Can we talk fab/fixture tables?

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I'm interested in maybe making a new fab table--similar to the Tab and Slot Design/weldtables.com units. I see they offer as thin as 3/16"....how well do thinner tops work with the wedge-in-place clamps and things? It seems like the thicker the top, the better those would hold...but if, say, 1/4" is adequate it would make my life easier and cheaper. :D

Along the same lines, I might just convert my existing welding table by drilling a bunch of holes in it. But, it is not flat, it's more wavy. (it was a used piece of 5/8" steel originally, probably ran over with a forklift or whatever) Any ideas on how I can flatten it out? I checked into having it Blanchard ground, but it's big enough that isn't really an option. (30x97, plus they wanted me to bring in just the top, rather than the whole assembly) The only idea I had was shot down by my wife, although I kinda thought it genius; Flip the table over, and drag it down the street behind my truck. :D Concrete road would be preferable to asphalt here.

I could also ignore the non-flatness, and just drill holes and deal with it like I have been already, but that's not fun.
 

frieed

Jeepless in Draper
Supporting Member
Location
Draper, UT
I'm interested in maybe making a new fab table--similar to the Tab and Slot Design/weldtables.com units. I see they offer as thin as 3/16"....how well do thinner tops work with the wedge-in-place clamps and things? It seems like the thicker the top, the better those would hold...but if, say, 1/4" is adequate it would make my life easier and cheaper. :D

Carl, I have a 2'x4' tab and slot table and really like it. At 3/16" thick it's a bit thin for wedge lock clamps. My c;lamps (from stronghand) have a nut on the under side of the table. I've also made some of my own simple clamps with a bolt through the table and through a hole in a piece of tubing. While bolt down clamps are definitely slower, everything I do is one-off and quick changing is not an issue.

20180203_110550.jpg

This coupled with a strong hand 3-axis vise:

3axis1.jpg

and a set of Fireball tools squares works well for me.


Capture.JPG
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Carl, I have a 2'x4' tab and slot table and really like it. At 3/16" thick it's a bit thin for wedge lock clamps. My c;lamps (from stronghand) have a nut on the under side of the table. I've also made some of my own simple clamps with a bolt through the table and through a hole in a piece of tubing. While bolt down clamps are definitely slower, everything I do is one-off and quick changing is not an issue.

View attachment 132280

This coupled with a strong hand 3-axis vise:

View attachment 132282

and a set of Fireball tools squares works well for me.


View attachment 132283
Good info. Would you say your 3/16" top is sturdy enough in all other aspects, besides the wedge lock stuff?
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Along the same lines, I might just convert my existing welding table by drilling a bunch of holes in it. But, it is not flat, it's more wavy.

If you're going to drill a bunch of holes in it anyways, add some strategically placed braces under your table and then run bolts through the table and brace to push down the waves. Or do the opposite and lift up the low spots. May require cutting some old welds so the top will move a bit.
 

YROC FAB.

BUGGY TIME
Location
Richfield, UT.
I like the drilling out your existing 5/8 table. Here's my 3'x6' 3/4" thick table i drilled out. I used peg board to get my pattern (peg board is a 1"x1" grid) My table has a bit of crown to it right in the middle. My plan is to make a frame out of some rec tube and then bolt the plate to the rec tube frame and shim it flat.

Thick thicker table is kind to be able to clamp and pull thing straight. I straightened these out after they warped from all the weld with just a single clamp and some blocks on the end of my table.
124154532_351549559469418_5479036045440228718_n.jpg
60497405_2229374103817534_2203409297629511680_o.jpg
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I like the drilling out your existing 5/8 table. Here's my 3'x6' 3/4" thick table i drilled out. I used peg board to get my pattern (peg board is a 1"x1" grid) My table has a bit of crown to it right in the middle. My plan is to make a frame out of some rec tube and then bolt the plate to the rec tube frame and shim it flat.

Thick thicker table is kind to be able to clamp and pull thing straight. I straightened these out after they warped from all the weld with just a single clamp and some blocks on the end of my table.
View attachment 132412
View attachment 132410
Any suggestions on how to flatten my 5/8"? A simple crown would be a lot easier to deal with than the wavy top. I guess @UNSTUCK idea of shimming/bracing is the right answer, but it sounds like work. :)
 
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