me but I really have no idea.

https://www.rme4x4.com/threads/four-17x8-steelies-8-lug.115662/
They look like 03+ Dodge wheels to me. What's the bolt pattern? 8 on 6.5" would be Dodge wheels, 8 on 170mm would be Ford wheels. I don't think the earlier (pre super duty) Ford wheels were ever a chrome cap pressed permanently over the steel wheel like that.

I think they're these wheels (minus the plastic center caps obviously):


Sorry for the hijack.
 
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