Cherokee buggy build?

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
Mine is the engine and tranny from an 89 Cherokee. My advise? Find a shorter engine. The I6's are way long... but I love it at the same time. :D

My AW4 has been through a ton of abuse ever since I got a hold of the thing. No rebuilds at all and still as strong when I first got it. It's an awesome automatic if that is what he is planning on using.

Not much else left over after that to use on a buggy... what parts is he planning on using?
 

great scott

Well-Known Member
I was hoping you would post up :) . He bought a 93 with only 40k on it, but it was totaled. As of now he is using the engine, trans, and tcase. We are going to sell the axles because we need bigger.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
great scott said:
I was hoping you would post up :) . He bought a 93 with only 40k on it, but it was totaled. As of now he is using the engine, trans, and tcase. We are going to sell the axles because we need bigger.


Yes, and throw that 'frame' away.....

Engine=good
tranny=great (not quite awesome due to it's computer management--but reliable as a brick)
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
mbryson said:
Yes, and throw that 'frame' away.....

Engine=good
tranny=great (not quite awesome due to it's computer management--but reliable as a brick)

I LOVE the AW4. :D


Scott... There are TONS of wires. Keep them all marked and get a diagram so you know what you can pull and what you need. You don't need to keep much of it, but just be weary.
 

iceaxe

Backroad Adventurer
Location
Sandy
Cherokee auto tranny is designated AW4

there are two transfer cases common for 93, one is part time 4wd (np231), one is full time 4wd (np242)
 

Badcop

Who Dat? Who Der?
Location
Hyrum UT
iceaxe said:
Cherokee auto tranny is designated AW4

there are two transfer cases common for 93, one is part time 4wd (np231), one is full time 4wd (np242)


This one being a 93' should be a 231 unless its the laredo/limited package in which the 242 was way more common....

I will also agree the AW4 is AWSOME!! I especially like the older non puter controlled with the newer torque converter installed, works better, you can downshift and stay in the gear you want. You do need to reach up and unplug the power trans wire to prevent that though, cant do it to a new one.

The newer ones in 1st gear auto shift up to second at about 25mph, and 2nd gear on the tree turns into 3rd (non OD).


When you pull the wire harness, make sure to keep the fuse block on the passenger side fender as you will need it in conjunction to the computer. If its buggied get a schematic like what I think it was Shane that said it. Youll be able to cut loose a hoop load of wires that arnt needed, like signals, lights, etc.
 

way2nosty

Registered User
no

it's really more like the difference between the 208 and 203 they both have low range in the low lock position, but the 231 is the same tranny that came in the 88-96 chevy 1/2 tons the 242 is like the 203, it divides power to all four wheels all the time, if it has the 242 and you won't need manual hubs unless you are welding diffs, or using locker you will want some way to let your front end steer better for those road coarses.
 

Mr.Chevy

Registered User
Location
Orem
great scott said:
Man, :rolleyes: I just was not getting it. But I think I have it now, the AW4 is just the designation for the trans like THM 350 or C6.
Ya that is right AW4 is just the model number for that tranny like chevy has the TH350 or the 700R4.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
way2nosty said:
it's really more like the difference between the 208 and 203 they both have low range in the low lock position, but the 231 is the same tranny that came in the 88-96 chevy 1/2 tons the 242 is like the 203, it divides power to all four wheels all the time, if it has the 242 and you won't need manual hubs unless you are welding diffs, or using locker you will want some way to let your front end steer better for those road coarses.

Those are transfer cases, not transmissions

Scott - In case you missed it... the Auto Transmission is called an AW4. The transfer case you have is either a NP231 or an NP242. The 242 has a full-time 4x4 option (read AWD) but also has a locked (part-time high and low) 4WD position. ;)

AW4:
aw4_rlq.jpg
 

great scott

Well-Known Member
Me thinks I gets it. So how big of tire do you think we can get away with, and not scatter the AW4 trans or NP321 tcase? At this point the axles we plan on running are Ford 3/4T; rear D60 and front HD Danna 44. This will be a 4 seater and thus a bit heavy. Next ?, I am trying to get him to go full hydro (steering) but he is trying to go low buck and use the stock pump and gear box with a home made cross over. Any opinion on the low buck vrs the hydro?
 

way2nosty

Registered User
trans

great scott said:
Me thinks I gets it. So how big of tire do you think we can get away with, and not scatter the AW4 trans or NP321 tcase? At this point the axles we plan on running are Ford 3/4T; rear D60 and front HD Danna 44. This will be a 4 seater and thus a bit heavy. Next ?, I am trying to get him to go full hydro (steering) but he is trying to go low buck and use the stock pump and gear box with a home made cross over. Any opinion on the low buck vrs the hydro?


If he's running a GM PS box you can homebrew a Hydro assist setup for around $200.00 you just have to make sure you get the right size ram for your application. I'm sure you can make the stock box work, but Chevy steering boxes are a dime a dozen (well not quite) PM me if you want more info. In terms of the aw4 trans and the 231, the 231 is chain driven and I think that will be your weak link, he would be better off to find a dana 18-20-300 rather then running the 231, the 300 comes with a 6 bolt flange and aren't extrememly hard to come by the dana 20 would have to be adapted look at Novak If I remember right, they have one. the AW4 is a pretty good automatic, I would definatly run a large auxilary cooler, they are notorious for overheating when abused, and maybe a deep pan, but other then that 37-40s @ ~2800 lbs.
 

great scott

Well-Known Member
way2nosty said:
If he's running a GM PS box you can homebrew a Hydro assist setup for around $200.00 you just have to make sure you get the right size ram for your application. I'm sure you can make the stock box work, but Chevy steering boxes are a dime a dozen (well not quite) PM me if you want more info. In terms of the aw4 trans and the 231, the 231 is chain driven and I think that will be your weak link, he would be better off to find a dana 18-20-300 rather then running the 231, the 300 comes with a 6 bolt flange and aren't extrememly hard to come by the dana 20 would have to be adapted look at Novak If I remember right, they have one. the AW4 is a pretty good automatic, I would definatly run a large auxilary cooler, they are notorious for overheating when abused, and maybe a deep pan, but other then that 37-40s @ ~2800 lbs.

I have done the hyd assist thing (short of tapping the box) its on m K5 now, and it works well. Will the dana 20 bolt up to the AW4 and if so were are they found (year make modle). Remember he is going low buck :cool: and I mean low buck. His goal is to be under $1000 :eek: and it looks like he will be close. So with that in mind were you you all spend vrs not spend.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
As long as you have the proper gearing (proper meaning geared low enough to handle the tires and not stress the transmission) the AW4 will hold up to pretty much anything, IMO.
 

way2nosty

Registered User
dana 20

great scott said:
I have done the hyd assist thing (short of tapping the box) its on m K5 now, and it works well. Will the dana 20 bolt up to the AW4 and if so were are they found (year make modle). Remember he is going low buck :cool: and I mean low buck. His goal is to be under $1000 :eek: and it looks like he will be close. So with that in mind were you you all spend vrs not spend.


a dana 18 and a dana 20 are the same case (technically) they can be found in most late willeys, scout 80 and 800s came in some broncoes, but unfortunatly no, they won't bolt to your trans without a spud shaft adapter.

The Dana 300 However will if you can match the correct input shaft and they came in quite a few jeeps some scout 2s wagoneers etc, the aw4 can have either a 21 or 23 spline output, if it is the 23 spline it should bolt right to the dana 300. the problem you might find is you will want to switch to passenger side front axle off a chev for the dana 300 because so far as I remember, they only came passenger side drop

look at http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/model_300.htm,

also the aw4 only has a 2.80 first gear, that may be a little disappointing, you will probabbly need 588 gears to make the buggy sooper.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
East Stabbington
I think you're weak points will be the 231 and the front 44. The 231 can hold up to some abuse, but over time the chain will stretch and the 3 planetary setup is a weak point as well. If you go with say 37" MTR's, you'll probably go through a few front end parts (hubs, shafts, etc) per season and the transfercase should live for a couple years if it's not in bad shape already. Anything bigger and heavier tire wise will destory the front 44.

I also recomend superwinch hubs. Yes, they suck, but they suck just enough that they usually will break before anything else in the front end, and they have a lifetime warrenty. I carry a set of slugs with me to repair blown hubs and I have been pretty pleased with that setup.
 
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