CJ front axle... build?

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
So my CJ2A is going to get some upgrades, I plan to run 35's and wheel it pretty hard. I want a front axle that is dead reliable, fits the needs, tire size and build. I currently have a narrow track '76 CJ5 Dana 30 that I'm going to run for now, but don't think it'll be reliable for my needs in the long run and don't want to try sinking a lot of money into a low pinion Dana 30.

So I'm debating what would be best for my needs.... 35's, pretty deep gearing ( 4 to 1 in t-case ), probably won't really be doing front digs, plan to run hard trails in Moab, etc. It'll have a Vortec 4.3, TH350, etc. The CJ2A won't be heavy, so I'll have that going for me. Either way, I'll probably have to custom build the axle to get a high pinion, the (narrow) width I need and passenger side drop. The narrow track axles are only 53" wide, WMS-WMS. And I don't want to spend $2k+ on what should be a simple axle.

So, I think my best option is a JK Dana 44 front axle housing, chop the tubes and make it passenger drop, get custom inner shafts built, etc. I'd sleeve the tubes, beef up the factory weak inner knuckles, etc. It would be a little spendy up front, but should be more than enough for my needs. I'm worried about the size of the housing, how it will fit under a narrow CJ, etc.

The other option is similar, using a XJ/YJ Dana 30 high pinion housing. Same thing, chop, make pass. drop, narrow, etc. I've seen XJ/YJ Dana 30's hold up to 37's, with 4130 shafts & joints.

No matter what, I'll have to redrill hubs to match the 5 x 5 1/2" bolt pattern if the rear axle.

What do you think? Any other options I'm missing? No, I'm not doing a Dana 60... :cody:
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
I wouldn't do the JK front 44 for a few reasons. The locker is offset so the shafts are pretty different from any other front shaft at the splines, specifically the placement of the seal surface on those shafts. If you meant to redrill the JK unit bearing hubs, you can, but the brakes may cause you problems with wheels unless you run 16" or larger wheels.

I'd run a HP 30. Narrow it and swap the old inner knuckles from a D30/44 so you can run regular hubs. Then you can run 297 joints and get shafts narrowed easily.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Reading comprehension is a challenge today, sorry

No worries, I didn't mention the disconnect so it's a legitimate question.


I wouldn't do the JK front 44 for a few reasons. The locker is offset so the shafts are pretty different from any other front shaft at the splines, specifically the placement of the seal surface on those shafts. If you meant to redrill the JK unit bearing hubs, you can, but the brakes may cause you problems with wheels unless you run 16" or larger wheels.

I'd run a HP 30. Narrow it and swap the old inner knuckles from a D30/44 so you can run regular hubs. Then you can run 297 joints and get shafts narrowed easily.

Good thoughts on the JK axle! I didn't think about the brakes and wheel size... planning to stick with 15's.

I wonder how the YJ tubes compare to 44 tubes, far as knuckles. It would be nice to run Dana 44 knuckles & outers, could get a set of flat top knuckles if high steer will clear. And D44 hubs & outer shafts would be nice. Good input!
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
No worries, I didn't mention the disconnect so it's a legitimate question.




Good thoughts on the JK axle! I didn't think about the brakes and wheel size... planning to stick with 15's.

I wonder how the YJ tubes compare to 44 tubes, far as knuckles. It would be nice to run Dana 44 knuckles & outers, could get a set of flat top knuckles if high steer will clear. And D44 hubs & outer shafts would be nice. Good input!
I'd just have a Carl whip up some small sleeves/shims to take up the gap between the inner C and the 30 tube.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
But I want a high pinion...

So tube swap a Ford 44... In a cj2a uptravel and pumpkin size would be a bigger concern for me than a HP. A LP fits better and it's plenty strong for 35s
Either way it's loads easier and cheaper than a JK axle to get bigger tubes, knuckles, brakes AND 5x5.5 that fits a 15" wheel... plus hubs look period.

I had problems with unit bearings on 35s in my d30s. That's why my TJ d30 has Warn d44 5x5.5 outers
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
That is a lot of work to go from low pinion to a high pinion, especially if you are staying on leaf springs. The joint size is a worthy upgrade though.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Or a pd waggy 44 housing... the Longside shaft is shorter.
A 297 joint will handle 35s, my setup has 4340 30 spline outers instead of 19 spline coarse (scout application) to keep it narrow . And the ball joints on a 44 are way better than a d30 too.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Ford 76/77 f150 d44 tubes are .5" chevs a little less
way better than d30s.
You could open up all kinds of options with Chev waggy flat top knuckles and ford hubs. Just make sure you use later Chev knuckles or the stud pattern is wrong for the spindle you'll want for ford hubs and caliper placement on the knuckle is wrong too.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
I'm mostly concerned with the u-joint size, the XJ/YJ Dana 30 high pinion housing will be smaller in size, making it fit easier. I'll be running about 2" lift, which should help fit a HP housing.

If I can make Dana 44 knuckles and outer parts work with a XJ/YJ Dana 30, then I think I'll get the best of both worlds, it should fit well, not cost a ton and work great for my needs.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Dana 44 knucks won't work on a d30 because the tube size is so much bigger. You'd have to cut the tube off and leave it inside the inner c to get close.

Most common Dana 44's have 2 3/4" tube, seems like only the HD Dana 44's have 3" tubes.

XJ/YJ tubes are 2 1/2"... I think 1/4" different is workable by sleeving the Dana 30 outside and plug welding it into place.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
The advantages of the LPd44 are driveshaft clearance, tube size, brakes, balljoints, hubs, pinion and ring gear size, housing stiffness and you can fit that bigger pumpkin in the small CJ2a package. Also you get some pinion angle to caster angle advantage because they were in trucks that had a larger tire to begin with. Certainly you can set your caster if you do a custom 30/44 hybrid but it seems like lots of work when narrowing just a Longside is so easy.

Other than driveshaft protection I see no downside vs a hp30 I. Your application It sucks to retube axles.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
1. Shafts: revolution makes shafts that use the JK 1350 size u joint. Nifty. And basically bulletproof for 35s. Note. These are for tj length shafts. Not sure if they would do custom?


2. A 44 isn’t an upgrade over a 30 in my opinion. Same axle shaft u joint size. When my tj was on 35s with a low pinion 30, 4.56 gears and 4:1 tcase I broke u joints. Never had a problem with the ring and pinion or the actual shaft. Yes the ring and pinion on a 44 are bigger, but probably not necessary for a light flatty on 35s

my $.02
 
Top