Jeep Stretch YJ "Might as well" Build

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Supporting Vendor
Location
Utah
#83
Can you make one of those fancy short pans for less than $250 and still be worth your welding time? That looks like a fair amount of prep/weld time.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
#87
I have turned truck pans into f body pans. Hmmm this just gave ma a business idea:thinking:. . .
Nice, you should consider making up 5 of them and put them on EBay. Be a huge advantage if you could also run the aftermarket baffle/traps with them.

I'm sure trying to keep it low yet maintain enough uptravel it can be streetable and hopefully even fun at speed. I started out trying to achieve 7" uptravel, when it's finished it will be about 5". Frame sits at 23" and the skid drops to 21" clearance on 40" tires. Not sure how this compares or if it really ended up a low'ish build.

BTW, huge thanks for mentioning EBay. I was ready to order the F-Body pan along with all the bits and pieces online at a cost of $372. Checked EBay and got a new takeoff with everything I need included for $240.
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
#88
I was really excited about one of my most recent purchases, an LJ hard top! I had the brilliant idea of setting the hard top on the tub to set the windshield pitch then I could start to measure for the roll cage. And this happened... View attachment 115668
I found another LJ hardtop this week. It's also damaged from being flopped on its side, but both side glass pieces are good. Real nice guy, gave me a screaming deal.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
#89
I haven't accomplished much in the last few weeks, my daughter had a deer permit so I took a break and spent some time with her.

I have made a small amount of progress on my steering.

On a bit of a side note, I have access to aluminum, however I don't have the means to weld it. Is there anyone in the south Utah county area that can weld aluminum?
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
#94
I've begun assembling parts for my brakes. Trying to create a decent park brake has had me stumped for a while. A line lock seemed the easiest route for a short term parking scenario, but I want a brake that I can also control drag on the rear tires if desired. A locking drift hand brake was my preference, but I couldn't find a good location to mount it where it would be accessible for use.

So here's what I've come up with... I'll use my YJ park brake pedal to actuate a small master cylinder mounted inline to the rear brakes. I believe the brake system will function normally when the park brake is released. When I press the park brake pedal it should pressurize the rear calipers with the stock linkage locking the pedal in position and retain pressure. Of course this too will be limited in how long it can hold the vehicle. IMG_6009.JPG
 

mesha

By endurance we conquer
Supporting Vendor
Location
A.F.
#95
Possibly a fuel tank. I'm currently using the stock YJ tank but would like to explore the possibility of a fuel cell custom built to fit inside frame rails and maybe raise the cargo floor a few inches.
Cool. I am probably not your guy. I have a TIG welder and spool gun that can weld aluminum, but I am not sure I am ready to tackle a gas tank for someone else. Maybe my own :)
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
#96
I've been slowly working on piecing together the brake system. The parking brake works, however if I don't slightly preload the calipers with the brake pedal before pushing the park brake, the park brake pedal goes all the way to floor before really building pressure. Maybe air in the line still, I thought the .750 Wilwood PB master cylinder would provide enough fluid movement to lock up the two rear single piston calipers. I also need to verify I'm getting the full stroke on the PB master cylinder when the pedal is fully depressed.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
#97
So I'm using a Torque locker in the front D60. My axles/unit bearings slide in to within about 1/4"- 3/8" of the unit bearing seating then get tight not wanting to easily slide further. Do you guys think it could be spline related at that point?
 
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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Supporting Vendor
Location
Utah
#99
So I'm using a Torque locker in the front D60. My axles/unit bearings slide in to within about 1/4"- 3/8" of the unit bearing seating then get tight not wanting to easily slide further. Do you guys think it could be spline related at that point?
Did you ever figure this out? I don't recall any excessive "tightness" putting in my unit bearings, other than the O-ring drag...
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Did you ever figure this out? I don't recall any excessive "tightness" putting in my unit bearings, other than the O-ring drag...
No, I haven't figured out the cause. Came out easy, put the Torque locker in and that last 1/4" just doesn't want to go. I've got some bare OEM 1550 joint shafts I need to try.
 
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