• RME Gear & Apparel

Jeep JL Lifts

TRD270

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
@Greg @mesha

Looking for some guidance so I know how many pennies I need to save.

Looking around at lifts for the new JL and i'm way out of my world. Almost every "lift" i've installed has involved Alcan or OME. I had the budget boost from Teraflex on the brief time I owned my JK.

Goals - 35's maybe 37's down the road. Keep it low. Mostly exploring in the rig coupled with some trips to Moab on medium to hard trails. I want good road manners (well as good as a lifted short wheelbase can get). Like to keep the lift below 3"

Been browsing the interwebs and the Dynatrac or Teraflex seem to have good reviews.

So I've been looking at the 2.5 Alpine CT. The RT seems really nice but I don't think I need that craziness and I worry about Utah weather and those arm joints needing a lot of maintenance. Not to mention the nearly long arm price tag associated.

But should I consider the sport ST for now? and add RT control arms down the road? or just wait and get the CT? Or throw some after market flares on it and rock it as is with 35's

Biggest concern is being able to keep geometry right so it doesn't become miserable on the road.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
TRD270 said:
@Greg @mesha

Looking for some guidance so I know how many pennies I need to save.

Looking around at lifts for the new JL and i'm way out of my world. Almost every "lift" i've installed has involved Alcan or OME. I had the budget boost from Teraflex on the brief time I owned my JK.

Goals - 35's maybe 37's down the road. Keep it low. Mostly exploring in the rig coupled with some trips to Moab on medium to hard trails. I want good road manners (well as good as a lifted short wheelbase can get). Like to keep the lift below 3"

Been browsing the interwebs and the Dynatrac or Teraflex seem to have good reviews.

So I've been looking at the 2.5 Alpine CT. The RT seems really nice but I don't think I need that craziness and I worry about Utah weather and those arm joints needing a lot of maintenance. Not to mention the nearly long arm price tag associated.

But should I consider the sport ST for now? and add RT control arms down the road? or just wait and get the CT? Or throw some after market flares on it and rock it as is with 35's

Biggest concern is being able to keep geometry right so it doesn't become miserable on the road.
Click to expand...
For your intended use, I would lean toward 35’s and looks for Rubicon Springs/shocks and flares. Toss on some Teraflex Speedbumps so you can really rally the crap out of dirt roads.
 
Greg

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I really like the IR bushings, I'm running the 3.5" RT3 system on my Gladiator which includes the (short) Alpine arms with IR bushings. They do make a noticeable difference in wheel travel, from what I've seen.

Right out of the box, I ran a 1.5" leveling kit and 37's with factory springs and control arms initially and it worked OK, but my uptravel was limited. But that allowed me to build in stages, get on the trail and wheelin at an affordable price.

The RT3 with IR arms has been impressive, I wouldn't discount them if you want all the wheel travel and minimal suspension bind with short arms. I haven't needed any additional maintenance with the IR bushings.

I'd say build in stages, start with the CT to get the springs, trackbar, etc and down the road add the Alpine arms with IR bushings if you want to maximize the wheel travel.
 
TRD270

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
Hickey said:
For your intended use, I would lean toward 35’s and looks for Rubicon Springs/shocks and flares. Toss on some Teraflex Speedbumps so you can really rally the crap out of dirt
Click to expand...

Should have been more clear, 37’s are way down the line. After it’s lost enough value I don’t care as much about the body 😂

And since we put it in both our names it might actually stay around that long.
 
Agility Customs

Agility Customs

Well-Known Member
Vendor
TRD270 said:
@Greg @mesha

Looking for some guidance so I know how many pennies I need to save.

Looking around at lifts for the new JL and i'm way out of my world. Almost every "lift" i've installed has involved Alcan or OME. I had the budget boost from Teraflex on the brief time I owned my JK.

Goals - 35's maybe 37's down the road. Keep it low. Mostly exploring in the rig coupled with some trips to Moab on medium to hard trails. I want good road manners (well as good as a lifted short wheelbase can get). Like to keep the lift below 3"

Been browsing the interwebs and the Dynatrac or Teraflex seem to have good reviews.

So I've been looking at the 2.5 Alpine CT. The RT seems really nice but I don't think I need that craziness and I worry about Utah weather and those arm joints needing a lot of maintenance. Not to mention the nearly long arm price tag associated.

But should I consider the sport ST for now? and add RT control arms down the road? or just wait and get the CT? Or throw some after market flares on it and rock it as is with 35's

Biggest concern is being able to keep geometry right so it doesn't become miserable on the road.
Click to expand...

I have a set of 4 of the monotube falcon shocks for stock up to 2" of lift height I will donate to the cause!

They are used but in good useable shape
 
Trate D

Trate D

Well-Known Member
I have all the stock suspension off a brand new 4xe Rubicon 4D getting ready to go to the scrap pile. I know the Teraflex stuff that replaced it had a specific spring for the left rear to compensate for the battery pack under the driver side frame rail. I assume the factory one also did but have no proof of that.
 
Last edited:
TRD270

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again
Supporting Member
Location
SaSaSandy
Trate D said:
I have all the stock suspension off a brand new 4xe Rubicon 4D getting ready to go to the scrap pile. I know the Teraflex stuff that replaced it had a specific spring for the left rear to compensate for the battery pack under the driver side frame rail. I assume the factory one also did but have no proof of that.
Click to expand...
I’ll let you know, worried the spring rate for weight of the battery would be rough ride for my little 2 door. If Dave has some that he wants to part with that would be a better option.
 
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