I am looking to pick up an old truck for some full width 60's, or at least the front. It would need to be a drivers drop, other than that I am not too particular. I am thinking that if I get myself one that doesnt run, I can hopefully get a set of good axles, and matching ones, for a decent price. My question is, what years and trucks should I be looking at? I know that late 70's Ford F250s have what I am looking for, but that is about all I know.
full width front 60's
- Thread starter 1993yj
- Start date
1 Ton (and a few 3/4T) Fords from the late 70's through the 90's have what you are looking for. Some of the newer (after 86 I believe) have balljoints instead of kingpins, I prefer kingpins because high steer is 100xs easier on them, but either work fine. My advice is to check the BOM on any potential vehicles because you will start to run into D50s that guys swear are D60s (or D61s). I'd suggest search the site for a couple hours, you'll get tons of info on it, I know I've posted this info bunches of times before as well as many other people. The info you need is right here on the board you just gotta do a little digging 
Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Good luck! best place to start is finding the ultra hard to come by, and highly sought after 79 Ford F-350 it has a high pinion, and I believe it was a king-pin front end which is really good. You could also find the 97 or newer pre-super duty Ford 60 which is a ball joint front end which is also OK. Other than that the Fords had either TTB (twin traction beam IFS) or an odd (but decent) Dana 50 solid axle or the goofy lug pattern 60 like the newer super duty trucks have. I swear that I have seen 80's F-350 four door pickups with 60's under them, but I don't know if they were standard or just carried over from 79 :sick: . You could also get a factory 5 on 5 1/2 lug 60 out of a four door F-150, but they are very very rare. Anything older than 79 most likely had a closed knuckle design on the Fords which I personally would avoid.
Basically you are going to pay a LOT (or search forever) for a driver side drop 60 with open knuckles for a decent price, but there are always people that don't know what they have so you might get lucky. You might be best off going aftermarket (Dyna-trac comes to mind) or beefing up a D44 or D50. Hope this helps
Basically you are going to pay a LOT (or search forever) for a driver side drop 60 with open knuckles for a decent price, but there are always people that don't know what they have so you might get lucky. You might be best off going aftermarket (Dyna-trac comes to mind) or beefing up a D44 or D50. Hope this helps
Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
....................yeah Meat's post is much better than mine I was under the impression that you could only get an open knuckle D60 in a 79, and then in 97- present F-350's. Anyway they are still hard to find in a SRW truck, and expensive if you do come across one. Lot's of D50's out there so don't be fooled
I was under the impression that you could only get an open knuckle D60 in a 79, and then in 97- present F-350's. Anyway they are still hard to find in a SRW truck, and expensive if you do come across one. Lot's of D50's out there so don't be fooled 
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
1993yj said:
Did the Fords have external lockouts? I thought that was a Dodge thing only.
as far as I know Dodge only. BUT, I think he means just locking hubs period??? Yes, locking hubs are better than auto hubs, but (again search and you'll find more info) external locking hubs are not nearly as desirable as internal locking hubs. Internal have tons more options and I've heard (no first hand experience with external) internal are stronger as well. Most 60s (until recent years) have Locking hubs already anyways.mbryson said:
When it comes time to install them, I know that in the front I will have to outboard the spring hangers, deal with steering issues, drivelines, etc. Anyone know of anything else that I may run into?
And as far as the rear 60 goes, if it is from a 78-79, from what I have read it looks like it will be 30 spline (and the front will have 35 spline inners)? I figure that should be strong enough for 37's, but what if I go to 40's? Right now I am running SOA with 2" springs on the front, and XJ stockers in the rear. I have heard that with a comp cut (like I have) that I should be able to clear 40's with full width axles, but with only gaining about 5" per side, that looks unlikely to me.
And as far as the rear 60 goes, if it is from a 78-79, from what I have read it looks like it will be 30 spline (and the front will have 35 spline inners)? I figure that should be strong enough for 37's, but what if I go to 40's? Right now I am running SOA with 2" springs on the front, and XJ stockers in the rear. I have heard that with a comp cut (like I have) that I should be able to clear 40's with full width axles, but with only gaining about 5" per side, that looks unlikely to me.
If you get an earlier 60 (78-79) then you should be able to just bolt it in on the front, if you get a later (mine was an 86) then you will have to outboard the springs.
The splines, youa re correct, most typically you will have 30 outers and 35 inners. I'd run it as is till it becomes a problem. It may never depending on how you drive. Then if it does become a problem decide to either go 35 outers or alloys or both. If you can't clear 40s with with 2" springs SOA then your springs are prolly super saggy. I had 2" springs on mine with 38s and I had TONS of room to spare (comp cut in the rear like yours). I'll see if I can find a pic, but I had lots of room.
EDIT: Pic (I know it's small)
The splines, youa re correct, most typically you will have 30 outers and 35 inners. I'd run it as is till it becomes a problem. It may never depending on how you drive. Then if it does become a problem decide to either go 35 outers or alloys or both. If you can't clear 40s with with 2" springs SOA then your springs are prolly super saggy. I had 2" springs on mine with 38s and I had TONS of room to spare (comp cut in the rear like yours). I'll see if I can find a pic, but I had lots of room.
EDIT: Pic
(I know it's small)
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Thanks Super. I dont think that I will have a problem clearing them in the rear, but probably in the front. I have also fabbed up some 2" dia tubing aruond my fenders, sort of for protection/flares. I am thinking that I may have to redo those, otherwise I will rub on those. Right now I have moved my front axle forward about 1", and with 35's I still rub on the back of my fender. Guess I could just take that whole section out though if I needed to.