Joint Spacers

Brysherexx

New Member
Is it acceptable when the castle nut is torqued to specs but goes past the cotter pin hole to back it off, insert washers, retorque, then insert cotter pin?
 

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
I did it once when I reamed a knuckle a tad too deep. I’m sure it’s probably not kosher, but it held up fine for me.
 

STAG

On my grind
Location
Pleasant Grove
Any official docs (factory service manuals or similar) I've ever read about castle nut torque will tell you to torque to spec, then continue to tighten until you can get the cotter pin through.
I think he’s saying that when the nut is tightened, it is not tall enough that putting a cotter pin in the hole does anything because the top of the nut is past the hole.

Another option is I think you can find taller(longer) castle nuts in lieu of a washer under the nut.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
In that scenario I'd say stacked washers is probably acceptable, but certainly not ideal. Like you mentioned, I think a taller nut would be a better solution. You could also re-drill the cotter pin hole in a usable spot. Hell, you could run a second castle nut on upside down (so the castle tops face each other) and cotter pin it in place too I guess.
 
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