Glockman's Rubi LJ

Updating the build thread after oh 7 years.

Specs
2006 Rubicon LJ
2003 5.3 LS
4l60E
NP241C with JB conversions SYE and 1310 flange
Novak Cable shifter.
Magnaflow exhaust
Swap details LS swap for the LJ


Teraflex lcg lift
Teraflex short front Upper control arms.
4" Teraflex springs
1" body lift and tummy tuck
Metal cloak track bars front and rear.
Teraflex Speed bumps Front and rear. Custom mounted in the frame on the rear. Details Here
Teraflex dual rate front sway bar.


Falcon TJ shocks
Currie Correctlync steering

37x12.50 R17 BFG KM2's on aluminum modular wheels.
1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers

Factory lockers front and rear
4.88 gears
Chromoly shafts in the rear
RCV's up front
Teraflex HD diff cover on the front.
LCA skids


JCR Aluminum Hi lined fenders.
Currie front bumper with grill hoop
Warn 9.5Ti
Rear crusher corners (unknown brand)
Warn rock sliders.


Rigid 2x2 spots on Hella A pillar mounts
Amazon special LED headlights
LED tail lights -Tractor supply style
Sport cage


When I bought it



Current pic



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[N-Smooth]

I have an old heim that I cover in antiseize and leave in while welding the tube adapters. That’s given me the best results FWIW

 

[glockman]

Picked up some new tube adapters at Midnight. Everything welded fine. New large taper rod ends from Teraflex and this is where I am.



So Chevy taper tie rods are too small and don't bottom out in the knuckle. The TF rod ends are tight but go too far out of the knuckle. I verified that I ordered large taper rod ends. So what am I missing here.

 

[Hickey]

Picked up some new tube adapters at Midnight. Everything welded fine. New large taper rod ends from Teraflex and this is where I am.

View attachment 171545

So Chevy taper tie rods are too small and don't bottom out in the knuckle. The TF rod ends are tight but go too far out of the knuckle. I verified that I ordered large taper rod ends. So what am I missing here.

When you say Chevy taper, do you mean Chevy 1-ton taper?

 

[glockman]

When you say Chevy taper, do you mean Chevy 1-ton taper?

Yes ES2234L and ES2234R are the Chevy 1 ton taper ends I originally tried. They were loose.

 

[I Lean]

I think ES2010 R and L are the bigger ones, but that should match the Tera ends. (or at least it used to....)

You can put a spacer under the nut to make it all snug up properly. That is usually a hardened washer or two, but in your case it looks like there's a bit more space than I would expect. 🤷‍♂️

 

[Herzog]

Yea, not ideal but if the taper is fitting proper you could use a spacer on the bottom. The top spacing looks correct. It's almost as if the arm is too thin. I would rather the taper sit deep like that, less leverage to wobble out the taper.

I'd personally think about welding a thick bung/spacer on the bottom and ream it to match the taper... but in reality I'd probably just toss a spacer in. Or drill out and use heims

 

[Hickey]

I'd personally think about welding a thick bung/spacer on the bottom and ream it to match the taper... but in reality I'd probably just toss a spacer in. Or drill out and use heims

I’d likely go one of these routes as well.

Teraflex states that these can be used with these sleeves after you drill out the knuckle to 0.875.

https://teraflex.com/dodge-dana-60-tie-rod-drag-link-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve-0-875-o-d-each.html

 

[glockman]

I’d likely go one of these routes as well.

Teraflex states that these can be used with these sleeves after you drill out the knuckle to 0.875.

https://teraflex.com/dodge-dana-60-tie-rod-drag-link-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve-0-875-o-d-each.html

That's the way in leaning. Drill the knuckles out to 7/8 and use the inserts.

 

[glockman]

Randy at midnight convinced me to go the spacer route. So I put weld washers on the bottom to take up the extra stud length. I may weld them on later or do like Shane says and intend to but never get around to it. At any rate, it's back together. Brakes sooo much better but still needs sway bar end links and a better alignment.

 

[glockman]

Last night I centered the front and rear axles, verified both are square with the frame and did a better tow adjustment (1/8" tow in). Went back through re-torqued most of the fasteners and took it for another drive. Miles better even with no sway bar. It will even lock up the front tires now!!
I used Nate's alignment guide and found it pretty helpful.

I drove it to work today hitting every pothole and smiling at the lack of bump steer. When I got out of it at work, I noticed the tags expired in February. Damned monthly payment to the state for vehicle registration is getting old!