Jeeper's New Travel Trailer: A Repair, Modify, and Upgrade thread.

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
So after about 1 million hours of back and forth on buying a new trailer/toy hauler/motorhome that would better suit the needs of my family, we ended up almost right where we started... With a basic Travel Trailer 🤦‍♂️. A 2019 Grey Wolf 29TE

This trailer is significantly better than our previous trailer in a few key aspects, including:
-More bed space. It has a queen bedroom up front, and 4 bunk beds in the back.
-Larger bathroom space, especially around the toilet. Our previous bathroom was miserable for an adult male, and even worse in full racing gear and boots.
-It's 13 years newer, which brings some better looks and updated interior.
-The trailer only weighs 5,960 lbs, so it is significantly lighter than the equivalent toy hauler.

There are a few draw backs to this trailer:
-This trailer still doesn't solve the issue of being able to haul 2 dirt bikes everywhere we need to go. The truck bed is already full, and I do not want to continue to pull doubles, So the bikes must be in/on this trailer somehow.
-It's pretty looooooong. Measures 37' from hitch to tail. A full 6' longer than our last trailer. With the planned modifications, this will put my total vehicle length at 64ft, just 1ft shy of the legal limit.

Here she is:

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I picked it up for what I believe to be a super awesome killer fantastic price. That being said... It came with a salvaged title and some pretty hefty damage.
The previous owners must have been some sort of stupid, because the trailer has obviously been drug down the side of a few trees. At first I thought it was all part of a single accident, which caused the salvage... but after getting more familiar with the trailer, there must be multiple incidents.

The first major damage is from what looks like a painted post. This busted the drains for the holding tanks, ripped aluminum siding off, and destroyed some of the wood framing. The drains are currently being held up by electrical tape.

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The next bit appears to be all tree damage. 2 windows were busted out, the top drip edge is smashed in, and a lot of aluminum is dented. The worst of it I didn't see until I got it home because the pop out blocks the view... but the top aluminum piece is actually sliced clean through for about 6ft or so..

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These issues I can attribute to a dumb owner. Based on some interior damage and filth, these folks were not gentle with their equipment. It will take some time and effort, but I believe we can solve most of the neglect and damage items.


The next issues are manufacturer related. If you follow the travel trailer world at all, you are aware that they are built as cheap and quick as possible. This leads to all kinds of issues from every manufacturer. A MAJOR issue with all of them is the cheap and flimsy frames they are built on. This frame is 6" I beams, about 1/4 in thick. It is at least still straight, but is already significantly bowed front to back. I think I lifted the rear about 4" to get it level on the jacks.

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You can see here, the axle bolts have made contact with the frame and bent it. Which is really no surprise.. just the trailer and water weight nearly max the load capacity, not counting food, cloths, toys, gear, tools, etc. This happened on both sides.
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So, this leads me to the plans phase.

First of all, all the damage needs to be repaired to return the trailer to a functional, water tight trailer. This will be pretty lame and basic.. but I will post photos along the way.

Second: The frame needs to be strengthened and the trailer needs to be lifted for clearance issues. In addition, I am going to extend the frame between 3-4ft off the back to have a permanent and strong double moto hauler. The lift will be a simple spring over, and I will upgrade the springs.. and should probably do heavier axles as well. This kind of makes me sad, as this is the first trailer I have owned without basic metal wheels.

For the frame work, I intend to run rectangular tubing along the outside frame rails and weld them in place. It will require notching out the little wing supports a little, but will make them even stronger with additional support and welding. This will run the entire length of the trailer, tie into the tongue, and extend out the back. There is very little in the way that will have to be moved, making it an easy solution. I will also add additional cross supports along the way.
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I am thinking something like a 2x4 tube, with 1/4 in walls. But I have absolutely no idea what is actually the right answer.. I am just guessing.
I could just as easily do just a 1/2 plate down each frame rail. Or I can do a thicker tube.
What do you smarter-than-me folk think is the right answer. It will be preventing frame droop and twist off road, and will be supporting about 550-600 lbs of dirt bike off the back.

I am excited to get working on this. I was originally hoping to use it at least once this year.. but I am thinking I've got enough work to do that she'll have to wait until spring for the first debut.
 

Corban_White

Well-Known Member
Location
Payson, AZ
I would use C channel vs tube, just for the rust issue. I have a really nice utility trailer with channel frame rails but the rest of the trailer was built with square tube and it is rusting out from the inside. The exterior coating is good but the metal is disappearing from underneath the paint. It is the worst on the tubes that are "sealed" without an open end to allow the condensation in the air to get out, but even they are having rust issues.

Also, I know you are aware, but the back of a long trailer moves a TON and can be a difficult place to secure things like dirt bikes, generators, etc. I would look into a different option, like extending the tongue and putting the bikes there, or adding some removable wings to the flatbed. JMO.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Adding to the front would also alleviate my questions about offsetting tongue weight with a rear-mount carrying platform. :) And makes it somewhat easier to keep it strong, because front.

For your reinforcement, size will make a bigger difference than material thickness. So 6" tall steel vs. 4" tall steel, even if it's thinner/lighter, will be stiffer.
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
The front was also my first choice. But the trailer currently has 900lbs of tongue weight which seemed excessive. Adding the additional 600lbs is a lot to have on the tongue I thought. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
I just actually measured, and the current ibeam is 7.25 tall, so doing a 6” tube or c channel is possible.

Going with the front idea, it seems to also be very simple to extend out the front. The current hitch could even be left in place to add some strength, and be reusable if the future dictates removing my addition.
Here is my very to scale and perfect drawing

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ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
I also recommend the front. More tongue weight is always better then not enough


I have extended 2 tongues on trailers. The first one was definitely long enough to fit bikes on
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
I also recommend the front. More tongue weight is always better then not enough


I have extended 2 tongues on trailers. The first one was definitely long enough to fit bikes on

I am sure that even with bikes on the back that there would be plenty of tongue weight. We pack a lot of junk with us :rofl:

Do you have any photos of these trailers?
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
The current frame is all 1/8 material, not the 1/4 I said above.

going with tube, 6x2, I think 1/8 along the frame would be sufficient to strengthen it all, as it will add double what is currently there.
Is it enough to build the new tongue with?
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
that thing does have the axles wayyyy back there so I think adding to the back would be fine, especially with an equalizer.

I also wouldn't add steel to the whole frame, just from in front of the axles- back for the dirtbike holder. I think channel would be the easiest to work with and a great compromise. I'd do 6" x 1/8' personally. Adding rect tube to it is just complete overkill.

I assume 3500 lb axles and that's a bummer. loaded up you're probably already near or exceeding their capacity. throw some bikes on the back and you will definitely be hurting them. you're right to want to upgrade them.
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
I just spent some time staring at the trailer. Too much time.

The trailer has 12ft behind the middle of the axles, and 25ft in front. I think for the sake of cornering, off-road clearance, and weight on the back axle of my truck, I want to keep the bikes on the back of the trailer. I already have the RZR hauler and 2 RZR's adding about 2500 lbs on the bed.. so adding 1600 lbs isn't my favorite. If the bikes being on back even take a couple hundred pounds of the tongue, I wouldn't mind... but I doubt they will.

The rear bounce is still a concern, but I think some good straps and it should be ok.
 

jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
My focus for the last few days has been to stop any further damage to the trailer.. I got some wreck wrap on the broken windows to get them covered.
I winterized the trailer. The grey and black water tanks were emptied when the trailer hit the pole because it broke the valves.. But the fresh water was still full. I got it all drained and blew out the lines. filled the p traps with anti freeze.

The roof had a couple small tears on the edges, which came from hitting trees. I cleaned them up and put some eternabond on.

The slice in the tin was loose and floppy. I stapled along the edges and put some eternabond on to keep it dry. I have some additional plans for it.. but this will keep it dry for now.

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I was able to get the awning working. But then had to laugh.. You can see in this photo it bows down a little.... but it's much worse IRL. It looks like a jump rope as it spins around. 🤦‍♂️
I can't believe people treat things this way. Whether on purpose or incompetence.

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jeeper

Currently without Jeep
Location
So Jo, Ut
So the trailer had obviously hit some sort of yellow pole..
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Super lucky for me, the damage was at a seam in the exterior board! The manufacturer just used a backing board to connect the 2 exterior boards.
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You can see it got pushed in quite a ways. I cut the existing staples out of the wood, straightened it all out, and screwed it together.
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I straightened the tin the best I could, added new water barrier, and stapled it all in place.
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I’m not sure yet how involved I want to get into tin replacement. I will obviously add new tin to the bottom. For the damaged part I am not sure if I will try to cut and patch, or maybe just replace everything below the slide portion.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
What’s amazing is the previous owner (who was obviously a terrible driver) didn’t think to even put gorilla tape on any of the damage. That guy is completely lacking basic man instincts.
 
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