Garage wall sheeting & storage ideas
- Thread starter Pike2350
- Start date
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
I don't know what wranglerstar is
Protect and cherish your ignorance. You don't want to know.
No way, that dudes awesome. He's my internet dad.
I don't know what wranglerstar is
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I just completed a storage idea yesterday. Seems to work pretty well.
new garage I didn’t want all this junk just standing in a corner. So I threw it under this overhang that cantilevers my office, wait, my wife’s office into the garage space.
Something needs done with this pile of junk.
We start with a motorcycle cart. (Amazon link: Venom Motorcycle Center Stand Mover Dolly Cruiser Park For Honda GL Goldwing Gold Wing Magna https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z02JXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_L9CcaILjXw1HL ) and quarter it up.
We then sort through our scrap for donors to lengthen and widen the cart.
I'm not sure what project these sticks were for but they aren't really anything I can see me using again. I will use the square tube to lengthen the motorcycle cart and the round tube to widen it and for sides.
That cheap powercoat is kind of a bitch to get off to get a good weld.
This could turn out pretty decent?
I do kind of need some mid verticals but for now it'll work with the materials I am storing.
Add some appliance black from Lowes.
load up the cart for testing... turned out well enough I just pushed it under the cantilever.
Looks like it could work out pretty well. The cart ended up costing me almost as much as decent casters. Here's for hoping the cart casters are of decent Chinese quality.
new garage I didn’t want all this junk just standing in a corner. So I threw it under this overhang that cantilevers my office, wait, my wife’s office into the garage space.
Something needs done with this pile of junk.
We start with a motorcycle cart. (Amazon link: Venom Motorcycle Center Stand Mover Dolly Cruiser Park For Honda GL Goldwing Gold Wing Magna https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z02JXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_L9CcaILjXw1HL ) and quarter it up.
We then sort through our scrap for donors to lengthen and widen the cart.
I'm not sure what project these sticks were for but they aren't really anything I can see me using again. I will use the square tube to lengthen the motorcycle cart and the round tube to widen it and for sides.
That cheap powercoat is kind of a bitch to get off to get a good weld.
This could turn out pretty decent?
I do kind of need some mid verticals but for now it'll work with the materials I am storing.
Add some appliance black from Lowes.
load up the cart for testing... turned out well enough I just pushed it under the cantilever.
Looks like it could work out pretty well. The cart ended up costing me almost as much as decent casters. Here's for hoping the cart casters are of decent Chinese quality.
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Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
So I have a question...and I am possibly overthinking it.
I plan on putting a small 6gal pancake compressor above the cabinet to the right of the garage door. My question is, do you think the cabinet mounts will be enough to hold it, or should I add brackets above?
the cabinets are free floating and attached to strips of OSB that is fastened to the studs. The self the compressor will sit on has to overhang the front of the cabinet by about 5". The compressor is surprisingly light, but at the same time with vibrations, I am just wondering if some L brackets or some sort of HD shelf bracket on the top side of the shelf would be needed?
Also, I planned on running a PVC pipe down the side of the cabinet for my quick connect point for the air hose. Since the compressor is only 150psi, will PVC be enough or do I need to look at other options?
Last question. I have my shopvac mounted on the other side of the door on it's wall mount. I'm thinking of using PVC to make it be more versatile and not have to have an ultra long hose (well longer then say 20') Is PVC ok to use here? Any suggestions? I mainly want to make it so I can plug the vacuum into the PVC pipe to make me have a hose connection on the back wall of the garage, while still having the hose up front for cleaning out cars easier and such.
I plan on putting a small 6gal pancake compressor above the cabinet to the right of the garage door. My question is, do you think the cabinet mounts will be enough to hold it, or should I add brackets above?
the cabinets are free floating and attached to strips of OSB that is fastened to the studs. The self the compressor will sit on has to overhang the front of the cabinet by about 5". The compressor is surprisingly light, but at the same time with vibrations, I am just wondering if some L brackets or some sort of HD shelf bracket on the top side of the shelf would be needed?
Also, I planned on running a PVC pipe down the side of the cabinet for my quick connect point for the air hose. Since the compressor is only 150psi, will PVC be enough or do I need to look at other options?
Last question. I have my shopvac mounted on the other side of the door on it's wall mount. I'm thinking of using PVC to make it be more versatile and not have to have an ultra long hose (well longer then say 20') Is PVC ok to use here? Any suggestions? I mainly want to make it so I can plug the vacuum into the PVC pipe to make me have a hose connection on the back wall of the garage, while still having the hose up front for cleaning out cars easier and such.
- Location
- Draper, UT
Never use PVC pipe for air lines. When it fails you get shrapnel. Copper pipe works fine, Black iron works fine, and specific Pex airline kits work fine.
I used black pipe for the short run of line to the regulator, filter, and hose reel (on the other side of the wall). The compressor sits on vibration isolation bushings and I isolated the connection to the black pipe fastened to the wall with a short length of pre-fabbed hydraulic hose.
I used black pipe for the short run of line to the regulator, filter, and hose reel (on the other side of the wall). The compressor sits on vibration isolation bushings and I isolated the connection to the black pipe fastened to the wall with a short length of pre-fabbed hydraulic hose.
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- Location
- West Haven, UT
I would not mount the compressor directly to the cabinet. The vibration from the compressor will make everything loose in time. Some sort of mount incorporating vibration pads would be best.
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
PVC will be fine for the vacuum. Central vacuums use thin wall PVC.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
Seriously, don’t even think about it! I’ve got some nasty horror stories of exploding pvc
- Location
- Draper, UT
I tried breaking up a couple of sticks of PVC so I could put them in the trash barrel. A saw was too much work so I smacked them on the curb to break them and ended up with a chunk stuck in my forehead and 20min work collecting the pieces.
I hate to think what it would do with 150psi behind it.
I hate to think what it would do with 150psi behind it.
DesertRam
Active Member
- Location
- Southern New Mexico
I work with engineers who specialize in designing pressure systems for the space program. They state emphatically not to use PVC for compressed air. One reason is that oil in oiled compressors will degrade the pipe and result in failure. Even with oilless compressors, PVC still becomes brittle over time and exposure to elements and will fail. Those failures are often catastrophic. They recommend ABS in a pinch, but PEX or steel is way better.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I have PVC ran in my shop that the previous owner plumbed for compressed air... have been looking at something like this to replace it. - https://www.amazon.com/Maxline-M750...=1&keywords=airline+pex&qid=1609435969&sr=8-1
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
Thanks guys.
I won't run PVC. I just wasn't sure since I only really plan on running a 5' piece or so from the top of the cabinet down the side for a connection point...although I have debated doing 1 line to the center ceiling by the garage door opener for a retractable hose...but I don't use air for much ever...so I wasn't sure. I do have PEX and crimper tool, so I will go that route. What size is recommended? 3/4"?
What about the shelf and supports? anything needed there?
Last question. For shelving I'm using 3/4" plywood (not high end, I believe pine) Anyway, i was going to finish it somehow just to make it less likely to soak up oil or any other stuff...plus making it easier to wipe down and dust off...any suggestions there? Just a stain or epoxy/laquer?
I won't run PVC. I just wasn't sure since I only really plan on running a 5' piece or so from the top of the cabinet down the side for a connection point...although I have debated doing 1 line to the center ceiling by the garage door opener for a retractable hose...but I don't use air for much ever...so I wasn't sure. I do have PEX and crimper tool, so I will go that route. What size is recommended? 3/4"?
What about the shelf and supports? anything needed there?
Last question. For shelving I'm using 3/4" plywood (not high end, I believe pine) Anyway, i was going to finish it somehow just to make it less likely to soak up oil or any other stuff...plus making it easier to wipe down and dust off...any suggestions there? Just a stain or epoxy/laquer?
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I have this kit
One of these years, I might even install it.
I would say 1/2" is plenty for your application.
For plywood benches, I have used masonite to top the plywood on several occasions and it works great. Cheap and easily replaced too.
One of these years, I might even install it.
I would say 1/2" is plenty for your application.
For plywood benches, I have used masonite to top the plywood on several occasions and it works great. Cheap and easily replaced too.
- Location
- Draper, UT
or double the plywood layer and wrap in sheet metal..
until I got the fixture table I used the 2'x4' plywood top on my workbench to screw down welding fixtures (mostly wood blocks).
Yep it got burned a bit but never caught fire.