Gawynz Manche Thread

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Maybe the least fun part of the project thus far, cleaning and replacing all the seals on the 30+yr oil soaked 4.0. Replaced the seals on the valve cover, distributor, oil filter adapter, oil pan, and rear main. I used Felpro molded rubber gaskets which seem great. All of the seals were very dry/missing, I don't know if they'd ever been changed. While I was there I put in a new oil pump. I think the main point of the leaking oil was the distributor base as it had no gasket and the wrong length bolt in it, about 0.25" too long, it bottomed out and the distributor wasn't even tight, just kind of rattling around in there. I found that there were two missing bolts on the power steering pump, so got that corrected and put on a new belt. My guess is the PO replaced the distributor and power steering pump about 80% ha.

I have no idea how long this engine has sat but inspecting the oil pan and below the valve cover it's pretty crusty. I scraped and cleaned the sludge and crusty cooked oil almost as much as I could reach. I put some cheap oil and a new filter in it. My thought was maybe an oil additive to help break it up and clean it out? I don't know, we'll just see how it does.

Got all my exhaust pieces in, this weeks goal is to wrap that up.

Also, my brake lights don't work after I did the WJ swap, I think I drilled the rod hole a tad too small so the switch isn't functioning properly, so I have to figure that out.
 

YJ_Auzzy

Respect My Authoritay!
Location
Richfield Utah
Swap a quart of oil for some ATF, the detergents will help break up a lot of the stuff and flush it out.

This works good, did it to my yjs motor often back in the day. then there's stuff like hotshot secrets stiction eliminator, I've used this on my duramax. Turned my brown oil black from all the crud it freed up. Did it at the end of the last two oil changes. I'm 3k into the current oil change and its still pretty golden.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Started on the exhaust. The downpipe is all the truck had and the back end was torn (?) off. I cut off and cleaned up the end a bit and started cutting/tacking things together. My plan is for the exhaust to separate just in front of the trans mount. I'll use the factory hanger locations and add one near the trans mount if needed.

Thoughts on painting the exhaust to protect it a bit? My plan was to finish cleaning up the downpipe and paint all the tubes with VHT header primer and paint in an attempt to make it last... just not sure if it's worth it, the new tubes are "409-SS" from Summit.

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YJ_Auzzy

Respect My Authoritay!
Location
Richfield Utah
Started on the exhaust. The downpipe is all the truck had and the back end was torn (?) off. I cut off and cleaned up the end a bit and started cutting/tacking things together. My plan is for the exhaust to separate just in front of the trans mount. I'll use the factory hanger locations and add one near the trans mount if needed.

Thoughts on painting the exhaust to protect it a bit? My plan was to finish cleaning up the downpipe and paint all the tubes with VHT header primer and paint in an attempt to make it last... just not sure if it's worth it, the new tubes are "409-SS" from Summit.

View attachment 153714

If ya do use header or bbq paint and clean it really good or it won't stick for crud. I've done it in the past and it did okay. Also with that flex coupler I'd put another vband on the forward side. If ya can't preload them during install they start separating and leaking quickly. That's why I recommend the vbands so its easily changed. Personally on a rig like this where the drivetrain isn't solid mounted and the exhaust is hanging on rubbers I think you'd be fine with out it cause the whole system will flex across the board.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Tic'n and a tac'n, I think I've got it pretty close to pull out and finish weld. I can't decide if I want it to dump out the back or the side, the end piece in the pic is just scrap. I fired it up and it sounds much better obviously, not great but pretty good for a 4.0.

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bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
I vote for a rear exit tailpipe.

For the paint, I don't think it'll hurt anything, but certainly don't expect it to hold up on the cat. It may fare OK on the rest of the exhaust. I used it on a buggy exhaust w/ no cat and it actually stayed pretty nice for a few years. Granted, it was a buggy that saw zero road salt, and hardly ever got wet.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Finish welded everything today. I think I'm going to add a hanger just forward of the cat, but I'm pretty happy with it. I tweaked the factory hangers a bit to tuck it tighter. Mig with 0.023 worked great once I got it dialed in on some scrap (at least as good as I can do). I dumped it straight out the back and left it a little long so that once I figure out the bumper I can tweak it. Plan is to paint all the tubes but leave the flex/cat/muffler unpainted.

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Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
I idled the last of the old gas through the truck until it died, I have no idea how long it's been in there, but at least a few years. Chased it with some fresh gas and injector/engine cleaner and put about 5 miles on it just driving around the neighborhood, obviously it ran way better.

Drained the transmission and t-case, just waiting on fluids to show up.

So now electrical, I'd say about 60% of the lights work. I pulled every bulb except for the headlights which seem to be ok and got replacements on order. There was grease present, but all the old bulbs were so corroded they broke off and had to be mangled out of the socket with pliers. There is a slew of wires cut and sockets disconnected under the dash, and this little truck is a pain to crawl around in, so I pulled the seats, lower dash, and trim. Pulling the interior will make it much easier to work under the dash and while I'm this far I have a few plans:
  • Figure out all the wiring that's cut or disconnected and clean it up. You can tell there used to be a CB mounted, an aftermarket headset, and I don't know what else.
  • All the interior panels are in great shape, including the dash... that is until I set a back cab corner panel on the ground, forgot it was there, stepped on it and cracked it :mad:. It's not too bad, I'll use some JB kwik weld on the back side and I doubt anyone will be able to tell, just pisses you off.
  • Pull the old gross carpet and replace w/ a pre-molded vinyl replacement, I was actually surprised there are a decent amount of options for this truck at a decent price.
  • Add a simple/decent single DIN stereo with bluetooth capability and replace the door/cab (4) speakers.
So far I'm +8 22LR rounds and +$0.32. It's been a while since I've driven a truck with an ash tray... maybe as a child my young mind was influenced by the cool Malboro/Camel ads, but having a few butts rolling around in the ash tray just makes me feel cool... I think I'll take up smoking when I start driving this rig 🚬

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Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Changed my mind on the floor material, I'm going with carpet for a couple reasons 1) concerned about trapping moisture under the vinyl and 2) carpet is quite a bit cheaper.

I'm excited to start using my new bender, going to start w/ bumpers, to do the front bumper I need a winch. Currently there is a pretty good deal on a new Warn VR Evo 8 on KSL, and I keep getting tempted, but I think part of it is I just want a "Warn" sticker ha. Warn is cool, the Evo is their lower tier, but even then I don't think I need it for this rig. I can get a new Smittybuilt XRC 9500 Gen 2 for $250 delivered to my door, which is less than half the price of a new Evo 8. The XRC 9500 Gen 2 is the exact same winch I have on my buggy and it's fine/works, not trick or quite so nice as a Warn probably but it's fine. For this Jeep I think the Smittybuilt will be good enough so I'm leaning that direction unless someone can change my mind ha. Also, I've read the "which winch?" RME thread a couple times and that was very helpful, so thanks all.
 

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
Welp, other than the dash I've about completely disassembled the interior.
  • I'm pretty happy/not too bummed about the amount of rust under the carpet. Plenty of solid steel, I'm in the process of cleaning it up with a wire wheel and then I'll paint the entire floor pan w/ left over POR-15 that I used on the axles.
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  • Got my replacement audio.
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  • Something I didn't expect... manual crank windows are not terribly common. My passenger side window had a "dead spot" where it would not roll up or down without lifting the window with my other hand helping it for ~3". Drilled out the rivits and pulled the window regulator and disassembled the crank system (which looked good) but found the "dead spot" in the push/pull spring where the spring is just gapped. Went to order one and couldn't find anything, nobody makes a new replacement. I found used individual regulators on ebay for as much as $200+! Looking at pictures, my guess was a motor driven regulator used the same push/pull spring in the track (never confirmed this), so I headed off to the junk yard, luckily for me I came across this 1989 XJ with manual windows, I pulled both the driver and passenger sides for $22 and they're in way better shape. I was able to pull a bunch of other odds and ends off this jeep as well.
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  • Fixed all the lights, had to swap out a couple connectors/sockets, a relay, and some fuses but all in all pretty easy.
  • Interior plan:
    • Charcoal carpet, clean up and use the old under carpet insulation as it's in pretty good shape.
    • Make my own door panels out of 1/4" plywood, epoxy coat, then cover with vinyl interior, medium grey (the old panels are trash).
    • Patch up and cover the headliner board, medium grey.
  • Need to figure out the parking brake, the pedal mechanism is pretty mangled and again they're not easy to find. Also need to figure out how to connect to the 8.8, but from what I've read that shouldn't be too bad.
 
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