LQ4 Build

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Still plugging away on this thing...I’ve been told that the OEM LQ4 injectors were going to be at the very edge of their capability to fuel this motor. They are somewhere in the range of 24 lb/hr injectors. It just so happens that the gen IV intake I picked up had the fuel rail and injectors with it for the sweet price of $75. I took a peek at the injectors and they are a 50 lb/hr based on specs I can find on the interwebz...we all know those are super accurate 100% of the time. They are an EV6 style connector. The OEM gen III injectors are a multec style connector. $30 later and I have some wiring harness adapters on the way. I may wire them into the harness, but the gen IV intake seems taller and I may need some extra length. Have to see.
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Turns out a removable floor makes it pretty easy to install a 150 lb tcase solo...
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RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Got the radiator mount 90% done this weekend. I need to build a support link for the top of the radiator. Didn’t get a finished pic, but here’s a big radiator sitting in its home for the first time in a year and a half.
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the new mount is supported under the center of the radiator and floats between the frame rails. The previous iteration was a plate spanning between the rails and the minor frame flex destroyed one radiator. That’s an expensive mistake. Wasn’t going to let that happen again.

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if you look above the steering cylinder mount you can see the radiator mount cantilevered off the front bumper.

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RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Radiator mount is complete. Accessories mounted. I have modified a cheap weed sprayer (put a schrader valve in it) to pressurize to 25 psi with my air compressor to pre oil my engine. There’s an m16x1.5 plug on the driver side of the block right by the oil pump. I’ll pick up a barbed fitting at pirtek tomorrow when I go get my last steering line crimped. Then pressurize the oil in the weed sprayer and fill the engine that way while slowly turning the crank. Hoping this will a) prime the oil pump and prevent a dry start and b) pump up my new hydraulic lifters fully. There is still assembly lube in the engine, but since I finished assembling it over a year ago, I want to be sure everything has a nice film of oil.
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RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Got the fittings needed to complete the weed sprayer oil primer. I pressurized it to about 30 psi and seems like it will work well! Not bad for a $17 investment. Way cheaper than the melling deal that does the same thing for $213 from summit racing.
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the fitting on the end of the hose will thread into the place where the Allen head plug pictured goes for those wondering.
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Greg

Scope Creep
Admin
Are you going to pull a valve cover and look for oil flowing to the top end? Or do you have a gauge to check for oil pressure?

I primed my oil pump when I installed it, soaked my lifters in oil, etc.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Are you going to pull a valve cover and look for oil flowing to the top end? Or do you have a gauge to check for oil pressure?

I primed my oil pump when I installed it, soaked my lifters in oil, etc.
If I was smart I would have done this while it was still on the engine stand but I’m not. I have my Jeep oil pressure sending unit hooked up and I’ll just turn the key on and watch the pressure that way. I don’t have a specific gauge. I also soaked my lifters and filled the pump with oil, but I’ve got a lot of time and money (relatively speaking) tied up in this motor and I don’t want to risk a dry start.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
The end of the road is drawing nigh. I should have my tcase back on Friday. As long as fedex freight is accurate. Heck it might even show up tomorrow as it is already in SLC. The tcase put the brakes on the whole project. I love the 3 speed but it has not been without issue. The biggest issue I’ve had should finally be put to bed though. When I was installing my driveshafts a few weeks ago, I found the fresh rebuild was still able to have the front and rear outputs in opposite ranges. Something in the detent block was right. TWF wanted it back to take a look again, as they couldn’t get it to do that at all when they rebuilt it a year ago. They were super helpful and shipped it back on their dime. Which I was glad for because they wouldn’t provide any exploded parts diagrams or specs for the detent block. Wasn’t thrilled about pulling it again and the wait that would ensue though. Oh well.

They found that there was a tolerance stackup where the middle shift rail (toggles between different low range ratios) was on the long side of spec, the detent pill was small and the detent pocket was big. All in spec but the stackup caused issues. So they have resolved it, and will be implementing the fix on new cases and any cases coming in for service. Time to get this Jeep done and go wheelin!
 
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