Clutch actuator/pushrod issue...

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
I've never had to remove and re-install a clutch actuator before, but I'm noticing that its not engaging the clutch now. Of course, it has to be clocked in the correct position otherwise it wouldn't go all the way inside. Its on that old IT490 I'm working on, but the basic design is no different than most (if not all) cable operated dirtbikes today. If I'm not being clear enough, its the shaft with a flat on it that comes in contact with what I'd assume is a push rod. Has a return spring and lever on top that is connected to the end of the clutch cable.

BTW, it hasn't been started after re-installing the actuator. Actually, the bike hasn't been started now for 3 years, and that's how long its been since the clutch was known to be functional.

Is there pressure placed on the rod to reset its position when the engine is running? that's the only thing I could think of... Or maybe the push rod is stuck in the engaged position?
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
I've never had to remove and re-install a clutch actuator before, but I'm noticing that its not engaging the clutch now. Of course, it has to be clocked in the correct position otherwise it wouldn't go all the way inside. Its on that old IT490 I'm working on, but the basic design is no different than most (if not all) cable operated dirtbikes today. If I'm not being clear enough, its the shaft with a flat on it that comes in contact with what I'd assume is a push rod. Has a return spring and lever on top that is connected to the end of the clutch cable.

BTW, it hasn't been started after re-installing the actuator. Actually, the bike hasn't been started now for 3 years, and that's how long its been since the clutch was known to be functional.

Is there pressure placed on the rod to reset its position when the engine is running? that's the only thing I could think of... Or maybe the push rod is stuck in the engaged position?

Those clutches are keyed IIRC. There are little triangles on the top plate that had to line up with some marks on the clutch basket to allow it to set in all the way.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
"What you have to do is back off the pressure plate's (#7 in the chart link above) 6 bolts so the internal shaft (#22) and ball can go to the "clutch plates open" position. This may require taking the bolts out, springs and pressure plate off, gaffer tape the plates from falling out and tilting the bike...the ball should drop out, don't lose it. The end of the actuator arm that goes down into the crankcase has a D shaped end....if the internal shaft is in the closed plates position the actuator won't drop down far enough to engage. With the shaft backed off and the actuator fully down then you can bolt up the pressure plate and do the adjusting then."

Thanks for the link to this man!
 
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