- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Afternoon now works better for me
Shop / Tools Opportunity to learn/experience welding... Episode 1
- Thread starter frieed
- Start date
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
I guess I'm open really any time after 1400 or so? Let me know.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
That works great for me. Where am I headed and what should I bring? (Gloves, helmet, 🥓)
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
Mean burger, Eric, thanks!
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
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- Location
- Draper, UT
Bump
- Location
- Draper, UT
bump.... because I'm a glutton for punishment
I can lay down some serious beads with a wire feed. I do great with a 110 flux core, and I can do excellent with a 220 on gas.
However, with my 220 stick, I am so inconsistent I should be a politician. The same stick, on the same metal, in the same direction, one right after the other, I will have a decent weld and then a garbage weld. I get poor flow, and little holes in the weld. Flat or vertical, forward or backward, I cannot produce the same weld twice.
Also, sometimes my slag will pop right off with a clean tap. Other times I have to pound the weld a ton to clear the slag.
I thought I would get better with time but I haven’t. They all hold, but just don’t look pretty.
Here are a couple photos. I’d give the first weld a 7 on the good weld scale. A little rougher right at the bottom.
I’d give the second weld like a 3.5-4. I did one right after the other. Vertical.
Any pointers?
However, with my 220 stick, I am so inconsistent I should be a politician. The same stick, on the same metal, in the same direction, one right after the other, I will have a decent weld and then a garbage weld. I get poor flow, and little holes in the weld. Flat or vertical, forward or backward, I cannot produce the same weld twice.
Also, sometimes my slag will pop right off with a clean tap. Other times I have to pound the weld a ton to clear the slag.
I thought I would get better with time but I haven’t. They all hold, but just don’t look pretty.
Here are a couple photos. I’d give the first weld a 7 on the good weld scale. A little rougher right at the bottom.
I’d give the second weld like a 3.5-4. I did one right after the other. Vertical.
Any pointers?
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- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I have zero pointers for stick, but the majority of the early welds on Britney look like that. What kind of machine are you using?
It’s an oooold Miller thunderbolt
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
What rod are you using? What's the rated amperage setting for it?
Is it new rod or has it been exposed to moisture, out of a sealed container?
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
I am no sort of expert but it looks to me like you flat out missed the second bead. It's offset from where the tubes join.
I have the same problem even with wire feed, but it was worse when I was trying to teach myself stick. I don't know if it's my eyesight, my hat, my unsteady hand, or just a lack of attention to detail. Probably all of the above?
1/8 7014. I do not know created amperage. I ran a couple practice beads until it starts without sticking but doesn’t burn a hole either.
Stored in the container it comes in, but probably not airtight. Maybe five years old?
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
You might throw those rods in the oven for a half hour. That will pull the moisture out of them. The flux absorbs moisture from the air if they aren't stored in an air tight container.
- Location
- Draper, UT
7014 supposedly doesn't absorb moisture like 7018.
They are also considered a drag type rod so keep the arc so short that you feel the flux dragging on the metal.
To me, that porosity looks more like contamination, which would also explain the variability from weld to weld.
If the material is really dirty, then 6010/6011 is your friend.
They are also considered a drag type rod so keep the arc so short that you feel the flux dragging on the metal.
To me, that porosity looks more like contamination, which would also explain the variability from weld to weld.
If the material is really dirty, then 6010/6011 is your friend.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Who uses a variable amperage finger control for their TIG? Like a tig button?
I NEED one. For this job wacky out of position job I had to play Thighmaster with the foot pedal and that = ugly weld.
I got the job done but it's not pretty. I don't want the momentary on/off style nor do I want the rotary knob or tank track roller type.
Specifically has anyone used this one?
I NEED one. For this job wacky out of position job I had to play Thighmaster with the foot pedal and that = ugly weld.
I got the job done but it's not pretty. I don't want the momentary on/off style nor do I want the rotary knob or tank track roller type.
Specifically has anyone used this one?
Touch 4 TIG Welding Remote Fingertip Torch Hand Control - SSC Controls
The Touch 4 fingertip control provides simple, easy amperage control at your TIG torch. Innovative concept allows minimal movement required.
ssccontrols.com
- Location
- Draper, UT
I have a Tig button, https://www.6061.com/tigbutton.htm, not the one you are looking at but my impressions are.
The bad:
Tig button is too much money (would have tried the one you posted had I known about it).
Cheap build quality. More like a slapped together home project than a commercial or industrial product.
Doesn't mount well to my torch and is always moving around.
The pressure required to get full amps will tire my hand during long welding sessions and affect the steadiness of the torch.
The good:
Love a torch mounted controller for tacking projects up before welding them out. Once tacked, my projects can generally be put in position to weld out on the bench while sitting on a stool so I switch back to a foot pedal.
I have not yet done any out of position work with it.
You are welcome to come try the one I have, although in use, it will be pretty different from the lever style one you linked in your post
The bad:
Tig button is too much money (would have tried the one you posted had I known about it).
Cheap build quality. More like a slapped together home project than a commercial or industrial product.
Doesn't mount well to my torch and is always moving around.
The pressure required to get full amps will tire my hand during long welding sessions and affect the steadiness of the torch.
The good:
Love a torch mounted controller for tacking projects up before welding them out. Once tacked, my projects can generally be put in position to weld out on the bench while sitting on a stool so I switch back to a foot pedal.
I have not yet done any out of position work with it.
You are welcome to come try the one I have, although in use, it will be pretty different from the lever style one you linked in your post
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
@frieed I wanted the 6061.com version!
But they don't make the 6061 version it for my 9 pin Vulcan ProTig 205.
Is it infinitely variable or stepped like the SSC Controls one?
This ssc controls one is the only one I've found for this machine.
I'd definitely like to try it. I had a momentary on my old machine and it was okish but not ideal for many jobs since it was on/off.
As my skills progress I'm definitely doing more out of position with a tig than I used too like cages, bikes and under stuff.
But they don't make the 6061 version it for my 9 pin Vulcan ProTig 205.
Is it infinitely variable or stepped like the SSC Controls one?
This ssc controls one is the only one I've found for this machine.
I'd definitely like to try it. I had a momentary on my old machine and it was okish but not ideal for many jobs since it was on/off.
As my skills progress I'm definitely doing more out of position with a tig than I used too like cages, bikes and under stuff.
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