Jeep Gregs Willys CJ2a, rusto-mod version

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
since you like the way it looks, can you use a gas tank sealant such as POR-15 on the one you have?
I just put some JB Weld on it, waiting to see if it will seal up the hole. The internal gas tank sealant is a good idea, I know it get used for vintage steel motorcycle tanks a lot. Good idea!

I left two gas cans in Moab last weekend for you. I'm leaving Wyoming today for EJS and will be there through big Saturday.
Awesome, hopefully we can get together and pick them up!
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
Finally wrapped up all the work I was trying to get done, before EJS! X-D

I ran into some problems with the stock accelerator linkage and the new/rebuilt Ford Motorcraft 2100 carb. I swapped the 2100 on, as the Rochester 2 Jet wasn't too happy on inclines and bouncing around offroad. The 2100 is known to be one of the best offroad carbs and a few simple mods can make it run very well on steep inclines and when bouncing around. Getting the carb on was easy, I had to use an throttle body adapter though.











Once it was in place and the accelerator was hooked up, pushing the pedal wasn't easy at all.... matter of fact, it took so much force that the throttle was like an On/Off switch... there was no easing into it. All this happened days before EJS (which I was planning on taking the CJ2a to) and I spent a lot of time sorting it out, when I wanted to be installing the rear LockRite. Sadly, no matter what I tried (making linkage longer at pivot point, doubling the length of the pedal, etc) it didn't change... the Willys wasn't going to make EJS this year. :(

I ended up ordering some universal Hot Rod parts to swap to a cable accelerator and fancy, chrome (yuk!!) pedal. When I finally had everything, getting it all mounted up and working took a couple hours and now I had a smooth accelerator again!










I had to change out the air filter to a bigger one that fit the carb and needed something low-profile that would clear the hood. Now I HATE these style air filters, but it's compact, low-profile and fit. :( I've heard that one back-fire and the foam filter will melt... X-D




Next up.... and about damn time, I installed the LockRite! You have to remove the carrier and take the ring gear off the carrier, in order to remove the centering pin that holds the spider gears in place. It was a good bit of work, considering pulling the 2 piece shafts apart, disconnecting the rear brake lines at the backing plate, etc. Once the rear axle was apart though, the install went pretty quick. I've installed LockRites before, use plenty of grease to hold parts in place and it won't fight you as much!







I painted the diff cover, and put it all back together, carefully torquing down the carrier caps. Still need to bleed the brakes again, but hopefully I can get out for a test drive later today! :cool:

I'm planning to get the Willys to Moab for next weekends April RME trip!
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
Had a very successful test with the 2100 and LockRite! The carb needs some tuning, I need to check the float level and probably drop it a little. Still, it's better than the Rochester 2 Jet that was on there. As is, it ALMOST idles right up some pretty steep climbs. :eek: You can see my new, non-leaky gas can in the back that I got from @RustEoldtrux .

The LockRite is almost invisible, other than tires barking on hard turns under power.... every now and again when getting on/off the throttle, you feel a little wiggle from the rearend. Makes driving a short Willys with worn out steering & suspension parts even more exciting!









 
Last edited:

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
So in preparation for the Moab trip, I decided proper recovery mounts were in order F & R. I noticed that almost every ledge I drove off, the rear hitch-mount would hit and drag. The rear hitch crossmember is super beefy and has decent clearance, so I decided to keep it and drill out the 2 outside holes, just big enough to get a 3/4" D ring into.

The front had some massive, ugly mounts that I'm sure were for a tow bar. They were too wide for getting a D ring onto and the holes were tiny, but after some drilling and grinding, then hammering to bring them in, I'm able to run 3/4" D rings on the front too. I may run a thick weld down the front joint of the former tow bar mounts. They look ugly, but I'm sure they'll be plenty strong.








And the front...







 

smfulle

Active Member
Location
Plain City, UT
Those rear d-rings are going to take a beating. I leave mine in the recovery bag until I need them.
That rear draw bar does drag on a lot of ledges, but I decided that it can take it better than my spring shackles.
Those d-rings hanging down a few more inches are going to scrape a lot.
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
Those rear d-rings are going to take a beating. I leave mine in the recovery bag until I need them.
That rear draw bar does drag on a lot of ledges, but I decided that it can take it better than my spring shackles.
Those d-rings hanging down a few more inches are going to scrape a lot.
Yeah, they're not going to stay back there... just took a pic of them in place. I will probably leave the fronts in place, can use them to tie down the Willys. If they make too much noise, then I'll toss 'em in the recovery bag.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Premium Member
Location
West Jordan
Nice! Make sure you torque the nuts on the 2-piece rear shafts properly... Most of the reason that 2-piece shafts have a bad rap is because people don't torque them properly. IIRC, torque on the later AMC20 axles is 250+ for used parts, and over 450# if you're cutting new splines into a new flange. I'm sure your Dana 41(?) is similar.

Different note - are the bolts on your rear shackles loose? I see gaps under the bolt head, and between the spacer and plate in a couple of your pics.
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
Nice! Make sure you torque the nuts on the 2-piece rear shafts properly... Most of the reason that 2-piece shafts have a bad rap is because people don't torque them properly. IIRC, torque on the later AMC20 axles is 250+ for used parts, and over 450# if you're cutting new splines into a new flange. I'm sure your Dana 41(?) is similar.

Different note - are the bolts on your rear shackles loose? I see gaps under the bolt head, and between the spacer and plate in a couple of your pics.
The Dana 41 specs 150-175 ft/lbs, if I've read correctly. My torque wrench doesn't go that high, but I'm thinking my Dewalt 18V impact does. Now that I'm locked in the rear, I'll be pulling the cap and checking the nuts on the axle often. I know they tend to back off, after a locker install.

The center bolts and the spacer in the shackles are loose on a couple of them. The bolts for the spring and hanger are tight against the bushing, but the spacer in the center is shorter and therefore not able to be tightened without putting the shackle in a bind, as well as bending it. The nuts are locking, so they're not going anywhere.
 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
I don't remember if I mentioned it but every time I look at this thread I get triggered. We had a 1960-ish cj5 that was the same yellow color that we zipped all over the west side gravel pits in in high school. It'd go 40 mph only downhill and had really bad blow by but it was a blast. My parents sold it while I was on my lds mission.
 
Top