chevy 5.3 to th350 trans

camdawg

Active Member
I am putting a 05 chevy 5.3 in my buggy and I want to run my th350 trans my question is do I need a new flex plate or just the spacer? I have been looking on line and I am still not clear on what I need? also where is the best place to get the spacer or flex plat at thanks for your help
camdawg
 

CSR

Active Member
Location
Mapleton
Cam, that's the exact setup I'm running--th350 to 5.3L. You need a dished flexplate and torque converter pilot cup, Advance Adapters kit part number 712500A on their site. I can help you with the details of the install. I learned some things the hard way that will save you a fair amount of money and heartburn. Give me a call when you're ready to to pull the trigger.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
you can also get a custom converter with the right spacing so you don't need to change the flexplate or spacer
 

Noahfecks

El Destructo!
Cam, that's the exact setup I'm running--th350 to 5.3L. You need a dished flexplate and torque converter pilot cup, Advance Adapters kit part number 712500A on their site. I can help you with the details of the install. I learned some things the hard way that will save you a fair amount of money and heartburn. Give me a call when you're ready to to pull the trigger.

Would also be interested in hearing what you learned, I am going to run the Gen IV aluminum 5.3 with a TH350
 

camdawg

Active Member
im in the process of working out the wiring with waynehartwig so it might be a while before I will be ready to bolt the trans up
 

CSR

Active Member
Location
Mapleton
Ok, speaking of wiring, first tip:

Get a 5.3harness for a 5.3 engine, if you didn't already get a harness with the engine. Do not get a 6.0 harness. They are not the same. The connectors for the O2 sensors are different from one to the other. Yes, the 6.0 harness will work, but you will have to cut the O2 sensor connectors off of it and splice wires into 5.3L O2 sensors. 6.0 and 5.3 O2 sensors are different and non-compatible with the other engine. Not having a scan tool, I went through 2 weeks and $200 worth of guessing and trouble shooting to figure this out. Just passing it along to anyone who does the swap.

Next pointer:

You can get rid of your extra thermal fan switch because the ecm has a pin that activates the cooling fan relay at whatever temperature you set it to. Just ask Wayne to turn on the fans when he does the tune, and tell him what temperature you want the fans to turn on at. I think I set mine to 190. I have the pin number for the ecm fan ground somewhere if you need it, so you can just run the ground wire of that control circuit to that pin.

I'll post more stuff as I think of it.
 

Noahfecks

El Destructo!
Have the harness that was on the motor from the factory. Will also be working with Wayne for my harness mods and tune. Anyone know if the Gen IV uses the same flex plate spacing as the Gen III. CSR are you running a VSS, I dont have a provision for one but have heard it runs better with it.
 

CSR

Active Member
Location
Mapleton
I'm not running a VSS. I'm not sure what you mean by "runs better". Mine runs like a top without a lick of hesitation, ever. It might run a little more efficiently with a VSS for better mileage (?).

Regarding the flex plate, I'm not sure about GenIII stuff, but if you're running a 5.3 or 6.0, you'll need a dished flexplate and pilot cup for the torque converter snout (Advance Adapters part #712500A). You can probably get the same kit from other vendors. I just bought from AA. On my 5.3 from a 2006 truck, there was a plug in the back of the crankshaft that looked like a freeze plug. I had to remove it with a homemade slide hammer setup that I made with a large bolt. This allowed the cup to sit in the back of the crank like it should without pushing the torque converter away from the crank. Remember, the spacer people talk about is NOT a spacer. It should not push the converter any farther away from the crank. It's just there to keep the torque converter pilot centered.

One other tip about removing the plug from the rear of the crank: I've read on forums that you should NOT use the trick of driving grease into the space behind plug in order to force it out, because crank damage may occur. I found that a large, long bolt (like a 3/4" or something) will thread tightly into the inner diameter of the plug, and you can slide a plate over the bolt before threading it in and hammer it all out. It's been a year since I did it, but that's how I remember it.
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
The VSS (variable speed sensor needed for the electronic trans) is usually tuned out when the box is flashed for a custom install like this. So are 2 of the 4 O2 sensors. At least that's what I did with my 5.3. Wayne is a great source and there is lots of information on Pirates.
 
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