Rot Box’s Superduty

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
I deleted the EBPV from my 2002 about 5 years ago. EGTs are a bit lower and no more problems with it. Mine had developed a small oil leak, so I replaced the turbo outlet with a non-EBPV and a matching non-EBPV turbo pedestal. It eliminated the area where mine had developed the leak. In order to prevent a code for a failed EBPV from showing, you just need to add a resister in the circuit.

Regardless of whether this fixes your problem (it certainly might) its a good modification.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
I deleted the EBPV from my 2002 about 5 years ago.

Regardless of whether this fixes your problem (it certainly might) its a good modification.

Nice good to hear. Mine isn’t leaking (yet) so I’m thinking I might just unplug the actuator and wire the valve open for now.... Still weighing out options though. There’s a good chance that my tube is plugged up too but I’m not sure the best approach to cleaning it yet still reading up on it.

Pretty sure mine is an early 99 so the turbo is different but it looks like there are kits out there to delete the EBPV for around $400.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Time for new turbo, pedestal, injectors, and some tunes. Make that 7.3 actually run.

It would be nice to wake the ol’ girl up a bit! It had an old school Edge turner on it when I bought it. Of course... it was set on the highest setting (called extreme) used for pulling horse trailers with no gauges :neutral: I put it back to stock for now.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Not my first choice in hubs but I scored some Mile Markers from a friend of mine for cheap! My stock hubs were broken so it’ll be good. Yeah I’m missing a lug nut for now haha

Do you guys think 245/75’s would be too small on this truck? I put a brand new pair of KO2’s on the suburban a few months ago.. I’m thinking about swapping them onto Tinky.

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Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
That’s better. I swapped on a stock bumper that I found at a local salvage yard for $25. Only issue is it’s a little bent on the passenger side. Oh well it’s a well used truck so it doesn’t look too out of place on there :D

I can’t believe what was holding that old bumper on. It used two 1/2” bolts on each side and the weight of it actually broke the lower half of the truck frame bracket. Just getting it off of there by myself was tricky it weighed a TON. I was able to weld the frame brackets and it should be plenty strong for the stock bumper.



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Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
As I add miles I’m starting to miss the simplicity of the IDI! It used one 12v wire to run the injection and everything was mechanical so once that engine started it was running without much to stop it. No sensors, emissions nothing.. that was very comforting when exploring backroads and such!

In comparison there is a lot of electronics and complexity on the Powerstroke (and all new vehicles for that matter) and I can’t help but think there is a lot that could leave me stranded.

For those familiar with these trucks and this engine what would you consider to be must have critical spares/tools? I have a spare serpentine belt, idler and a decent selection of hand tools but so far that’s it. Thinking I need at least a CPS, the tool to change it and a decent scan tool. Anyway I would love to hear some suggestions or recommendations.
 
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Die Blaue Ziege

Working on a Ford somewhere
Location
Logan ut
IPR, CPS, ICP sensor, EOT sensor, spare fuel and oil filter. All the sensors are motorcraft, otherwise you will still be stuck. Small socket and box end wrench set. Also have battery jump box, and of course my hand gun.
 

Die Blaue Ziege

Working on a Ford somewhere
Location
Logan ut
Oh yeah, don't forget a bottle of power service 911 for us northern utah cold winter guys. Some wise old sage told me about that one. And a spare fan belt never hurt.
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
I've had a 7.3L Powerstroke for the past 15 years. Lots of starters, batteries and a few alternators. My current truck I changed the oil lines from the OEM style that use 3 o-rings per end to just one o-ring per end. Once an o-ring goes on any of the lines the engine will dump all of its oil in no time.

I have swapped CPS' a few times, but never had a failure. I still have an original "black" Ford CPS. Using Autoenginuity, I picked the CPS that made the idle smoothest.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Location
Smithfield Utah
Thanks for the help everyone. I’ll get some stuff together :cool: Mouse, that’s the first I’ve heard of the oil lines.. is there a kit available somewhere?

Speaking of starters I’m looking at the Powermaster. I had one in my IDI and wished I would have bought one from day one as it was crazy fast. The stock planetary reduction starters on these trucks are so slow.. and I’m worried about winter camping. Nothing worse than trying to jumpstart a dead frozen diesel haha.



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Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
For my last starter (which has lasted the longest and performed the best) I built my own. This starter is basically one from the new 6.7L engine and I used the gear box from a 7.3L starter to make it work on my truck. It has a much stronger motor - bigger windings, etc. It took swapping some bearings that had to be pressed in (I have my own press). I think there is a Youtube video on how to build one. The only failure I've had with starters have been with the solenoid (on the 2 trucks I've owned, probably went through 6 or 7 starters.). I carry a new chinese (cheap) starter in the truck as a spare (I've used it a couple times to make sure it's good) and have a spare solenoid in the garage.


lines.JPG

I am pretty sure that I bought the oil line kit from CNC Fab (mine are braided lines). I got the 3 line kit which includes a crossover line between the heads. That line really smooths out the engine (esp at idle).
 
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