FE501s

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
I just ordered a JD Tuner for the ol’ girl! These bikes are super lean and restricted in stock form it’s surprising they run at all and I can’t wait to uncork it. These tuners have been on back order since I bought the bike glad to finally get my hands on one—well hopefully it’s in the mail.

Another option was to replace the entire ecu but it was $230 compared to $900 so I hope the tuner does the job—it should.

I’ll do a write up when I start pulling the plugs out of the exhaust and intake. It’s weird the intake actually has a reed cage inside it like two stroke lol.
You won’t be disappointed. Did the JD tuner, removed the factory intake “obstruction” 🙄 and added an FMF slip on to my nephews FE250. Huge improvement. You’ll wish you had done it sooner. 🤘
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Good to hear @Vonski Does he have to fiddle around with it or is it set and go? I imagine The only place to put the controller is in the air box 🤔. If so it shouldn’t be too hard to access it as the cover just pops off.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Good to hear @Vonski Does he have to fiddle around with it or is it set and go? I imagine The only place to put the controller is in the air box 🤔. If so it shouldn’t be too hard to access it as the cover just pops off.
The tuner is very simple and the default setting works great or you can play around with several built-in tunes. It just plugs into some factory connectors if I remember right. Most stick it to the head tube in front of the tank, but you could put it in the airbox if you wanted.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
The most elegant way to get rid of the reeds is to use an earlier fx or fc intake boot.
He’s right. While most just pry out that little reed block thingy and are perfectly happy, for bonus points (and technically better flow), swapping to another boot is an option. I totally forgot about this, thx Stratton. 🤘
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Just received my JD tuner in the mail! Six levels of tuning actually means six main levels with eight sub levels for each level—if that makes any sense 😐 I don’t know if I’m smart enough to make this thing work hahaha!

Either way it uses the same principals as carburetor jetting which at one time (a very long time ago) I was really good at so I think I’ll be able to figure it out,

Claimed HP gain is 15 which puts it in CR/KX500 territory with a smoother power curve. Not after peak HP just don’t want it to run super/dangerously lean anymore.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Just received my JD tuner in the mail! Six levels of tuning actually means six main levels with eight sub levels for each level—if that makes any sense 😐 I don’t know if I’m smart enough to make this thing work hahaha!

Either way it uses the same principals as carburetor jetting which at one time (a very long time ago) I was really good at so I think I’ll be able to figure it out,

Claimed HP gain is 15 which puts it in CR/KX500 territory with a smoother power curve. Not after peak HP just don’t want it to run super/dangerously lean anymore.

Nah. According to Taco Mike's real life Dyno numbers a piggyback tuner will *maybe* get you 5 Max. BUT it will run WAY less lean and less flameouts which is a huge plus.
15 would be different ECU, exhaust, SX intake with upstream spraying injector and throttle body, high comp piston, the mx (perforated airbox cover) head work etc.

I did a snowbike for a guy who wanted fx450 power out of an FE500 and it was $5k. I think we figured it was better to do a wide ratio trans and a big bore on the mx bike the second time around.

None of this is to disparage the 500. I absolutely adore that bike. No other 4t rides the same in the tight and nasty except maybe that beta 430 enduro model.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Help me decide… I can drill/break out the welded in end screens in my factory muffler end cap or order an aftermarket end cap (Fastway) for $160 but it’s on back order.

Both options have the spark arrester which I need. Kinda leaning towards just modding the stock end cap…

This and eliminating the intake reeds are what I need to do to get this ol’ girl un-restricted with my tuner.
 

RustEoldtrux

RustEoldtrux
Location
Evanston, WY
Supertrapp exhaust systems are awesome. I had a Supertrapp muffler/ spark arrestor on my 1974 Hodaka Super Rat and the ability to tune the exhaust was a great feature. I've even driven past the Supertrapp factory in Cleveland Ohio.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Disc style exhausts are restrictive.

I think Lexx is another cheap option. If you're willing to replace the whole can.

Modding the stock cap vs an aftermarket cap: There are relatively zero hps difference between the two-

Definitely consider ditching the emissions nonsense since you have a tuner. It's more reliable and a free way to drop some lbs.
 
Last edited:

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Sweet! I just installed the JD tuner. Went pretty easy. The intake reeds were kind of a pain to get out as they were glued in and for the exhaust I just drilled a hole through the screens and hammered them out. These two things are super restrictive so it’ll be good to get them out of there.

I was very displeased to find my intake tube full of oily dust/grime. I think I might switch air filter oils right now I’m running PJ1 and I’ve used that since I was a kid. What oil do you guys recommend?

I put the tuner box where the instructions told me and it fits nicely without getting in the way of things.

E5A89A50-AF0A-4F47-92CA-29217275AA3B.jpegA06007E6-54C8-4504-B715-EC864D7D48E9.jpeg16B6B00C-F33D-499B-917C-5E2B1C0254D8.jpeg
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Nice.
I think PJ1 works fine. (I hate NoToil like a fat kid hates excersice) Make sure you're using some grease on the rim on the air filter.

Don't ride the bike for a few hours after you oil the filter. So many bikes get ruined this way- because the solvents don't flash off right away and the bike sucks filter oil and that sticky goop screws everything up.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Shhh…. My baby is sleeping. Dang I can’t wait for next season. Maybe I need to head south either way I’m on covidcation and really wishing I could get out.
FB1BD090-448D-4017-BA59-CD6A5C81973D.jpeg

So I’m really debating on suspension 101’s gobblers. I’ve had two bikes with WP 50mm extremes and all I’ve ever done is compare every other bike I’ve owned to those forks. They are the definition of plush—even though the newest set is now 20 years old 😳. Anyone here have experience with the gobblers? My forks are the spring fork x’plor WP’s and while they’re ok they bottom easily and aren’t that special and imo they’re holding me back from being a legend—just kidding but I think they could use a technology injection. The Husky guys are raving about these gobblers on advrider but I don’t know for sure.


On that note I swapped on the stock tank. The Acerbis 3.9 was sweet but it was a nut cracker! I don’t need the range of a bigger tank with the riding I’ve done in the last few years and nobody else I ride with has a desert tank so there’s that.

Anyway who would you send your suspension to? I’ve used pro-action in the past and loved them fwiw.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
I agree. Those spring forks are just ok. The clickers on them though are basically just for looks :p

My buddy Josh at Alpine XC has his own cone valves he and his partner have developed. I freaking love my cone valves.

My buddy Kevin at moto experts if you want race tech.

Mxtech lucky inserts if you want to do it yourself.

Harbor Freight knockoff pelican shotgun case for shipping them.
 

glockman

I hate Jeeps
Location
Pleasant Grove
I have Josh's cones and I like them. I didn't notice any small bump compliance improvement but I almost can't bottom them. I have hit G-outs really hard in races and never touched the bottom. You can just go faster through everything. I'm not a suspension guru, but I can really feel when these things save my bacon where the stockers would have buckled. They are $$$ but Josh is a really good guy and stands behind his stuff. He did my shock valving at the same time and the bike just works for this fat old guy.
 

anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
I have Josh's cones and I like them. I didn't notice any small bump compliance improvement but I almost can't bottom them. I have hit G-outs really hard in races and never touched the bottom. You can just go faster through everything. I'm not a suspension guru, but I can really feel when these things save my bacon where the stockers would have buckled. They are $$$ but Josh is a really good guy and stands behind his stuff. He did my shock valving at the same time and the bike just works for this fat old guy.
You mean Petes "clone" valves
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Thanks for the feedback everyone! I was talking it over with my wife and she’s having a hard time understanding why my new bike already needs suspension work lol. Oye—it might be awhile before I can get things dialed in.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
I told my wife it was for safety. If I don't get bucked, I stay on the bike. ;)

Josh's cones were probably reverse engineered off Pete's and Pete's off of WPs and WPs off of Steve Simmons design (that went on to be rock shox). The design is originally from an 1890s parent.

I'd have mentioned Pete's stuff, but he's out of the moto business. He told me he's doing utv stuff for a company as an employee.
 
Last edited:
Top