Maldito's 99 4Runner Build

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
So after looking around for 4Runners and test driving a handful of cars I quickly realized that not all 4Runners are created equal. Taking the advice from my last thread and keeping an eye out for key details in the 4Runners I browsed I found a couple that were very much potential take homes. Eventually as a last minute decision to take a look at 1 more 4Runner I came across a '99 5 speed 4Runner that hit the ticket! This thing is in excellent shape bodywise, the interior is in 8/10 shape, all the electronics work, it doesnt have any leaks and it runs very very smoothly!

I present you my new (to me) 99 4Runner!

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Current 1/30/14:

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So onto my list of mods:

Maintenance:

-Change Spark Plugs -DONE
-Spark Plug Wires - DONE
-Timing Belt - DONE
-Accessory Belts -DONE
-Air Filter -DONE
-Water Pump -DONE
-Drain and Refill Differentials -DONE
-Replace Antifreeze - DONE
-Drain and Refill Tranny and Transfer Case - DONE
-
Replace Starter Contacts - Done 1/21/14
-Replace PCV Valve - DONE 2/15/14
-Replace Lower Ball Joints - DONE 3/24/14
-Replace Outer Tie Rods - DONE 3/24/14
-Replace Steering Rack Bushings - DONE 3/24/14
-Replace o2 Sensor - DONE 3/24/14

Short Term Mods within the next month or two:

-OME lift kit - DONE
-17" Wheels -DONE
-33" tires - DONE 1/18/14
-5.29 Gears /maybe 4.88's?
-Replace worn out bushings
-Add Rock Sliders -DONE
-Add CB Radio - DONE

Long Term Goals:

-Add E-Locker rear axle - Bought/Not Installed
-ARB Front Locker
-Air Compressor - DONE 5/26/14
-RTT
-Hot Shower
-Bumpers
 
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theferg

DD for Life
Location
Southern Utah
Looks good! Makes me miss mine a bit...though my Tacoma is just about the same thing anyway. :p

I like the sounds of the mods you're planning. If you want to do the elocker the semi-hard way (retrofit into your current axle) I've got an elocker diff I'm trying to get rid of right now.... ;)

-Ferg
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
Very cool. Nice and clean, make sure to add those sliders early to keep it that way.

Yeah for sure! That's probably gonna be one of the first things I do once I have it ready to rock. It will be a couple of weeks before I can actually drive it though because unfortunately the guy I bought it from owed on it and so I wont get the title until the bank clears it and mails it out to me. I'm pretty sure I cant register it until I have the title, correct?

Looks good! Makes me miss mine a bit...though my Tacoma is just about the same thing anyway. :p

I like the sounds of the mods you're planning. If you want to do the elocker the semi-hard way (retrofit into your current axle) I've got an elocker diff I'm trying to get rid of right now.... ;)

-Ferg

It's certainly something I would consider, but there was mention that retrofitting an e-locker third frequently ends up in a leaking third member? I'm not sure that I wanna have a leaking axle later so that's why I figured I would replace the whole thing.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
That was quick, looks like you got a winner! Do yourself a favor and google "4runner lower ball joint failure"... if your previous owner doesn't know when they were replaced last, I'd stick 'em on your to-do list.

I need to do the timing belt and water pump on Big Sexy too, and so does Dutchman. We should find a Saturday and make a party of it.
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
Sounds like a party to me! And I did plan on replacing those also after reading about Steve's run in with them.
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
Thanks guys, I was pretty much on the prowl for them non stosp for a little over a week after the last thread shed light on them, through looking online and contacts that I knew I checked out several and this one just felt too good not to.

I'm feeling ready to start working on it but I feel I should consider holding off until the title arrives. Has anyone ever dealt with a lien and had to wait for the title to get mailed to them?
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
So I've been reading alot about the gearing people choose, and with the automatic trans it seems some people get by with 4.88s and some even go up to 5.29 gearing with 33" tires. I'm planning to go with 35" tires for the additional bit of ground clearance on the axles, ease of rolling over obstacles and because it is a common tire size on the trail where if 1 spare isnt enough type of disaster. The motor feels really peppy with the manual transmission so would it be overkill to install 5.29's with a manual trans on 35's? I expect to load it up with cargo each time I take it out so I figure the extra gearing will help move it up the mountain with ease but I dont want to be to high strung at cruising speed.
 

4Runner

Active Member
Location
sunset, ut
I don't have your motor I have the 3.0L but I am running 35in pitbull a rockers and I went with 4:88's and love them. Put me about stock. And I get 16-17 mpg. Off road wise plenty of torque and wheel speed. Just my 2 cents
 

AddictedOffroad

The Yota Specialists
Location
Windsor, CO
4.88s for 35s with the 5spd. 5.29s for 35s with the A/T.

A/T overdrive ratio is .70
M/T overdrive ratio is .83

5.29s will have you running well over 3000rpms at 75mph. 4.88s will run just under it. You'll be more efficient with 4.88s in the manual.

You're also gonna need a 2" body lift for the 35s on top of the 3" kit. We are building one with 3" BOSS kit from Toytec right now with only a 1" body lift, and we are cutting sheet metal and "massaging" the firewall A LOT to clear them.

ARB bumpers are huge approach angle killers. And 35s will rub it. Think high clearance. Think tube.

Good deal on the 4runner though.
 
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sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
4.88s for 35s with the 5spd. 5.29s for 35s with the A/T.

A/T overdrive ratio is .70
M/T overdrive ratio is .83

5.29s will have you running well over 3000rpms at 75mph. 4.88s will run just under it. You'll be more efficient with 4.88s in the manual.

You're also gonna need a 2" body lift for the 35s on top of the 3" kit. We are building one with 3" BOSS kit from Toytec right now with only a 1" body lift, and we are cutting sheet metal and "massaging" the firewall A LOT to clear them.

ARB bumpers are huge approach angle killers. And 35s will rub it. Think high clearance. Think tube.

Good deal on the 4runner though.

thanks for the information on that! It's likely I'll go with 4.88's if it will keep my power around what it is now then. As far as clearing the 35's I am planning on tubbing the fenders like TJDukit mentioned so that I can get up travel without rubbing.

I don't know much about upper control arms though, are they really necessary or is that just an extra step some swear by and others don't? I do plan to replace lower ball joints for sure.

The bumpers I like how CBI and similar manufactures look over tube bumpers, so I'll probably look towards that although not ARB because those are huge and kill the angle like you said.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
First of alll, CONGRATS! How many miles are on your runner?

Here's my 2 cents, though addicted offroad does far more toyotas than I do.

First off, if the front lower ball joints haven't been replaced in the past year, do it. I recommend Toyota factory ball joints, but MOOG are the next best thing. I run Toyotas.

I vote for 5.29s, but 4.88s will be just fine too. 4.88s will have a higher top speed, 5.29s will feel like more power for hills.

To fit 35's you're going to need a 1" body lift or you'll need to cut and tub.

WIth running 35's on the IFS, the weak link becomes the spider gears. The only upgrade I know of is an ARB front locker ($1200 + install price). I recommend having east coast for gears and axles. The ARB front locker replaces the weak tacoma spider gears. You won't break spider gears with an ARB up front.

For upper control arms, they're definitely necessary for proper castor and camber. Get the Specialty Products/Light Racing ones. I've had camburgs, and my buddies have icons and total chaos, and the Specialty Products are WAY better, half the price, and they actually allow you to adjust camber and castor.

I would get a rear bumper before a front bumper. The factory front bumpers have a semi-decent approach angle. The rear bumpers will drag on every ledge, so I'd get those first.




This probably is too much information at once. Congrats, and enjoy your vehicle. It'll take you a lot of places (like QTD) without needing any mods. :)
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
Thanks for all that info Steve, I certainly appreciate you laying that all out, I think the more info the merrier, that way all my ducks are lined up as I start getting everything ready. The 4Runner has 195k miles on it but it has documentation showing the timing belt done at 90k so it's due for one now which is nice knowing that it's not overdue for it. Not sure about the ball joints though.

I'll probably cut and tub instead of adding a body lift to minimize lift and keep COG low. They already have surprisingly good ground clearance in the belly area so that's a plus. I am planning on getting an ARB front locker so I dont think I'll have to worry about the spider gears. What do you mean about east coast gears/axles?

I'll take a look at the Specialty Products UCA's though, thanks for the tip!

For the type of wheeling that I'll be doing off the bat I dont suspect I'll run into any issues with the factory bumpers, I think if anything I'll remove the rear trailer hitch before that is what hangs the lowest on the rear end right now. Do these come with different gearing for the tow package models?
 

dutchman

KI7KSV
Location
Boise, Id
If it has an e-locker it'll have 4.30s as the stock gears. Non e-lockers had 4.10s. It's that way with the autos but I'm not 100% sure about the manual trans ones.
 
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