Semi virtual JKU build

[anderson750]

I have been on the lookout for a good used 2012 + JKU. I have an initial budget of around 23K to spend on it. While I would like to find a Rubicon, it probably won't be possible. So the dilema here is to find a lower model one with some build already done or find a stock one and use the leftover money to build it myself. While I like the 2nd option better I worry about time to do it.

The purpose of this Jeep will be my daily driver and trail capable machine. Would probably run it on 35's but wouldn't mind doing 37's......but there is that minor detail of the lower models have the D30 instead of the D44. If I ever got to the point of having to do something with the front end I wouldn't have any issue looking into an axle upgrade. So with that in mind, what would you do?

If you were to build a trail capable daily driver, what lift would you do. What other upgrades would you do.

Know of any already built rigs out there on the market?

 

[zmotorsports]

If you are planning on daily driving it and still be very capable I would stick with 35" tires. Best of both worlds in my opinion and jumping up to the 37's require much more attention than merely a lift to do it right and reliably.

I like the Metalcloak springs so I would recommend the 3.5" Gamechanger and 35" tires. That will handle great on the road and perform great off-road.

Mike

 

[mbryson]

In my opinion, the D30 vs D44 isn’t much of an upgrade. Both have the same “meh” housing. Axle joints, axle tubes, C’s, ball joints, etc are the same between the two. The center section is obviously more robust on the D44, but with 35” tires, you should be ok with either housing. If it were me, I’d likely skip the ‘12-13 models because of the head casting? Not sure if I’ve heard of ‘14-up head failures but it’s something to consider.

Turn off the nanny traction control and whatever the hell else kills the engine in snow/sand/mud and it’s be a pretty good (although portly) rig

 

[anderson750]

In my opinion, the D30 vs D44 isn’t much of an upgrade. Both have the same “meh” housing. Axle joints, axle tubes, C’s, ball joints, etc are the same between the two. The center section is obviously more robust on the D44, but with 35” tires, you should be ok with either housing. If it were me, I’d likely skip the ‘12-13 models because of the head casting? Not sure if I’ve heard of ‘14-up head failures but it’s something to consider.

Turn off the nanny traction control and whatever the hell else kills the engine in snow/sand/mud and it’s be a pretty good (although portly) rig

I forgot about the head issue. Went through that with my wife's '13 Grand Cherokee.

In regards to lift kits, what kits out there give the best bang for the buck. I had a Teraflex LCG long arm kit on my TJ and loved it, but don't see the budget to do something like that on this if I buy a stock JK and build it up. @zmotorsports mentioned the Metalcloak kit, what other kits give a good bang for the buck with quality components?

 

[glockman]

Greg was running the Teraflex Alpine on his and he seemed to like it. The alpine has rubber control arm bushings instead of flex joints. Mesha can help you out with Teraflex parts for a screaming deal if you want to go that way.

 

[Hickey]

The Tera Alpine arms are very nice. I've had my front lowers since they first came out 4 years ago. I've since changed out all of my arms to Alpines.

The front D30 will take plenty of abuse on 35's. I would plate the lower control arm mounts and track bar mounts first thing.

 

[Hickey]

on the head issue I would actually lean toward a 12. It's all warrantied, and it's likely already been done on a rig with 50k or more.

I have a friend with a 2017 that is at the dealer now waiting for this to be done.