How to mount RTT on pickup (Tacoma) bedsides?

[theferg]

I'm trying to find a good way to mount my tent about 8-10 inches above the topsides of the Tacoma bedsides and get the top of the closed tent about level with the top of the cab. Similar to what the FrontRunner Bakkie pickup bars (seen on Kurt's Tacoma) or Xsporter can do, but for a bit less money. I'm thinking maybe attach some tall gutter mount thule towers to the topsides of the Tacoma bed. I've seen where someone is using the rails of their soft tanneau cover and just attach some gutter mount towers to it and it looked slick, but I don't want to spend money on a tanneau cover just to get the rails to use for this--and I have no use for a tanneau cover.

My idea is to run the thule bars for carrying the tent but also for carrying bikes etc (nothing long like canoes or kayaks though). Maybe even at the same time if the fit isn't too wide. Again, I'm also wanting the bars about 8 inches or so above the topside of the bedsides.

Anybody got some good ideas for this? I don't have a welder or any good metal saws right now so custom isn't really going to work either (unless somebody around here wants to bend me a couple bends and weld me a couple welds...). I'm not totally stuck on Thule (don't care for yakima) stuff, but I've not found much else out there that might work--I am totally open for other ideas though.

So in looking around, I've found some thule artificial rain gutters that mount to a side or flat top surface that I think might work if the bolts are beefed up. #542 Thule Artificial Rain Gutters I'm thinking bolt them to the topside of the bedside and then use them with the thule #387 tall gutter mount towers (which have about 8" clearance). Could also use the thule #953 super high gutter mount towers which have 11" of clearance....

I figure if I can find the towers and bars used, this can be a very affordable way to mount the tent.

-Ferg-

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I was going to mention the Thule artificial gutters, I've seen them used for tents and racks on Tacomas, both above the bed and on the cab (Brent that bought my old Tacoma is using them on his rack above the cab). I'm using the Thule bars and mounts on my Trail-Trailer w/RTT, they do flex a bit but so far so good.

 

[theferg]

I actually ran out and picked up some artificial gutters last night....

What do you think about mounting them inverted and on the inside of the side of the bed? I would think it would end up putting a ton of stress on each of the two bolts...but I like the idea of it better. Not sure the gutter towers would actually work on them this way, but they might. I'm gonna find some and just see.

My reasoning is that with the artificial gutters mounted flat on top of the bedside, it looks like the towers are going to be hanging over the side of the bed--which I don't want. But maybe the little bit that hangs over is acceptable... I'll see when I find some towers to try out I guess.

-Ferg-

 

[Chevycrew]

There just might be enough of a lip for the tower to sit on and still be able to tighten over the channel part.

 

[Tacoma]

refer to Kurt's threads. I am not super-familiar with his setup, but I don't remember an unacceptable amount of overhang, if any.

 

[lewis]

If I were to do it again I would run some sort of rail all the way down my bed to distribute the load a little better. I used angle iron about 4 inches wide and if you look down the side of me bed there are ripples near the mounts. I noticed the same thing on others trucks as well. Not a huge deal but I would rather have my body panels be straight. The way I mounted mine is in my build thread.

 

[theferg]

Thanks for the replies. I would actually love to have something like what you've built there Lewis, maybe not quite as burly. Almost like a roll cage, but only half the height of the cab. I just might have to keep looking into something like that...

 

[theferg]

Buddy of mine found this one over on TacomaWorld from All-Pro. Nice to see somebody making something of this sort. Not too bad of price for what you're getting. I would love something like this but about half the height and less coin is always good too... Sorry if I'm a cheap bastid.

I'm really leaning towards building something. A good buddy of mine has a welder and tools so we're gonna try and make something up. Just don't have a tube bender.

http://www.allprooffroad.com/05tacomatrailarmor/tacomabedracks

 

[bryson]

I agree that the side-mount would put a lot of the stress on things. I'd imagine it puts all the stress on the bolts in shear, and would be very likely to stretch out/tear the holes in your bed as well.

You could just bolt a piece of flat steel to the top of the bed that extends inside the bed, and then bolt the mount to that so that it doesn't sit as far out on the rail. Does that make any sense?

That would likely require some cutting and drilling, but nothing beyond that...Go buy yourself a $9 HF grinder and a cut-off wheel.

I do like Lewis' full length (or at least longer than the mounts themselves) angle iron idea better though, and you could get the pieces pre-cut from Wasatch steel, and then all you have to do is drill some holes, and bolt it on.

I may be interested in helping you build up some sort of bed rack/cage though too... It could be very simple with just angle iron sides and some miter-cut square or round tubing for the spreaders. We'll build them, and let Kurt market and sell them. Let me know if you're interested.

 

[Taco4life]

Go buy yourself a $9 HF grinder and a cut-off wheel.

Isn't that every wheeler's first purchase? I swear the HF grinder is synonymous with the hi-lift jack when it comes to wheeling necessities.

 

[bryson]

Isn't that every wheeler's first purchase? I swear the HF grinder is synonymous with the hi-lift jack when it comes to wheeling necessities.

If it isn't, it should be.

 

[lewis]

Thanks for the replies. I would actually love to have something like what you've built there Lewis, maybe not quite as burly. Almost like a roll cage, but only half the height of the cab. I just might have to keep looking into something like that...

Mine isn't that burly. Its made out of 1-1/2" .095 wall and felt really light when I put it on. I have a tube bender if you need something bent. One cheap bastard to another.

 

[theferg]

Go buy yourself a $9 HF grinder and a cut-off wheel.

Isn't that every wheeler's first purchase? I swear the HF grinder is synonymous with the hi-lift jack when it comes to wheeling necessities.

Actually already have two 4.5" makitas sittin out in the garage.

I do like Lewis' full length (or at least longer than the mounts themselves) angle iron idea better though, and you could get the pieces pre-cut from Wasatch steel, and then all you have to do is drill some holes, and bolt it on.

I may be interested in helping you build up some sort of bed rack/cage though too... It could be very simple with just angle iron sides and some miter-cut square or round tubing for the spreaders. We'll build them, and let Kurt market and sell them. Let me know if you're interested.

Definitely interested. I've got a few other ideas that could be super cool to add on or integrate to a rack/cage for a pickup. Accessory type things. I'm thinking some sceptor can racks, and the usual hi-lift/shovel etc mount type stuff. Doesn't all have to go into an initial design though. Maybe I'll fire up my solid edge and try and come up with a few ideas.

Mine isn't that burly. Its made out of 1-1/2" .095 wall and felt really light when I put it on. I have a tube bender if you need something bent. One cheap bastard to another.

Thanks Lewis. I think a tube one would be a great solution. If we go that route, I'll def let you know.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...I may be interested in helping you build up some sort of bed rack/cage though too... It could be very simple with just angle iron sides and some miter-cut square or round tubing for the spreaders. We'll build them, and let Kurt market and sell them. Let me know if you're interested.

It would be easy to make, it would be very similar to the rack I helped Sully build albeit a lower height, angle on the bed sides, two hoops and spanners. I'd be interested in scoping something out however from a marketing standpoint there are already several lower height options on the market including the Bakkie Rack (made in South Afrika by Front Runner). While a 'Heavy Duty' tube one would be neat and all, its just extra weight, for example the Bakkie does the job at under 20 lbs and its far more adjustable than a tube version could be. Tube option would require welding, again no chore for a local but for Joe Smith in Vermont, he would then face paying $150-200 + paint to get it installed. For a customer one off build it makes sense. So even at a $300 price point its not going to save you anything over the Bakkie @ $475. And of course if one were interested the Bakkie is available from your favorite Overland gear outfitter (you better be thinking Cruiser Outfitters)

Bakkie for reference:

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I've got a few other ideas that could be super cool to add on or integrate to a rack/cage for a pickup. Accessory type things. I'm thinking some sceptor can racks, and the usual hi-lift/shovel etc mount type stuff...

Remember that you want to make easy access to your goods through the side of your rack. I've seen custom setups that have stuff strapped across the sides, High-Lifts, sand-ladders, shovels/axes, etc. some leaving zero easy access to the gear in your bed via the sides. If I had to unload everything through the back of the bed it would void the whole concept for me personally. Along with that higher gear means higher center of gravity, with the room one 'should' have in a pickup its my opinion that heavy things like fuel, fridges, coolers, etc stay as low as possible. Everyone has their own needs and ideas but I've found my system to work out pretty well and don't plan to make any changes along the way.

 

[theferg]

It would be easy to make, it would be very similar to the rack I helped Sully build albeit a lower height, angle on the bed sides, two hoops and spanners. I'd be interested in scoping something out however from a marketing standpoint there are already several lower height options on the market including the Bakkie Rack (made in South Afrika by Front Runner). While a 'Heavy Duty' tube one would be neat and all, its just extra weight, for example the Bakkie does the job at under 20 lbs and its far more adjustable than a tube version could be. Tube option would require welding, again no chore for a local but for Joe Smith in Vermont, he would then face paying $150-200 + paint to get it installed. For a customer one off build it makes sense. So even at a $300 price point its not going to save you anything over the Bakkie @ $475. And of course if one were interested the Bakkie is available from your favorite Overland gear outfitter (you better be thinking Cruiser Outfitters)

I agree with you on these points except I think there is an error in your total cost logic... cause if Joe Smith in Vermont can't setup and install a tube version and use a spray can, then he undoubtedly also cannot setup and install the Bakkie himself either, so he would be facing paying for an install on the Bakkie as well.

Remember that you want to make easy access to your goods through the side of your rack. I've seen custom setups that have stuff strapped across the sides, High-Lifts, sand-ladders, shovels/axes, etc. some leaving zero easy access to the gear in your bed via the sides. If I had to unload everything through the back of the bed it would void the whole concept for me personally. Along with that higher gear means higher center of gravity, with the room one 'should' have in a pickup its my opinion that heavy things like fuel, fridges, coolers, etc stay as low as possible. Everyone has their own needs and ideas but I've found my system to work out pretty well and don't plan to make any changes along the way.

Good points Kurt. I appreciate you weighing in on this -- after all, my last desert camping trip with you was the straw that broke the camel's back for my 4Runner. Your setup is definitely dialed in. I wasn't thinking when I said adding the accessories about reaching in from the sides--but I definitely don't want to block access to stuff in the bed, and I definitely want my gear low in the bed. The original scepter can idea I've got is still good I think, but may only work for me. A second idea on them I've got may still do the trick as well. I need to mock it up though. I'll mess around tonight and try and get some pics or something on the ideas.

I'm not trying to dis on the Bakkie and don't mean to. I think it's an awesome setup and would love to have it. It's just a bit more than I personally want to spend at this time--I've got a stock truck and want to get it ready for some camping within a month or two. I have things like lift, tires, sliders, and bumpers that I will be immediately diverting funds to so the Bakkie price is just not fitting in there for me right now.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I agree with you on these points except I think there is an error in your total cost logic... cause if Joe Smith in Vermont can't setup and install a tube version and use a spray can, then he undoubtedly also cannot setup and install the Bakkie himself either, so he would be facing paying for an install on the Bakkie as well.

I'm not following you there, the Bakkie installs with 24 bolts, is adjustable width wise and length spread. Sure you could pre-weld the tube option but its going to cost a mint to ship and it will limit your market to just single cab or just double cab, etc. My cost logic was assuming you ship both of the hoop prebent and then the spanners, all ready to weld to their specs.

I'm not trying to dis on the Bakkie and don't mean to. I think it's an awesome setup and would love to have it. It's just a bit more than I personally want to spend at this time--I've got a stock truck and want to get it ready for some camping within a month or two. I have things like lift, tires, sliders, and bumpers that I will be immediately diverting funds to so the Bakkie price is just not fitting in there for me right now.

I hear you loud and clear, when I was in the market for the rack I considered the same options but in the end the Bakkie had just hit the US market and Paul and I worked something that made my time saved well worth the cost. Had those stars not aligned I would have just built my own as well.

 

[theferg]

Ah yes. You did mention welding it and I even quoted it in your post I quoted up there. For some reason (possibly sick kids keeping me up all night and throwing me off my game maybe...?) I was thinking you were saying Joe Smith couldn't spray paint it and bolt it to his truck, but yet could bolt a Bakkie together and bolt it to his truck. But i get ya now. Sorry about that.

Anyway...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Ah yes. You did mention welding it and I even quoted it in your post I quoted up there. For some reason (possibly sick kids keeping me up all night and throwing me off my game maybe...?) I was thinking you were saying Joe Smith couldn't spray paint it and bolt it to his truck, but yet could bolt a Bakkie together and bolt it to his truck. But i get ya now. Sorry about that.

Anyway...

Get some sleep

With some creative design you could make the spanners bolt on, either through a flange or tube clamp type setup. Something similar could be done with the hoops to the tracks on the bedside. This way you could make a single hoop (reversible to either side) and then change your spanner lengths to address the short-bed vs long bed changes. Still UPS shippable, can be pre-painted (a huge selling point for many) and considered 'bolt-on' which again is big for I would estimate the majority o the market for something like this.

If I were to make a change to mine it would be to re-use the Bakkie load bars which absolutely rock. Low profile, strong, light and infinite mounting options as they are an extruded aluminum cross section with bolt 'tracks' top and bottom that either hold a bolt head or a nut. But then I would use tube side rails, rather than have the tube span the width of the bed, the hoop would span the length, connected along the bottom by a track (L shape) that saddles the bedside. The would be tilted inward to match the angle of the cab. Easy enough right? The kicker is I would want them out of aluminum (yes Cody, there is an application for aluminum). No corrosion in the Utah winters, light and will have some 'give'. I'll add that the Bakkie does move and flex, at first I thought it was a design fall back but I'm 100% convinced now it is not only by design but its ideal, saving the tent base from cracks at the mounting locations and even to help cushion vibration and bumps when your in the tent. Not sure how this could be incorporated into a steel design other than to use a simple rubber gasket between the tub/rack or between the rack/tent.

 

[MOODY]

A friend of mine built a rack for the back of his truck...first it was used to mount a basket to, then it was used as a platform for a HD basket:

Food for thought...