1998 ZJ with Rubicon axles

[Fester]

1998 Grand Cherokee Limited, 5.9 with 135k miles

JK Rubicon axles front and rear purchased new from dealership, E-lockers and 4.10’s, ARB switches, maybe 6,000 miles on these axles which includes all the JK steering, brakes, etc. New these are $2500 for the rear and $3000 for the front.

5.9, exhaust, other stuff. Runs strong.
TCase is a 242 so it can be taken out of full time 4wd
Bumpers
Sliders
Clayton long arm kit
Rubicon Express 4.5” coils
5 JK Rubicon wheels with 33” MTZ’s that have less than 6,000 miles

Problems:
Sun roof doesn’t open, haven’t looked into it.
Seat heaters don’t work.
TCase doesn’t have a SYE, so it has a slight driveline vibration. I was considering putting an Atlas in it so I’ve held off on an SYE.
With the Clayton kit and only 4.5” rear coils the rear upper arms hit the floor pan. I’ve thought of either putting 6” springs on it or notching the floor.
Exhaust is loud. I have a flowmaster that will go with it that should quiet it down some.

$6,000 or best offer

I’m not in a huge hurry.

Jeep is located in Price.
Cody
435-820-Four three three five

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Is this Zombie's old rig and does it have any overheating issues? Passes inspection? Why is the exhaust so loud?

 

[Fester]

Is this Zombie's old rig and does it have any overheating issues? Passes inspection? Why is the exhaust so loud?

Yes it's the same rig. I've never had any issues with it, but I haven't put many miles on it. It's also never seen more than gravel roads since I bought it. Yes it passes inspection. It has a Magnaflow race muffler IIRC....it's tiny. Zombie threw in a Flowmaster that I was going to add to the system. It's not horrible now......just something I'd do.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

How often and under what conditions do the rear arms contact the body?

 

[Fester]

Not sure. I feel it occasionally when hitting a big bump on the street. I really haven't driven or used this rig much. I've had it flexed a couple of times and it will stuff the tires until they contact sheet metal. I'd guess it's just contacting under bump compression (not sure of the proper term here) and it's fine when articulating. From what I could see it's not hurting anything.

 

[Zombie]

I can explain the loud... buying a 5" diameter 18" long 3" core straight thru magnaflow race muffler allowed me to use my Kolak 3" mandrel bent exhaust with the Clayton long arms, and was cheaper than having the exhaust redone. I later found a place on ebay to order mandrel bends, and was planning to install the flowmaster back in it with the magnaflow as a tip/resonator type thing... it's not a whole lot louder than it was with the flowmaster, more crackle at WOT, but IMO it would sound really good and mello with both mufflers... I wish I had the money to buy it back... stupid medical bills.

A couple things Cody forgot to mention... tube bumpers front and rear, Tube sliders mounted absolutely solid to the chassis and pinch weld, the rockers and fender lips are bedlined with Rustoleum spray on bedliner, prepped correctly. The only place the upper arms contacted for ME was on the heatshield blanket stuff where the factory muffler sat. The Hood scoop is an original 1969 ford 429 mustang part, including the grille and the turn signals in the rear of the scoop, prefessionally painted by Russ's bodyworks in Sandy. The signals weren't wired in, and didn't have lights when I owned it, but they are there. The scoop is also functional with a hole under it and an edlebrock mushroom filter on top of the throttle body.

Good luck with the sale Cody... like I said, if there was any possible way I could afford it, I'd buy this thing back in a heartbeat.

 

[Fester]

Thanks Zombie! I wish I could keep it myself. Things have changed and I hate seeing this sit.

 

[Fester]

Sold.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Sold.

Glad to hear it sold that quickly!

 

[piecesnparts]

I will be putting it to lots of good use. Thanks Fester!

 

[jeep-N-montero]

It was well built, you should have many fun years with it.