- Location
- Draper, UT
No problem. plenty of room to back a trailer in as well.
Shop / Tools Opportunity to learn/experience welding... Episode 1
- Thread starter frieed
- Start date
No problem. plenty of room to back a trailer in as well.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Awesome. As soon as it is done acting as a mobile parking spot for my Grand Prix, I'll let you know.
- Location
- Draper, UT
doesn't make a difference if the trailer is occupied
- Location
- Draper, UT
Bump....
Still open for a bit of welding
Still open for a bit of welding
carsonc1974
Active Member
what a generous offer. I love seeing this, keeps me coming back to this forum!!!!
I could use some tips from an experienced welder. I just got a miller 135, trying to figure it out. I have very little experience beyond stitching body panels.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Hmmm. I need to build a Rotopax carrier for my FJ60 rear bumper before Cruise Moab. What times work for you?
- Location
- Draper, UT
For youtube training, go here: https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks
Enormous amount of info. Mostly it will show you what a good weld looks like, getting to the point where you can make said welds is all about practice.
For body panels, look at the posts by MP&C here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53534
that guy is an artist with patch panels
Bring your welder and we can work with it. Do you have shield gas or just flux-core?
I'm usually available weekends and most evenings. I'm about to start painting kitchen cabinets, so I might get a little busy for a while, but would probably enjoy a diversion or two.
Let me know.
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- Location
- The Village of Kay
frieed, I will get back to you when I have some time to look at what i need.
- Location
- Draper, UT
:thumbs:
the guy i got the welder from said it will do gas or flux core, just need to swap the polarity i guess?! i'm pretty sure its got some solid wire in it now but it doesnt specify one way or another on the spool..
i have several different spools that came with the welder so i believe we could do flux core or solid shielded.
if we wanna hook up with one of the other guys one night, i'll supply the welder and hang out to learn some myself. mostly interested in how to set this thing up properly, swap spools and weld 2 different metal gauges together. the rest i'm definitely willing to learn through some burn time.
in the mean time, i'll scope out those video's. thanks for the links.
- Location
- Draper, UT
Most solid wires are copper colored while flux core is usually silver. Do you have a gas bottle ?
Also, the drive rollers for flux core have serrations while the ones for solid wire are a smooth groove.
Also, the drive rollers for flux core have serrations while the ones for solid wire are a smooth groove.
OK, the wire in it is definitely copper so it should be solid like I thought. I'll check the drive roller tonight to make sure it's correct.
I do have a gas bottle, it's running a bit low so almost due for a fill.. but it's the 75/25 mix.
One of the spools I have is labeled Flux core, so I should be able to change the drive roller/polarity and run either properly!?
After watching the first couple videos of that series, I'm thinking the issues I'm having so far are ground related. Thanks again for the YouTube recommendation, surprised those didn't pop up in my previous searches. That dude's mig series rocks so far!
I do have a gas bottle, it's running a bit low so almost due for a fill.. but it's the 75/25 mix.
One of the spools I have is labeled Flux core, so I should be able to change the drive roller/polarity and run either properly!?
After watching the first couple videos of that series, I'm thinking the issues I'm having so far are ground related. Thanks again for the YouTube recommendation, surprised those didn't pop up in my previous searches. That dude's mig series rocks so far!
- Location
- Draper, UT
Yes.
Flux core will also run hotter than C25 for better penetration. Straight CO2 runs hotter as well (not as hot as FC) and is cheaper. I keep some FC around because you can use it in breezy conditions when the gas for solid wire would get blown away.
The welder seems to be doing better with a new ground clamp. Now I'm sure any problems I encounter are all me! 
Another question, I welded my rear shock x-member to the frame.. looks pretty good (to me) except for some strange brown dots?!
Is this some sort of contaminant? Flap disked the frame, the x-member was bare metal (I just brake cleaned it).
Any insight? Tips?
Another question, I welded my rear shock x-member to the frame.. looks pretty good (to me) except for some strange brown dots?!
Is this some sort of contaminant? Flap disked the frame, the x-member was bare metal (I just brake cleaned it).
Any insight? Tips?
- Location
- Draper, UT
If the spots can be flaked off and kind of look like glass, that's silicon that's added to the wire as a cleaning/flux agent and is normal.
Oh, and running that vertical uphill will dig in better than running downhill.
Oh, and running that vertical uphill will dig in better than running downhill.
- Location
- Draper, UT
This vid tells all https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNe4fo6hxAQ
- Location
- Draper, UT
I just noticed this... Make sure the cleaner is not Chlorinated. When chlorinated cleaner residue is exposed to a welding arc it will decompose and release phosgene gas, the stuff used during WW1 to kill people. Acetone works well and is much safer.
http://www.thefabricator.com/articl...ore-welding-a-risky-move-that-can-turn-deadly