Jeep Just another boring TJ build
- Status
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Shane! It's come a long way in the last handful of days.
I have a loose idea in mind for the rear bed portion, it's just going to be a matter fitting things up and seeing how it all works together. The rear mini-bed will be built out of round tube & tied to the frame. I'd like to skin the bed with sheetmetal and add some dimple dies for strength. I'll tie the rear shock towers into the bed frame. There will be some tubes running at a 45* from the top of the B-pillar, down to the bed as well.
I'm planning on a 18 Gallon fuel cell from Goat Built, I'd really like to put it as far back as possible and in between the frame rails (with beefy skidplate) for weight distribution. The remaining space will hold my freezer/fridge and a dedicated space for tool storage. It would be neat to use something like a large Rubbermaid storage bin with solid mounts for the tools.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Nate! 😁
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Good to hear, Glen! Nice to see you still hangout on RME too. 🙂
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Great workmanship Greg. Really enjoying following along on this build. Living vicariously through you.👍
Mike
Mike
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
This is the pan I used
TSP 81074 GM LS Retro-Fit Rear Sump Oil Pan, Aluminum, Natural, Kit
LS engines are among the most popular for swaps for their low expense and great power potential. Unfortunately, stock LS oil pans can't always fit where you want them to. That's where TSP's retro fit oil pan comes in. Composed of lightweight cast aluminum, it is designed to allow for increased...
www.poormanmotorsports.com
TSP 81072 LS Retro-Fit Oil Pan Baffle Kit, For 81074 oil pans
If you're going to be doing a lot of cornering, braking or accelerating, you're engine's going to need a little help. TSP's baffle kit helps to maintain constant oil pressure in any situation. Designed to fit our retro-fit oil pan, it features three trap doors to keep oil from flowing away from...
www.poormanmotorsports.com
So just over $300 for both.
Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Looking good! 😎
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Appreciate that Mike! It's been a fun build so far.
Totally agree, sometimes with a build like this I get distracted by the bigger projects (frame mods, suspension build) and haven't fully thought about the other parts. Like closing off the tub with the tailgate. 😁
This is the pan I used
Here is the baffle.TSP 81074 GM LS Retro-Fit Rear Sump Oil Pan, Aluminum, Natural, Kit
LS engines are among the most popular for swaps for their low expense and great power potential. Unfortunately, stock LS oil pans can't always fit where you want them to. That's where TSP's retro fit oil pan comes in. Composed of lightweight cast aluminum, it is designed to allow for increased...
TSP 81072 LS Retro-Fit Oil Pan Baffle Kit, For 81074 oil pans
If you're going to be doing a lot of cornering, braking or accelerating, you're engine's going to need a little help. TSP's baffle kit helps to maintain constant oil pressure in any situation. Designed to fit our retro-fit oil pan, it features three trap doors to keep oil from flowing away from...
So just over $300 for both.
Perfect, thanks for the links!
Thanks Andrew!
Wow Jacob, I really appreciate that! Thanks for mentioning it, that makes my day. 😁
I feel like I've been around vehicles long enough that I have a decent eye for what looks good and works well. I do enjoy thinking about certain projects, gathering ideas from others and coming up with my own version. Building is fun, but I'm really looking forward to getting this one done and putting a lot of trail miles on it.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Finally ordered & received my PSC double ended steering cylinder, I went with a 2.75" x 8" cyl (part# SC2227K1). I want excellent steering and I think this is a key piece to get it. I really need to get it mounted and in place, so I can figure out precisely where my track bar and brackets need to sit and still clear everything at full compression. I spent quite a bit of time fitting things up, I want to run a straight track bar, rather than a bent one.
After determining that the steering cyl needs to sit forward on the mount, I fit up the weld-on mounts and buzzed them in place. Also drilled out the cut-out piece for the differential and counter sunk the bolts. The removable piece is supposed to bolt on the inside, but with 4 steering cyl mounts, I'm going to need to run it on the outside.
I'll be working on the track bar & brackets tomorrow, then welding on the skidplate / steering cyl mount to the front axle.
After determining that the steering cyl needs to sit forward on the mount, I fit up the weld-on mounts and buzzed them in place. Also drilled out the cut-out piece for the differential and counter sunk the bolts. The removable piece is supposed to bolt on the inside, but with 4 steering cyl mounts, I'm going to need to run it on the outside.
I'll be working on the track bar & brackets tomorrow, then welding on the skidplate / steering cyl mount to the front axle.
pennsylvaniaboy
Member
Where did you get the WFO full hydro tie rods? I cant find them?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
They don't make them anymore, apparently. They were included with the 'Get Some' kit that had the arms, but it's no longer offered.
Looks like these were available 20 yrs ago!
WFO Kingpin "Get some" Double sheer high-steer...
www.pirate4x4.com
xjtony
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Grantsville, Ut
The guy that built my 60 welded one of the ram clamps to that plate that bolts on so you can remove the diff cover. To service the diff you have to remove the ram 🙃
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Video update!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I've had a lot going on, between a job change and traveling all over for work, I haven't had much time to really make any progress on the TJ. 10 days straight away from home!
I was able to have a weekend, so I spent a day in the shop working out exactly where the Artec full hydro mount and PSC steering cylinder need to end up. I did get my steering cylinder clevis mounts, which really helped me fit the rest of it up. This may not sound like much, but the WFO tie rods can't have too much angle to them, so I had to rotate the Artec mount up high enough for the tie rods and arms to be pretty close to in line. In the pic below, the tie rods are sitting on top of the clevis mounts.
I should still have enough room to squeeze a straight track bar in there and clear for the additional up-travel from the built in bumpstops.
I still need to cut 3.5" off the WFO tie rods to get the correct length, weld in the bungs for the rod ends then put it all together.
This pic doesn't look like much, but that's about 3 days worth of fitting, adjusting and tweaking... and it's still not welded together! 😆
10 days straight away from home!I was able to have a weekend, so I spent a day in the shop working out exactly where the Artec full hydro mount and PSC steering cylinder need to end up. I did get my steering cylinder clevis mounts, which really helped me fit the rest of it up. This may not sound like much, but the WFO tie rods can't have too much angle to them, so I had to rotate the Artec mount up high enough for the tie rods and arms to be pretty close to in line. In the pic below, the tie rods are sitting on top of the clevis mounts.
I should still have enough room to squeeze a straight track bar in there and clear for the additional up-travel from the built in bumpstops.
I still need to cut 3.5" off the WFO tie rods to get the correct length, weld in the bungs for the rod ends then put it all together.
This pic doesn't look like much, but that's about 3 days worth of fitting, adjusting and tweaking... and it's still not welded together! 😆
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'm waiting on a beefy diff cover for the front to finish up the track bar location & mounts, so I figured I'd play with other needs that will be coming up soon.
I want to build a engine 'cage' that will support the front shock mounts, but also protect the engine & radiator in case of a nasty rollover. My plan is to connect both shock mounts at the top, so they have plenty of support. I'll add a couple pieces of verticle tube behind the radiator that connects the frame, going up, then another tube crossing over. They'll then tie into the shock mounts as well. And finally, I'll connect the back side of the shock mounts down to the frame, debating on a straight shot or a bent tube.
I have a bunch of 1 1/4" HREW tube laying around and was fitting it up, but I don't know that it'll be strong enough? I also have some 1 5/8" DOM that would be super beefy for an engine cage.I feel like the 1 5/8" DOM is a better choice. What say you, fabricators of RME?
I really need to get the radiator ordered, with a fan and shroud, so I can see where it'll need to sit.
(the piece running straight across from the shock mounts will need bends, to clear the engine intake)
I want to build a engine 'cage' that will support the front shock mounts, but also protect the engine & radiator in case of a nasty rollover. My plan is to connect both shock mounts at the top, so they have plenty of support. I'll add a couple pieces of verticle tube behind the radiator that connects the frame, going up, then another tube crossing over. They'll then tie into the shock mounts as well. And finally, I'll connect the back side of the shock mounts down to the frame, debating on a straight shot or a bent tube.
I have a bunch of 1 1/4" HREW tube laying around and was fitting it up, but I don't know that it'll be strong enough? I also have some 1 5/8" DOM that would be super beefy for an engine cage.I feel like the 1 5/8" DOM is a better choice. What say you, fabricators of RME?
I really need to get the radiator ordered, with a fan and shroud, so I can see where it'll need to sit.
(the piece running straight across from the shock mounts will need bends, to clear the engine intake)
- Status