Cage building feedback

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Personally, i wouldnt do that vertical bar, its distributing loads to a dead node (doing nothing basically). Also that vertical bar will be annoying and restrict movement into the back cargo area. I would also worry about banging my head on it.

I would tie that center node down to your C pillars as close to the footers as possible. Kindof like how your showing but instead of the B pillars, go down to the C pillar footers.

I get what you're saying and it's a good point about the dead node. We talked about adding that piece earlier for support from the nodes when I was going to run an 'X' in the B pillar, but if I go with the A out back, then that spot is still supported. So like this?

20210527_151207.jpg



I was planning to leave the C pillars alone, just a small 1.25" tube gusset at the top and tie in to the B pillar. I'm hoping that the passenger area would have enough triangulation and leave the C pillars open for fuel cell, tool and cooler access.

That said, there will be a horizontal tube connecting the B and C pillars, about 4-6" up, the same height of the harness bar. My rear shocks are going to mount to it.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Either your original idea or the tape option will be fine. Definitely no need for the vertical tube with the A idea. Honestly it's surprisingly easy to build a cage that will save your life. It can be a little more difficult to make one that will survive multiple rolls without needing a lot of repair.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Either your original idea or the tape option will be fine. Definitely no need for the vertical tube with the A idea. Honestly it's surprisingly easy to build a cage that will save your life. It can be a little more difficult to make one that will survive multiple rolls without needing a lot of repair.

I think I'll go with the A, its simpler and should be plenty strong. I hope this cage can take some rolls and stay together in the original shape!

That said, its crazy how tight it's getting... even with the door stretch and the B pillar moved back several inches. Working around a Flat Fender tub is tight to begin with!
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
I think I'll go with the A, its simpler and should be plenty strong. I hope this cage can take some rolls and stay together in the original shape!

That said, its crazy how tight it's getting... even with the door stretch and the B pillar moved back several inches. Working around a Flat Fender tub is tight to begin with!
Yeah I think the B pillar should hang in there for a lot of rollovers. The cage point I seem to see fail most in a hard roll is the A pillar and unfortunately there's no easy way to reinforce it in a Jeep without going full race cage. That would take some of the fun out of this project for sure.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Yes! The 'A' at the b pillar going down to the mounts is perfect. Looks sharp too!

:cool:

I agree, it's coming together quite well! It's been nice to get feedback from all you guys on the best way to make this cage strong and simple.



That last 3/4 view gives me the tingles. 😎

Yeah, it looks pretty awesome with the full cage structure! Getting better every day.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Here's where today ended, not as much progress as I had hoped but that's OK. The main structure is coming together, started working on the 'A' in the B pillar. It's tedious work... I've been tacking up the joints, then going back and welding them up most of the way. I'll need to pull the cage out once it's done and flip it over to finish the bottom of the joints. Not a fan of welding upside down.

I'm also getting used to the new welder on tube, some of the welds don't look great... but they're hot and beefy.

20210527_184531.jpg
20210527_184510.jpg
20210527_192845.jpg
 

85CUCVKRAWLER

Active Member
Location
Tooele
I have a Harbor Freight notcher that's probably 20 years old, but really only use it for 90* notches. Otherwise I use the chop saw and grinder with a flap disc.
The "Gregomatic tube chomper 5000"


Ive gone through like 3 HF notchers. Which is stupid because at this point im almost cost wise at the Woodward fab notcher.

Notches look clean though. Next cage i do im going all the way and paying for a nice elec-over-hydro bender and fancy notcher. I never want to grind a notch ever again.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
That looks really good!

Thanks Shane!! I think its a good balance of beef without being too busy and having adequate head clearance. I'm happy with the outcome!

I have some beefy flat plate corner gussets I might add here and there in the corners that look vulnerable.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I like that inverted "V" on the B pillar; it's nice because you can potentially lean the seat back a bit.
Shouldn't be too bad to add A to B spreaders below the door sill if you ever wanted to tie the cage into seat mounts in the future.
I like how the B and C pillars are in plane too. That leaves options for a spreader for rear upper coil-over mounts easy.

Nice work! 👍
 

BlackSheep

baaaaaaaaaad to the bone
Supporting Member
Can't say it's lacking triangulation now!

I have a bunch of 1.25" tube I was going to bend and use for corner gussets, but I don't know that its needed.
You might consider some gussets that can act as hand holds at the A pillar. Maybe it doesn’t matter for you but I find them helpful for getting in and out of my rig. Mostly because I’m a short f*cker. 🤣🤣
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
You might consider some gussets that can act as hand holds at the A pillar. Maybe it doesn’t matter for you but I find them helpful for getting in and out of my rig. Mostly because I’m a short f*cker. 🤣🤣
I was actually going to suggest the same. Even though Greg is tall, sometimes you park off-camber or over a hole or something.....

I'll donate the 1" tube, bent if needed. 😁
 
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