Jeep Just another boring TJ build

[RockChucker]

I was hoping to run my exhaust down the passenger side, plenty of space with a driver drop front axle!

So many things hanging in the balance until I can get the frame modified.

It was easier to package exhaust and a control arm than a driveshaft and control arm. Like you said…need to get parts and start mocking things up. Your mind sees things one way. And then the reality of space taken up by components hits. Excited to see where this thing goes

 

[Greg]

It was easier to package exhaust and a control arm than a driveshaft and control arm. Like you said…need to get parts and start mocking things up. Your mind sees things one way. And then the reality of space taken up by components hits. Excited to see where this thing goes

Thanks Dave! I appreciate all the ideas and info. 😎

 

[Jinx]

Selma Hayek is pretty tan.

Naming the Jeep Selma might also explain the amount of money he is spending on her. #moneywellspent

 

[Tacoma]

late to this party, and not sure if it's been mentioned but re: PS pumps and whatnot, GoatBuilt makes some nifty brackets to move things around to better positions. If you haven't, check 'em out.

 

[Greg]

late to this party, and not sure if it's been mentioned but re: PS pumps and whatnot, GoatBuilt makes some nifty brackets to move things around to better positions. If you haven't, check 'em out.

Nah, this party just got started!

I'll check out the GoatBuilt brackets, didn't realize they were making those, too. Lots of the LS accy brackets are made for muscle cars & hot rods, it's nice to have someone building the accessory drive brackets for offroad applications.

Found 'em! - https://goatbuilt.com/product-category/ls-accessory-brackets/

 

[Greg]

So I'm trying to figure out how to finish the back of the tub and lay out the bed space. I'm going to try to do this right... so that means more work & effort on my part. I decided to cut the rear upper tub corners off and use those pieces to cap the tub. I'll work on blending the inner wheelwell area better with more cutting and fitting. I'm planning to leave the 'tailgate' area of the tub wide open so I'm not limiting the floor space and accessibility. (We will see about that).

As mentioned, I really need to get the new frame rails in place so I can know where things will actually fit. I've ordered the TJ front-half and LJ back-half frame pieces from MotoBilt, so at least they're on the way.

And just for future information, the difference in TJ and LJ frame specs is as follows. The dimensions are about the same from about the t-case skidplate forward, except for the following:

• The frame is 10 inches longer between the door cutout and the rear wheel.
• The frame is 5 inches longer between the rear wheel and the rear bumper.

That means I'll have 15" more frame length to work with. And just for the sake of writing specs down... I currently have 8" of tub floor behind the seats. With the LJ back-half kit, I should have another 44" of frame (behind the tub cut) to work with. So the floor of the bed should be close to 52" total length. That should provide for plenty of room for the fuel cell, cooler and tools. I think this is going to work out quite well!

 

[Greg]

There's no cutting corners here... oh, wait...

I'll need a small patch panel to tie in the area between the wheelwell and tub, then I can work on gluing it in place. Should have left that corner much larger. Doh!

 

[Greg]

Well, I really wanted my next update to this build thread to be finished pics of the rear tub corners but I just ran out of welding gas and the passenger side isn't done. The work has been meticulous, it's real easy to screw up welding sheetmetal and then spend way too much time fixing it. The work is hardly show car quality, but it's plenty good for a rock crawler. There will be a little body filler added and it'll look decent.

Oh, spot weld drill bits are awesome! I had to free a support from the tub and drilled out the spot welds from the back side, preserving the piece I needed without any additional holes.

 

[jeepin4x4james]

Took me a minute to find some decent pics… these are from 2016 when I did the ‘front half’ and full hydro.
I’ll still see if my brother can get pics of his TJ. It’s the same engine/headers I had but with a snow fighter 60 instead of a 9”…

 

[Greg]

Took me a minute to find some decent pics… these are from 2016 when I did the ‘front half’ and full hydro.
I’ll still see if my brother can get pics of his TJ. It’s the same engine/headers I had but with a snow fighter 60 instead of a 9”…

View attachment 139150View attachment 139151View attachment 139152View attachment 139153View attachment 139154

Very cool, good to see how it worked out. Thanks for the pics!

 

[RockChucker]

Greg, I think that YJ doors fit on a TJ if you change out to a YJ style striker pin.

Cj/Yj Half Hard Doors

$600.00 Cj/Yj Half Hard Doors for sale in Logan, UT on KSL Classifieds. View a wide selection of Rock Crawler Parts and other great items on KSL Classifieds.

classifieds.ksl.com

 

[Bart]

Not sure if you're keeping the inner wheel wells, but you can get them to match up if you make some relief cuts and pound them up. That's how I did the LTJ. My guess is you will cut them out and make more room inside, which will eventually be my plan.

 

[Greg]

Greg, I think that YJ doors fit on a TJ if you change out to a YJ style striker pin.

Cj/Yj Half Hard Doors

$600.00 Cj/Yj Half Hard Doors for sale in Logan, UT on KSL Classifieds. View a wide selection of Rock Crawler Parts and other great items on KSL Classifieds.

classifieds.ksl.com

Not a bad idea, I'm surprised how difficult it is to find TJ half doors... and how much they go for these days!

I was looking at these aluminum doors from JCR.- https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/...FF7R5k4i5NZ_9LwACcPRke0YqjxUTndMaAtLzEALw_wcB

GenRight makes some very similar for close to $500.

Not sure if you're keeping the inner wheel wells, but you can get them to match up if you make some relief cuts and pound them up. That's how I did the LTJ. My guess is you will cut them out and make more room inside, which will eventually be my plan.

I was going to keep them, but it's wasted space for sure and it's going to look a little funny with the tire so much further back. We will see, I've already had my fill of sheetmetal work.

 

[Bart]

I was going to keep them, but it's wasted space for sure and it's going to look a little funny with the tire so much further back. We will see, I've already had my fill of sheetmetal work.

The sheetmetal work you're doing looks great. What welder are you using? I was wondering if you had enough floor left from the piece that was cut out to fill the corners.

 

[Greg]

The sheetmetal work you're doing looks great. What welder are you using? I was wondering if you had enough floor left from the piece that was cut out to fill the corners.

Thanks Bart, skills I learned at UVU (UVCC at the time!) in the collision repair program! 😉

I'm using my ESAB Rebel with .023 wire and 20 gauge setting and the Smart MIG option. It's not that bad, really.

I may be able to fill those corners with the floor pieces. It would be really neat to take that round wheel well and make a straight piece of sheetmetal, so the tub has a angled look to the bottom rear.

 

[Greg]

I'm not quite done with the sheetmetal work out back, but decided to shift gears and start working on the frame, body mounts and preparing for the Motobilt TJ front half frame and LJ rear half frame kits that should be arriving soon! I lopped the front frame rails off just behind the factory spring/shock mounts. The rear was chopped off just forward of the factory coil spring mounts.

I ordered a set of Artec TJ Boatside Body mounts that will lift the body 1.25", helping make a little more room for the Atlas and hopefully a flat belly. I carefully measured the centerline of the stock body mounts so I knew where to place the new once. I spent a lot of time with the Sawzall and Grinder, chopping off the stock body mounts, cleaning up the welds then went to work on removing the suspension mounts and motor mounts. I still need to cut off the lower mounts, but they look like a PITA so I left them for tomorrow when it's cooler.

These boatside body mounts are awesome, they are built beefy and they're built so rocks slide past them smoothly. With the drivers side tacked in place and looking like the measurements were right, I lifted it into place and checked alignment. Looks good! I'll fully weld them in place tomorrow.

 

[Hickey]

Any idea what this clip is called? Or a part number for it? I need about 20 of these for my rig.

 

[Spork]

Brake line clip?
Doorman 800-285 looks like a double sided version or 800-281 for single https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-34244-800-281.aspx

 

[Hickey]

If you haven't tossed those coil bucket frame sections yet, I could use them.

 

[RockChucker]

Easiest way i've found to cut off the lower control arm mounts is to use a cutoff just inside of the weld and watch your depth so you don't cut into the frame. A hammer gets rid of them easy when you're most of the way through and the remaining weld/metal cleans up quick with a flap disc.