Off Road Lighting - Mixing Different Gauge Wires

I plan on running LOTS of lights on my rig, some for driving, but most for lighting up large areas for setting up multi family campsite. I'll be running 4, six to nine inch driving/spots low down on the grill/bumper for driving. All driving will be under 30MPH, logging roads, etc....

The majority of the lighting will be to provide bright lighting, 360 degrees around my truck, hopefully out to around 100-150 feet. I have two Yakima LockNLoad Platforms, one mounted above the cab and one mounted over the bed, so the "campsite lighting" will be up high. I haven't decided yet on either many "pods" all around, or "light bars" all around or a mix and match.

My question at this time deals with using the correct AWG wire for multiple lights in parallel. Looking at the amps I'll be drawing, especially near the rear of the vehicle (maybe a light bar and a couple of pods in parallel facing rearward), I "think" I'll be looking at either 10 or 8 AWG wires. Most of the lights I've been looking at have pigtails that appear to be in the 14 to 12 AWG range. Since the pigtail will only be feeding the individual light, wired in parallel to other lights, will the higher gauge (smaller wire) pigtails work without issues when connected to the 10 to 8 AWG "buss"?

As one example - on a line with 3 lights in parallel (one on/off switch/relay), I'm going to run a 10 AWG wire to a terminal block, which will handle the amps being drawn by all 3 lights, but can I drop down to 14 AWG from the terminal block to each light? Each individual light will be drawing amps that 14 gauge can handle, but too many amps if they were combined together in series for 14 AWG.
 

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Warning redneck answer ahead... If you're mixing wiring sizes it may not matter if you have a single 10amp fuse, if you boost that up to a 30 amp you might smoke a wire first. 😆 Probably won't be the 10 or 8 wire...
 
If the lights are joined together - truly parallel, what you are talking about doing is theoretically ok, but only theoretically - that is if the resistance of each connection is really identical. I'd say if you are going to do good solder connections, you would be ok. The problem is if any of those parallel circuits has a bit more resistance that the others, then you will overload the better circuit. This would be dangerous and a fire hazard. Because of the variables, I wouldn't do it. I would run a bigger single wire anywhere you are running parallel circuits.
 

lhracing

Well-Known Member
Location
Layton, UT
Sum the current (amps) of each light that are in parallel on a circuit then use the table below to get the proper awg wire.


Amps
@ 13.8 Volts
4-7 ft.7-10 ft.10-13 ft.13-16 ft.16-19 ft.19-22 ft.
0-1016-ga.14-ga.14-ga.12-ga.10-ga.10-ga.
10–1514-ga.14-ga.12-ga.10-ga.8-ga.8-ga.
15-2012-ga.12-ga.12-ga.10-ga.8-ga.8-ga.
20-3510-ga.10-ga.10-ga.10-ga.8-ga.8-ga.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
If the lights are joined together - truly parallel, what you are talking about doing is theoretically ok, but only theoretically - that is if the resistance of each connection is really identical. I'd say if you are going to do good solder connections, you would be ok. The problem is if any of those parallel circuits has a bit more resistance that the others, then you will overload the better circuit. This would be dangerous and a fire hazard. Because of the variables, I wouldn't do it. I would run a bigger single wire anywhere you are running parallel circuits.

What if he ran his larger supply wire up to the rack and then used a bus bar to split it out to the lights? Wouldn't that theoretically balance the resistance more reliably than a series of wire splices?

 

DaveB

Long Jeep Fan
Location
Holladay, Utah
Instead of a bus bar make it a fuse block? You could run the larger gauge wire to the block, then out with separate fuses for each set of lights. I run mine through a 120 amp relay from Amazon.
You need to protect each circuit with their own fuse. If you feed a heavy line up then split to smaller gauge wires without a fuse you could get a short in one of the smaller gauge circuits that might not blow the big fuse. This could lead to frying the wire and a fire. Do what xjtony said.
 

xjtony

Well-Known Member
Location
Grantsville, Ut
You need to protect each circuit with their own fuse. If you feed a heavy line up then split to smaller gauge wires without a fuse you could get a short in one of the smaller gauge circuits that might not blow the big fuse. This could lead to frying the wire and a fire. Do what xjtony said.
I meant running a fuse block with fuses for each light or set of lights. Heavy gauge from the battery to a 120amp relay, then whatever fuses needed out to each set of lights
 
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