glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Thanks to Unstuck, I have very Shiney manifolds that fit? thanks a ton and nice to meet you Josh.
Jeep LS swap for the LJ
- Thread starter glockman
- Start date
- Location
- West Jordan
Wow, those look like they'll work great!
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
As an A side, I spent 20 minutes tearing the shop apart last night looking for the two header bolts I was missing. Then I remembered I had removed two broken bolts?
anderson750
I'm working on it Rose
- Location
- Price, Utah
When this happens to me, it usually takes an hour since I start picking stuff up and putting it away.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
Dang. I have a bunch of GM header bolts I could have thrown in.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I had spares, but they were for a Vette so they had a larger head. That got me thinking I was using the wrong bolts and I since I was 2 short I second guessed myself until I remember the 2 broken. So I used the larger head Vette bolts.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Got some key pieces yesterday.
Tach module, tcase shifter, trans shifter arm, check engine led and some more weatherpack plugs. I've been holding off on mounting the skid plate just to take it back off to install these shifty bits.
Also been waiting on the tach emulator to finish up a the last bit of wiring.
I'm a having a hard time with how to secure the starter and crank sensor wire that run around the front of the oil pan. Can't remember what the factory stuff looked like. I may just end up using metal P clips on oil pan bolts.
Anyone with nice wire management pics please share. I need inspiration.
Tach module, tcase shifter, trans shifter arm, check engine led and some more weatherpack plugs. I've been holding off on mounting the skid plate just to take it back off to install these shifty bits.
Also been waiting on the tach emulator to finish up a the last bit of wiring.
I'm a having a hard time with how to secure the starter and crank sensor wire that run around the front of the oil pan. Can't remember what the factory stuff looked like. I may just end up using metal P clips on oil pan bolts.
Anyone with nice wire management pics please share. I need inspiration.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Got the tach emulator mounted and wired. I stuck it in the dash behind or rather above the glove box, connected to the bottom of the airbag housing.
Now the only in cab wires left are the check engine led and the tcc brake wire.
To finish the under hood routing I need fenders so the went back on with the grill.
I never liked the PDC mount on my high line fenders so I built a new mounting bracket.
Turned out pretty good.
I finished up the wiring in the PDC and the external fuse block.
I'm powering the fuse block with the Asd shut down relay. It's 20a and was used by the Jeep to power the coils and injectors. The jeep pcm provides ground so all it required was grounding the enable pin and the run-start wire will power on the relay, then feeding the aux fuse panel.
This is also the method for powering the starter relay but the fuel pump is controlled by + enable from the GM ecu.
The fuse box before I buttoned it up.
The aux fuse panel
I also mounted the Novak T case shifter and.... It's probably the wrong bracket. The T case side is an inch higher then the shift arm. It also contacted the vent line on the T case. I'll look more into it tomorrow.
On a positive note, I mocked the radiator in and it fits perfectly.
Now the only in cab wires left are the check engine led and the tcc brake wire.
To finish the under hood routing I need fenders so the went back on with the grill.
I never liked the PDC mount on my high line fenders so I built a new mounting bracket.
Turned out pretty good.
I finished up the wiring in the PDC and the external fuse block.
I'm powering the fuse block with the Asd shut down relay. It's 20a and was used by the Jeep to power the coils and injectors. The jeep pcm provides ground so all it required was grounding the enable pin and the run-start wire will power on the relay, then feeding the aux fuse panel.
This is also the method for powering the starter relay but the fuel pump is controlled by + enable from the GM ecu.
The fuse box before I buttoned it up.
The aux fuse panel
I also mounted the Novak T case shifter and.... It's probably the wrong bracket. The T case side is an inch higher then the shift arm. It also contacted the vent line on the T case. I'll look more into it tomorrow.
On a positive note, I mocked the radiator in and it fits perfectly.
LJTim
Active Member
- Location
- Herriman, UT
Dang dude! This thing is moving along. I'm super impressed. Great work.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
It's funny, I feel like I haven't made much progress.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Started out today looking at the transmission shift linkage. I mounted the Novak cable mount on the bell housing and the lokar arm on the transmission sector shaft. Then I broke the plastic housing on the jeep shift cable trying to get it out of the bracket. So I'll have to order a new cable. Moving on.
I called Novak about the transfer case shifter and sent them some pictures. They quickly responded with a solution. I didn't have the nuts tightened on the bracket, which tilted the cable up. I tightened them and it's now pointed in the right direction. On to the T-case vent.
In this picture you can see where it used to be (below the lower cable rubber grommet) it turned 90 towards the front, right into the Novak bracket.
I tried to bend it and it snapped. No big deal, I'll drill it out, tap it and use a brass fitting. WRONG. That elbow isn't just pressed into the aluminum, it's at least 3/4" deep which is the full depth I needed to drill to tap it. I don't know what the elbow is made of but it was not easily drilled. I chewed up three 7/16 bits, sharpened them and got another 1/32". I was able to drill it out with a 21/64 bit to about 3/8 of an inch but it took an hour. At that point I had this.
At this point, I tried to tap it but only got a couple threads. Since it's a vent and it's tucked up on the T case behind a skid, I decided to JB weld it in. I've seen JB weld hold worse loads and worse comes to worse, it's a vent and will leak until I figure out a better solution. I hated to do it half ass'd but I had already pulled the case and spent way too much time screwing with it.
I think it will hold.
With the case out, I installed the Teraflex skid and started to figure out the transmission mount location. In this pic, the trans mount, which is not low profile is level with the bottom of the frame rails.
The mount landed just short of the Jeep trans and right on the corner of the brace. So I cut it out and filled all the old holes so I have a clean slate.
I got a little rushed here and didn't get a really flush weld on one of the plugs, you can see the weld seam after grinding, I don't like that either, but it's a skid, it'll have scrape marks to hide my crap weld soon enough.
I reinstalled the T case to check shifting and found this boss was hitting the floor when the transmission was set where the mount will be. I gave it a little more clearance.
With that boss out of the way it tucks nicely. I still have some shifting issues. It won't go into 4hi, which is all the way back on the 241C. I think the cable is running out of travel so I need to adjust it in the brackets to give it a little more rearward travel. It may also be the gates in the shifter.
I ordered -6 an fittings and some hose to run the fuel line and transmission cooler lines. That's it for a few days. My work week starts tomorrow and I'll be racing the Rhino Rally in St George this weekend so it's time to gather parts lists and make some orders so next week is productive.
I called Novak about the transfer case shifter and sent them some pictures. They quickly responded with a solution. I didn't have the nuts tightened on the bracket, which tilted the cable up. I tightened them and it's now pointed in the right direction. On to the T-case vent.
In this picture you can see where it used to be (below the lower cable rubber grommet) it turned 90 towards the front, right into the Novak bracket.
I tried to bend it and it snapped. No big deal, I'll drill it out, tap it and use a brass fitting. WRONG. That elbow isn't just pressed into the aluminum, it's at least 3/4" deep which is the full depth I needed to drill to tap it. I don't know what the elbow is made of but it was not easily drilled. I chewed up three 7/16 bits, sharpened them and got another 1/32". I was able to drill it out with a 21/64 bit to about 3/8 of an inch but it took an hour. At that point I had this.
At this point, I tried to tap it but only got a couple threads. Since it's a vent and it's tucked up on the T case behind a skid, I decided to JB weld it in. I've seen JB weld hold worse loads and worse comes to worse, it's a vent and will leak until I figure out a better solution. I hated to do it half ass'd but I had already pulled the case and spent way too much time screwing with it.
I think it will hold.
With the case out, I installed the Teraflex skid and started to figure out the transmission mount location. In this pic, the trans mount, which is not low profile is level with the bottom of the frame rails.
The mount landed just short of the Jeep trans and right on the corner of the brace. So I cut it out and filled all the old holes so I have a clean slate.
I got a little rushed here and didn't get a really flush weld on one of the plugs, you can see the weld seam after grinding, I don't like that either, but it's a skid, it'll have scrape marks to hide my crap weld soon enough.
I reinstalled the T case to check shifting and found this boss was hitting the floor when the transmission was set where the mount will be. I gave it a little more clearance.
With that boss out of the way it tucks nicely. I still have some shifting issues. It won't go into 4hi, which is all the way back on the 241C. I think the cable is running out of travel so I need to adjust it in the brackets to give it a little more rearward travel. It may also be the gates in the shifter.
I ordered -6 an fittings and some hose to run the fuel line and transmission cooler lines. That's it for a few days. My work week starts tomorrow and I'll be racing the Rhino Rally in St George this weekend so it's time to gather parts lists and make some orders so next week is productive.
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Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
Impressive work bud
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You've got to be kidding, you're making massive progress all the time! It's neat to see this move along so quickly, I'm impressed with what you're getting done Chad. Can't wait to hear it running!
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Thanks man. Hope your health is improving. On the plus side, you have plenty of internet viewing time
Thanks for the motivation!
I knew this would be the hardest stage of the build. My biggest challenge is I really have ADD. I go out to the shop and have to really focus on one problem at a time and the entire time I am staring at 5 other things I need to do and I get ahead of myself. I'm doing well at writing out tasks for the day and trying to solve/complete them. The other issue is I work 12 hour shifts so I get a lot done on weekends, then I'm on pause for 3 or 4 days which seems like an eternity. First world problem, I know.
I'm really close to firing it up and I'm fighting the urge to throw things together and plan to fix them later, because later never comes.
Lastly, I should have either printed the entire wiring diagram section of the jeep service manual or bought a burner laptop for the garage. I get going on a circuit and run into an unplanned wire or want to route something differently and I have to go back into the house or pull out my phone and trace wires. I used to have a shop laptop but it died and I haven't replaced it.
I also tried to take my time on the wiring. I don't want to go to fire it up and have an issue that I have to dig back through looms for. I wanted to make sure it was right the first time. We'll see how I did soon.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
UPNO4
Addicted
- Location
- Lindon, Ut
Looking pretty sweet wonder when this will be on my list. I may need a second Jeep I like driving mine 2 much right now
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Wiring, is finished! I mounted the GM ECU on the drivers fender and ended up rerouting all my power wires and having to re-solder all of them. Not a ton of fun but I'm pretty happy with the routing and how it turned out. Everything on top is all loomed and routed. I still have to tie some of the stuff under the block and on the transmission/transfer case. The Truck oil pans have provisions to connect the O2, crank position and starter wires that go around the front of the block to the oil pan. The Corvette pan lacks those bosses or threaded holes. I'm using some GM style clamps and some metal/rubber P-clips and have also routed some stuff differently.
I used the stock Truck Alternator to batter/starter cable, just cut the battery side off since it goes to the drivers side. The main trunk goes from the Alt to the Starter where I tied it to the jeep battery/starter cable. It's a simple solution but I may change it for a more custom setup in the future. I'm not sure I like the big read box on the Alt/power steering bracket.
Got the fuel line connected with braided line and Russell AN fittings with my custom fuel pressure gauge installed. I used a EFI to AN adapter with a fuel gauge port and then a 45% fitting behind that to get the fuel rail to the back of the block where it was pointed pretty parallel to the firewall.
I tried to repair the trans shift cable but it didn't work so I have a decision to make. The cable is $150. A new lokar shifter with cable is $300. So I have to decide if I want to stay with the stock shifter or go to a Lokar. I would like to stay stock but there are varying reports of success with the Novak setup using the stock shifter. The Lokar setup I'm looking at is this.
I installed the skid plate to get final measurements for the transmission mount and found I was still hitting the transfer case. It looks like I have two options. I can run a 1" spacer between the skid and the frame or run a clocking ring. Northwest fab makes a clocking ring that will clock it up 1.5" which should clear my floor and the skid.
With EJS looming, I am leaning towards making some spacers and ordering the clocking ring.
I pulled the drive lines from the axle side and measured for modifications. I had planned on taking them to Tom Woods. Anyone have a better option? Also, the 241C T-case has a flange on the front output. Should I convert to a yoke or have a flange installed on the drive line to run 1310 joints?
Things left to do
Heater hoses
install coolant reservoir
source and install windshield washer bottle/pump.
weld Jeep pedal to GM pedal assembly.
lower radiator hose
The list is getting short!
I used the stock Truck Alternator to batter/starter cable, just cut the battery side off since it goes to the drivers side. The main trunk goes from the Alt to the Starter where I tied it to the jeep battery/starter cable. It's a simple solution but I may change it for a more custom setup in the future. I'm not sure I like the big read box on the Alt/power steering bracket.
Got the fuel line connected with braided line and Russell AN fittings with my custom
fuel pressure gauge installed. I used a EFI to AN adapter with a fuel gauge port and then a 45% fitting behind that to get the fuel rail to the back of the block where it was pointed pretty parallel to the firewall.I tried to repair the trans shift cable but it didn't work so I have a decision to make. The cable is $150. A new lokar shifter with cable is $300. So I have to decide if I want to stay with the stock shifter or go to a Lokar. I would like to stay stock but there are varying reports of success with the Novak setup using the stock shifter. The Lokar setup I'm looking at is this.
I installed the skid plate to get final measurements for the transmission mount and found I was still hitting the transfer case. It looks like I have two options. I can run a 1" spacer between the skid and the frame or run a clocking ring. Northwest fab makes a clocking ring that will clock it up 1.5" which should clear my floor and the skid.
With EJS looming, I am leaning towards making some spacers and ordering the clocking ring.
I pulled the drive lines from the axle side and measured for modifications. I had planned on taking them to Tom Woods. Anyone have a better option? Also, the 241C T-case has a flange on the front output. Should I convert to a yoke or have a flange installed on the drive line to run 1310 joints?
Things left to do
Heater hoses
install coolant reservoir
source and install windshield washer bottle/pump.
weld Jeep pedal to GM pedal assembly.
lower radiator hose
The list is getting short!
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Looks killer!
My brother had to get a clocking ring for his 241 behind his 4L80 for the same reason. He also had the same front flange. His Jeep is pretty similar to mine, so he had to do a 2 piece front driveshaft as well, but he retained the flange and was able to get a yoke that bolted up to it for a 1350 u joint. Both he and I used Axis driveline in Woodscross area. Eric, the owner used to work for 6 states in Salt Lake. He's the only guy I'll use for drivelines because I've always been treated right and gotten what I ordered. Closer down towards Lehi, I have heard good things about Gaylons, but no first hand experience.
I used Dorman 603-001 (Link) that I got from Autozone for my washer bottle. I drilled a hole and used the OEM Jeep pump. If I remember right it was a 7/8" hole. Never had a problem with it and been running it for 7 or 8 years.
My brother had to get a clocking ring for his 241 behind his 4L80 for the same reason. He also had the same front flange. His Jeep is pretty similar to mine, so he had to do a 2 piece front driveshaft as well, but he retained the flange and was able to get a yoke that bolted up to it for a 1350 u joint. Both he and I used Axis driveline in Woodscross area. Eric, the owner used to work for 6 states in Salt Lake. He's the only guy I'll use for drivelines because I've always been treated right and gotten what I ordered. Closer down towards Lehi, I have heard good things about Gaylons, but no first hand experience.
I used Dorman 603-001 (Link) that I got from Autozone for my washer bottle. I drilled a hole and used the OEM Jeep pump. If I remember right it was a 7/8" hole. Never had a problem with it and been running it for 7 or 8 years.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I also have a drive line currently at Axis. I used to do all my stuff through Curtis Tatton's drivelines but Eric is in Bountiful so I gave him a shot. I haven't installed it yet since I just picked it up today but I'll report.
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- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I've bought a few things from Axis. They are my current go to . They are fixing my 2-3 yr old front Tom Woods front driveline that the joints are bad in and I popped the weld....