Jeep LS swap for the LJ

[RockChucker]

Seems like sound logic to me. Maybe this is why my brother’s has constantly leaked with his clocking ring...

 

[glockman]

While I was installing the shifter I decided to address the 4low issue.
The GM PCM needs a ground signal on pin 16 of the C2 connector when the T-case is in low. This enables a different shift table so it shifts correctly. I had the harness screwed up originally and that caused terrible performance.
I thought the T case range selector switch was bad so I scavenged 3 more from the junk yard. The switch is just a two wire on/off contact.
Turns out mine was good, but the OEM switch closes in 4Hi or 4Lo so it's a no go unless I pull the case apart and grind the 4Hi portion down until it doesn't close the switch.
For now, I wired a switch under the T case handle that will send a ground signal to the PCM.

 

[glockman]

Good news. The leak is gone.
Bad news, once it was buttoned up, it had a loud clunking noise under any load. Wtf?
Ran it in 4wd with no rear driveline and the clunk is gone.
I ran through a few possibilities and got some info from @Gravy.
I'm thinking the chain is stretched and I have the wrong shift fork pads. The teeth on the synchro gear are a little chewed up.


There was also a bit of aluminum inside the syncro slide.


So I ordered a new 36 link 1.25" wide chain, shift fork pads and all the bearings that weren't replaced with the SYE kit.
Hopefully this gets rid of the clunk and the faint squeal it's had since the swap.

I also fixed the range selector issue while it's apart. Now it only closes the switch in low.

 

[glockman]

New chain and every bearing in the Tcase and its still clunking. I've gone through everything I can think of. I'm at a loss, especially due to the situation that it started, by simply removing and reinstalling the Tcase. So imma drive it till something grenades and then I'll know what it was.

Pulled the Tcase for one last time. The seal on the transmission side was leaking. This time I used a gasket that came in the rebuild kit. We'll see how it works.

In unrelated news, I have had issues with the oil pan I chose. The C6 vette pan I have has a pickup in the middle of the pan instead of the rear. I started losing oil pressure with the front end 20" above the rear.
I recently found poor man motorsports makes a retrofit pan that is the same depth, and has a trap door baffle for $300. Most other brands are selling the baffle for $200. So picked one up and got it installed yesterday.
The kit came with a new pickup, gasket and all new bolts.

 

[Gravy]

That sucks. Still clunking? Maybe take a video and we can all give it a listen.

 

[kmboren]

That sucks. Still clunking? Maybe take a video and we can all give it a listen.

Could it be a CV joint that needs rebuilt?

 

[DaveB]

Or even a control arm joint on the rear.

 

[glockman]

Or even a control arm joint on the rear.

The CV joints are brand new on both drive shafts. I have removed them individually and it only makes the sound in 2wd, which rules out the front. I have rebuilt and lubed the control arms when the motor went in and drove it a couple thousand miles since with no sound until I removed the T-case and installed the Lokar shifter. I thought it might be the shifter not engaging properly so I remove the cable and move it to drive at the sector shaft and same sound.

I'll post some video.

 

[glockman]

Well, the gasket on the trans side of the clocking ring is holding for now.
Got a chance to go out and wheel it a bit at Lil moab yesterday. The new oil pan is . Held pressure at every angle I put it in. Check one for the wins column. Tick is still there but at this point, I'm not terribly worried.