- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I agree with this.
Jeep Just another boring TJ build
- Status
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You're right, the 1 5/8" looks & feels small for the size of this thing. Guess I'll buy a another die!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I had to toss the Chris Durham Racing fiberglass highline hood on with the grill in place to see how it all looks far as front tire placement. What's awesome is that with the 1 1/4" body lift from the Artec Boatside Body mounts, the grill doesn't need to be cut and dropped to work with the front frame kickup! I love how it's coming together, it's going to be one badass TJ.
I did try set the Warn 8274 winch into the winch mount and front bumper and verified that it simply physically will not fit...
I did try set the Warn 8274 winch into the winch mount and front bumper and verified that it simply physically will not fit...
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Sex triple EEE!
Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
I kept thinking I should check with you to see if you were in town. I've been in Grand Junction for work today and finished up early. Would have been fun to help you move things around and see the progress in person. Are you going to be ready by sometime in September? I'm thinking I'm due for Grand Junction/Montrose trails. When do those vicious bitting fly things go away? Jeep is looking great!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You should have, I've been home all day! Sept won't happen, I'm really hoping for next Spring. I still need to build the LQ4, setup the suspension, wire and plumb it all, buy and plumb the full hydro, etc.
The cedar gnats... they're terrible. If it's hot out, they're out. So probably late Sept / early October would be safe?
Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
You're in the "fast" phase of the build. It's fun because you can see the progress on a daily basis. It's when you get to the finer details that the project start to slow. But, you know that... Spring is a good goal! Looking forward to wheeling with you.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
My vote is 2” for roll cage tube.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I actually had a 2" die when I got my bender 20+ years ago! I sold it to @Milner because I felt like it was best for full size rigs!
I'll probably go with 1 3/4" honestly, I think it fits better.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You're totally right, the build plan is coming together quickly and mocking up parts is easy. It's very exciting at this point as well! Plumbing, wiring, painting and engine building will take its time. But it'll all be worth the effort in the end! I think this thing is going to be silly capable and a riot to wheel.
We'll get together for some harder RME trail runs next year.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
More work over the last couple days, I pulled the frame back out and welded up the joints. Also finished welding up the Artec Boatside Body mounts. I finally received my Barnes 4WD order, which was a flat belly skidplate. FedEx lost this thing for almost 3 weeks, then it popped back up and was delivered. I flipped the frame over and bolted on the skid plate. I added some bolt head protector washers, but they're huge! (I may take the flap disc to them and get them to match the height of the bolt head itself.)
With the frame upside down I had better access to the lower link brackets and welded them in place. My front lower links are limited on where they can sit, so rather than just tack them in place, so I glued them in permanently. Once that was done, I started working on setting up the front truss and attempting to run a double triangulated 4 link. I had to cut down the truss to fit my narrowed axle. I didn't weld anything, but it was still TBD.
Next, I set up the frame on jack stands, rolled the axles and tires underneath and set it at full bump, (if not a little more). Just wanted to make sure the links are going to clear! It's about 1-2" lower than the shocks will let it go. The frame height is currently 17" from the ground. Then I dropped the mock-up 5.3, 4L80E and Atlas in *about* where they'll sit. (The engine currently has a truck oil pan, it'll get swapped out for a F-Body oil pan on the LQ4 once it's built.)
With the engine in place, it was obvious that a double triangulated 4 link isn't going to work. The front of the engine oil pan needs to sit where the upper link mounts and truss are. I'll have to run a 3 link with a track bar.
I continued working on setting up links and used some PVC to figure out lengths. With the front, the lowers will be around 34" long hole to hole. I'd prefer they were longer, but just don't have the room for more length. The rear lowers look like they'd be 44" long, but I don't like how far down the brackets hang. They're tacked on, so I may try something different and shoot for a slightly shorter rear lower link... 38-40"?
Here's the current state of things.... body on one side of the shop, chassis on the other. Headers and motor mounts are on the engine for more fitment. Looks like the headers are going to work quite well!
I did push the front axle forward 2" more.... so now it's sitting at 114" WB.
With the frame upside down I had better access to the lower link brackets and welded them in place. My front lower links are limited on where they can sit, so rather than just tack them in place, so I glued them in permanently. Once that was done, I started working on setting up the front truss and attempting to run a double triangulated 4 link. I had to cut down the truss to fit my narrowed axle. I didn't weld anything, but it was still TBD.
Next, I set up the frame on jack stands, rolled the axles and tires underneath and set it at full bump, (if not a little more). Just wanted to make sure the links are going to clear! It's about 1-2" lower than the shocks will let it go. The frame height is currently 17" from the ground. Then I dropped the mock-up 5.3, 4L80E and Atlas in *about* where they'll sit. (The engine currently has a truck oil pan, it'll get swapped out for a F-Body oil pan on the LQ4 once it's built.)
With the engine in place, it was obvious that a double triangulated 4 link isn't going to work. The front of the engine oil pan needs to sit where the upper link mounts and truss are. I'll have to run a 3 link with a track bar.
I continued working on setting up links and used some PVC to figure out lengths. With the front, the lowers will be around 34" long hole to hole. I'd prefer they were longer, but just don't have the room for more length. The rear lowers look like they'd be 44" long, but I don't like how far down the brackets hang. They're tacked on, so I may try something different and shoot for a slightly shorter rear lower link... 38-40"?
Here's the current state of things.... body on one side of the shop, chassis on the other. Headers and motor mounts are on the engine for more fitment. Looks like the headers are going to work quite well!
I did push the front axle forward 2" more.... so now it's sitting at 114" WB.
kmboren
Recovering XJ owner anonymous
- Location
- Southern Utah
Such a cool build. This thing is going to be awesome.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Kevin, I'm excited about it.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Coming along nicely Greg. Excellent fabrication taking place.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Well, back home for a few days and I've been spending all of my time in the shop working on the TJ! I built some spacers for the big rod ends, the smaller ones and a 1.6" spacer for the ORI shocks. This will help keep the tabs spaced the right amount when I weld them up and hold them together!
I started on the front 3 link by placing the upper link close to the frame, where it'll still clear. Next, I worked on building the frame-end upper link mount, I had a few options, but decided on a bolt running thru the frame, with beefy mounts and a sleeve thru the frame itself. I need a 6.5" bolt to make it thru the frame, rod end and mount. This gives me plenty of room for exhaust running down the passenger side.
Then I started working on the lower links, they were pretty simple to get built and in place.
I changed up my rear frame link mounts and went with the Dual Control Arm mount from RuffStuff. I've used these before and liked them. My rear links are long!
I moved on to the TMR Shock towers and the shock tabs on the axle ends. I triple checked clearances, ride heights, etc and only moved forward with welding them in place when I knew they were good.
Since the ORI's also act as bumpstops, the shock mounts & tabs need to be BEEFY.... so I used massive 3/8" thick tabs on the axle end and cranked the welder up to make sure they stick.
I had to space the rear shock towers up 4" to match the frame height up front, so I added a beefy piece of 4" x 4" square, 3/16" tube. Also welded up the tabs and the top of the TMR shocks towers, then started gluing them into place!
I need to figure out where the track bar and mounts will end up, but I really need to get my PSC DE cylinder purchased!
Since I was thinking about steering, I decided to put the WFO Concepts high steer arms on and check how the clearance was. Picked these up for a deal from @STAG .
These are their, "Get Some" KOH-style Double Sheer HD steering arms, they are set up for full hydraulic steering, using an 8" double ended ram. The arms have stock Ackerman built into them, and are 7.25" long from center of kingpin to center of heim. The arms have 3/4" chromoly QA-1 rod ends pressed into the steering end. This uniball style setup will create a double sheer tie-rod. (description from WFO Customs )
I'm going to upgrade the knuckles to Reid's in the near future for strength and to take advantage of the 5th stud hole. I also put the Artec full hydro mount / skid place in place, again to check out clearances.
Getting the ORI shocks mounted was a magical moment for me.... the TJ frame and suspension was finally together! 😍
I started on the front 3 link by placing the upper link close to the frame, where it'll still clear. Next, I worked on building the frame-end upper link mount, I had a few options, but decided on a bolt running thru the frame, with beefy mounts and a sleeve thru the frame itself. I need a 6.5" bolt to make it thru the frame, rod end and mount. This gives me plenty of room for exhaust running down the passenger side.
Then I started working on the lower links, they were pretty simple to get built and in place.
I changed up my rear frame link mounts and went with the Dual Control Arm mount from RuffStuff. I've used these before and liked them. My rear links are long!
I moved on to the TMR Shock towers and the shock tabs on the axle ends. I triple checked clearances, ride heights, etc and only moved forward with welding them in place when I knew they were good.
Since the ORI's also act as bumpstops, the shock mounts & tabs need to be BEEFY.... so I used massive 3/8" thick tabs on the axle end and cranked the welder up to make sure they stick.
I had to space the rear shock towers up 4" to match the frame height up front, so I added a beefy piece of 4" x 4" square, 3/16" tube. Also welded up the tabs and the top of the TMR shocks towers, then started gluing them into place!
I need to figure out where the track bar and mounts will end up, but I really need to get my PSC DE cylinder purchased!
Since I was thinking about steering, I decided to put the WFO Concepts high steer arms on and check how the clearance was. Picked these up for a deal from @STAG .
These are their, "Get Some" KOH-style Double Sheer HD steering arms, they are set up for full hydraulic steering, using an 8" double ended ram. The arms have stock Ackerman built into them, and are 7.25" long from center of kingpin to center of heim. The arms have 3/4" chromoly QA-1 rod ends pressed into the steering end. This uniball style setup will create a double sheer tie-rod. (description from WFO Customs
)I'm going to upgrade the knuckles to Reid's in the near future for strength and to take advantage of the 5th stud hole. I also put the Artec full hydro mount / skid place in place, again to check out clearances.
Getting the ORI shocks mounted was a magical moment for me.... the TJ frame and suspension was finally together! 😍
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I really wanted to put the body on.... so I grabbed the engine hoist and rigged up a super sketchy move! I bolted the tub down, tossed the grill and hood on and admired all my handy work. The frame is sitting at 18" off the ground (with another 1" of 'bump' available) and the rockers are at 23" from the ground.
Since I was this far, I decided to swing the LS engine & 4L80E transmission into place, get it mocked up and then build engine mounts!
And.... the LS is sitting in the mounts!
Since I was this far, I decided to swing the LS engine & 4L80E transmission into place, get it mocked up and then build engine mounts!
And.... the LS is sitting in the mounts!
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Looking amazing.
FYI, poor man motorsports makes an f body pan with a trap door baffle that is about the same price as a gm f body pan.
FYI, poor man motorsports makes an f body pan with a trap door baffle that is about the same price as a gm f body pan.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Chad!
You happen to have a link to that pan? I looked and didn't see it. I used a Holley A-Body pan for the LS in the El Camino, it was expensive AND made in China. After looking around, I found what looks to be reproduction F-Body oil pans for around $90 on EBay. They look decent.... https://www.ebay.com/itm/1840216364...c&brand=Custom&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Seriously, the prefabbed stuff has made this build a quick and easy process.... and they're really amazing parts. I'm not sure how long this build would take had I tried to build my own F & R frame sections, the shock towers, link brackets, etc. MotoBilt, RuffStuff, TMR, Artec and all the others building this kind of stuff really make it easy to build a beast of a 4x4.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
@Hickey stopped by yesterday and we talked about some of the plans from here. It's always nice to bounce ideas off a friend, get a different set of eyes on it and see things from a different perspective.
I mentioned the idea of running the tailgate, rather than leave it open, as I talked about at the beginning. After fitting it up, it's the right call. It will enclose the cab more, keep dirt out and create a secure storage area behind the seats. I'll weld the tailgate in place, after patching up the hole left by removing the latch.
We also talked about the tub rear corners. As is, they looks funny with the wheelwell cutout and inner wheel well taking up precious space inside the tub. The inner wheel well also gets right in the way of where the roll cage B-pillar mount will need to sit. So I think I'll be cutting out the inner wheel well, plating it with flat sheetmetal and closing off the rear wheel well cutout. I'll add some beefy blank TJ Corner armor along with rock sliders. The corner armor will probably get tied into the roll cage, for that much more support and strength.
Here's what it looks like with the tailgate back in place.
I mentioned the idea of running the tailgate, rather than leave it open, as I talked about at the beginning. After fitting it up, it's the right call. It will enclose the cab more, keep dirt out and create a secure storage area behind the seats. I'll weld the tailgate in place, after patching up the hole left by removing the latch.
We also talked about the tub rear corners. As is, they looks funny with the wheelwell cutout and inner wheel well taking up precious space inside the tub. The inner wheel well also gets right in the way of where the roll cage B-pillar mount will need to sit. So I think I'll be cutting out the inner wheel well, plating it with flat sheetmetal and closing off the rear wheel well cutout. I'll add some beefy blank TJ Corner armor along with rock sliders. The corner armor will probably get tied into the roll cage, for that much more support and strength.
Here's what it looks like with the tailgate back in place.
- Status