Easy Out, or nut and weld?

[85CUCVKRAWLER]

Ill take my congratulatory beers at a future event.

 

[85CUCVKRAWLER]

I'd never ever recommend that antisieze on the mating surfaces. Freaking high steer arms and high steer arm bolts ALWAYS come loose then bend and break. It's the bend that makes them suck to get out IF they're not rusted.

ARP studs and like double the torque spec and double long nuts with the strongest locktite you can find. I've even seen guys weld a shelf to the sides of the knuckles to act like the keyway they use on aftermarket knuckles to keep them from shearing.

I personally have my high steer arm bolted through the stock steering arm tre hole that I drilled out too.

Yeah, i had this issue with my old toyota high steer arms.

Now that i am kingpin master race, no issues at all running 40 year old stock stuff.

 

[85CUCVKRAWLER]

Here is a job I did about a year ago on an LS head. These are common to break off and luckily the client brought me this one off the engine.

View attachment 144811


Yes, that is a broken extractor in there as well and it broke off below flush.
View attachment 144812

I like ER309 TIG rod to build up the fastener to slightly proud of the surface.
View attachment 144813

Then place a nut over the weld and continue to weld the nut to the built up fastener. It is also good to remove the zinc coating from the nuts prior to welding. I usually keep a small variety of sizes of nuts that have had the coating removed by using muriatic acid handy for jobs such as these are they are quite common to come through the door. This saves me time of having to remove the coating.
View attachment 144814

The heat from welding not only fuses the nut to the fastener and weld but also expands the fastener and breaks any rust/corrosion so as soon as the item cools enough that it is no longer in its "plastic" state I put a wrench on it and begin working the fastener back and forth until it comes free.
View attachment 144815

View attachment 144816


Easy peezy.

Not to be rude, but this is a totally different issue. Not applicable in any way. Ive done this repair, welding to steel in an aluminum head using a MIG welder means nothing sticks to the aluminum. Easy fix, no big deal.

We are talking about welding to a recessed steel bolt in a cast steel kingpin housing. Much different issue.

 

[Hickey]

This one it's my artsy picture of the day.

 

[85CUCVKRAWLER]

This one it's my artsy picture of the day.

View attachment 144850

Tack mountain

 

[Hickey]

Tack mountain

That one didn't hold very well at all. Frankly, the tack mountain didn't work for me, at least not in the way I understood your description.

 

[zmotorsports]

Not to be rude, but this is a totally different issue. Not applicable in any way. Ive done this repair, welding to steel in an aluminum head using a MIG welder means nothing sticks to the aluminum. Easy fix, no big deal.

We are talking about welding to a recessed steel bolt in a cast steel kingpin housing. Much different issue.

Actually it is the same process, regardless of in aluminum or steel, but I don't use MIG, I use TIG to have more control. I've done them the exact same way in cast iron heads but didn't have any pictures readily available. Just did a couple in an old 460 Ford still in the truck about a year ago using the same procedure. PITA but it works. The key is to stack up the weld high enough before you get out into the parent material. Then put the nut over the stacked weld bead and proceed as normal.

 

[frieed]

This is a slick trick for large bolts that have broken off below the surface. Use a piece of black steel pipe and weld it to the top of the broken bolt. To weld the pipe to the bolt, use a stick welder and put the electrode down the inside of the pipe.