redrussell
Active Member
Sort of a brag board I guess you could say. Be able to describe weapon, like barrel, twist action etc as well as all the specs on the ammo as well, might help someone else who is having a problem.
Groups and zeros
- Thread starter redrussell
- Start date
DAA
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
My two current favorite coyote hunting rigs.
.17 Predator (.223 necked down, shoulder moved forward and blown out to 30*, body taper reduced etc.), w/.197 neck, 1.5 degree lead and zero freebore.
Model Seven donor action, fully blueprinted, double pinned thick lug, bolt bushed etc. by Greg Tannel.
Had the Rem. factory trigger worked by Neil Jones back when the world was still young, it's at 24 oz.
Lilja #4, 10 twist, crowned at 24"
McMillan Rem. Classic, pillar bedded
Leupold 4.5-14x40 in Burris Sig. rings
Working load is a custom 30 gr. boat tail leaving the muzzle at 4080 fps
All my predator rigs are zeroed for MPBR on a 4" target, putting the .17P about 1.75" high at 100 yards, dead on at 325 yards, 6" low at 400. It's genuine hold on fur to 400, which makes is a simple point and shoot affair on stand.
I'm not much of a paper puncher and actually avoid it with my hot rods. Basically, I work up a load, I get zeroed, then I might check zero once every two years after that. I build these things for killing stuff and while I don't mind wearing out barrels, I prefer not wasting barrel life on stuff that doesn't bleed. All that said, I've shot enough paper with this rifle to know it will agg in the low 4's with five shot groups. Tight ragged holes are expected. It's a legitimate sub .5MOA rifle. Below is a typical group, eight shots from a cold clean barrel, with the cartridge itself featured prominently.
This rifle is just almost too much fun to use on coyote. Recoil is non existent, incredibly flat mid range trajectory, superb accuracy, folds up coyotes like cheap lawn chairs while putting scarcely a mark on them. It's the closest thing to a perfect fur rifle for my purposes I have used to date - and I've used a lot of them...
And some glamor shots from the field.
My other current favorite coyote hunting rig:
6-284 (.284 Win. necked down to .243), w/.272 neck 1.5 degree lead and zero freebore
Nesika T w/Rem. tang, Rem. trigger pins, tacticool shifter knob, BDL bottom metal and magazine, thick lug (double pinned)
Jewel HVR w/top safety @ 28 oz.
Lilja #4, 13 twist, crowned at 25"
McMillan Rem. Classic, pillar bedded
Zeiss 4.5-14x44 in Talley rings
Working load is a 55 NBT leaving the muzzle at over 4200 fps
MPBR on a 4" target, puts this one about 1.6 high at 100 yards, dead on at 335 yards, 6" low at 400. Again, genuine hold on fur to 400, point and shoot deal. Delivering about 1,000 ft/lbs at 400 yards, and just laser beam flat, but minimal recoil that allows seeing hits through the scope, this rig is pure hell on wheels for coyote. It really is just a freaking death ray on them.
I only shoot three shot groups with this one, that barrel gets real hot, real fast, but with the working load, it prints three shot bugholes in the 2's and 3's - the average of all the groups I've ever shot with it using that load is about .325 @ 100 yards. Another genuine sub .5 MOA rifle. But again, punching paper just bores me to death, I do it as little as possible.
Just a couple pics of the rifle in progress (had two barrels chambered at the same time, the other is a .20-250) and a couple glamor shots from the field.
- DAA
.17 Predator (.223 necked down, shoulder moved forward and blown out to 30*, body taper reduced etc.), w/.197 neck, 1.5 degree lead and zero freebore.
Model Seven donor action, fully blueprinted, double pinned thick lug, bolt bushed etc. by Greg Tannel.
Had the Rem. factory trigger worked by Neil Jones back when the world was still young, it's at 24 oz.
Lilja #4, 10 twist, crowned at 24"
McMillan Rem. Classic, pillar bedded
Leupold 4.5-14x40 in Burris Sig. rings
Working load is a custom 30 gr. boat tail leaving the muzzle at 4080 fps
All my predator rigs are zeroed for MPBR on a 4" target, putting the .17P about 1.75" high at 100 yards, dead on at 325 yards, 6" low at 400. It's genuine hold on fur to 400, which makes is a simple point and shoot affair on stand.
I'm not much of a paper puncher and actually avoid it with my hot rods. Basically, I work up a load, I get zeroed, then I might check zero once every two years after that. I build these things for killing stuff and while I don't mind wearing out barrels, I prefer not wasting barrel life on stuff that doesn't bleed. All that said, I've shot enough paper with this rifle to know it will agg in the low 4's with five shot groups. Tight ragged holes are expected. It's a legitimate sub .5MOA rifle. Below is a typical group, eight shots from a cold clean barrel, with the cartridge itself featured prominently.
This rifle is just almost too much fun to use on coyote. Recoil is non existent, incredibly flat mid range trajectory, superb accuracy, folds up coyotes like cheap lawn chairs while putting scarcely a mark on them. It's the closest thing to a perfect fur rifle for my purposes I have used to date - and I've used a lot of them...
And some glamor shots from the field.
My other current favorite coyote hunting rig:
6-284 (.284 Win. necked down to .243), w/.272 neck 1.5 degree lead and zero freebore
Nesika T w/Rem. tang, Rem. trigger pins, tacticool shifter knob, BDL bottom metal and magazine, thick lug (double pinned)
Jewel HVR w/top safety @ 28 oz.
Lilja #4, 13 twist, crowned at 25"
McMillan Rem. Classic, pillar bedded
Zeiss 4.5-14x44 in Talley rings
Working load is a 55 NBT leaving the muzzle at over 4200 fps
MPBR on a 4" target, puts this one about 1.6 high at 100 yards, dead on at 335 yards, 6" low at 400. Again, genuine hold on fur to 400, point and shoot deal. Delivering about 1,000 ft/lbs at 400 yards, and just laser beam flat, but minimal recoil that allows seeing hits through the scope, this rig is pure hell on wheels for coyote. It really is just a freaking death ray on them.
I only shoot three shot groups with this one, that barrel gets real hot, real fast, but with the working load, it prints three shot bugholes in the 2's and 3's - the average of all the groups I've ever shot with it using that load is about .325 @ 100 yards. Another genuine sub .5 MOA rifle. But again, punching paper just bores me to death, I do it as little as possible.
Just a couple pics of the rifle in progress (had two barrels chambered at the same time, the other is a .20-250) and a couple glamor shots from the field.
- DAA
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Dave, that .17 is really intriguing. Is that just a normal .223 case that is resized with your die? There might be a lot more to it than that?
DAA
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
Not too much more to it than that. It's a wildcat that requires fireforming. So, basically, start by necking it down from .224 to .172, then fireform it in the rifle chamber and it comes out with the shoulder moved forward, the shoulder angle steepened, the body taper reduced etc. ("blown out" in wildcatter parlance, as in "necked down, blown out .223"), all of which increases internal case volume for more boiler room to increase velocity.
After fireforming, I just neck size only for reloading. I do have a custom made FL die, but, have never needed to use it. With my working load and the lot of IMI brass I'm using, primer pockets will get loose before bolt effort requires FL sizing or a shoulder bump.
I had it built before the .204 Ruger existed. These days, when guys ask, I usually tell them to just do a straight .17-204 instead. It's simpler in terms of finding dies off the shelf etc. and actually has even more capacity for even greater performance. I'm not 100% sold on any of the commercially available .204 brass though, and I always build a project around brass in hand that is of known superb quality. I use an old lot of IMI for the .17P and Lapua .284 case for the Big Six.
- DAA
After fireforming, I just neck size only for reloading. I do have a custom made FL die, but, have never needed to use it. With my working load and the lot of IMI brass I'm using, primer pockets will get loose before bolt effort requires FL sizing or a shoulder bump.
I had it built before the .204 Ruger existed. These days, when guys ask, I usually tell them to just do a straight .17-204 instead. It's simpler in terms of finding dies off the shelf etc. and actually has even more capacity for even greater performance. I'm not 100% sold on any of the commercially available .204 brass though, and I always build a project around brass in hand that is of known superb quality. I use an old lot of IMI for the .17P and Lapua .284 case for the Big Six.
- DAA
D
Deleted member 12904
Guest
Kinda seems pointless to brag about killing the gopher in my back yard this year with my Henry lever action .22
DAA
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
I bet you do and you just don't realize it
. The rifle is going to hit wherever it's going to hit, you just adjust the sighting system to coincide with that point of impact. Nothing more to it.- DAA
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Nah, thats fun. My friend has 9 acres somewhere in Wasatch Co and we use 22 shorts because its in city limits so I wont mention the city. We have a riot gettting rid of the varmits there.
D
Deleted member 12904
Guest
Haha I shoot .22 cb because I assume it stands for city bullet.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I know a guy that will sight your rifle in, develop a load that shoots well in it and plot the scope reticle for a fee But that takes most of the fun out of it.
6-284 is a bad ass cartridge. Literally explodes Rock Chucks.
But that takes most of the fun out of it.6-284 is a bad ass cartridge. Literally explodes Rock Chucks.
I know a guy that will sight your rifle in, develop a load that shoots well in it and plot the scope reticle for a fee
6-284 is a bad ass cartridge. Literally explodes Rock Chucks.
How much of a fee?