TDI Comanche Build

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
I need some help with the NV241OR, everywhere I read to not open the oil pump on the , however, the case is shattered. My new case arrived sans pump, so I removed the bolts and swapped it over. I cleaned everything with brake clean and then sprayed with WD40. Am I hosed? I really didn’t have any other option. The pump is not a sealed unit with an input seal from what I’ve found, unless this case was opened before and it was left out.


Need some input before I completely reassemble.

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RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
I’ve heard that too, and my guess is that disassembling has a chance of causing one of gears in the pump to be off center. Kinda like this video of an LS oil pump shows. I don’t know how these principles could be applied to the 241 pump though.
 

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
I’ve heard that too, and my guess is that disassembling has a chance of causing one of gears in the pump to be off center. Kinda like this video of an LS oil pump shows. I don’t know how these principles could be applied to the 241 pump though.
That’s precisely my thought too. The pump is bolt centric, no dowels or anything to keep it perfectly centered. Maybe I can figure out a way to check it with a dial indicator to get it as close to centered as possible.
 

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Just discovered there is a collar on the output shaft that meets the oil pump. Difference is 10 thousandths. Wondering if I can find some 5 thou shims, slide the shaft in, shim it, and be at the mercy of the output bearing to keep me centered.
 

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Shasta shims work wonders. I am forever at the mercy of that output bearing though. Almost thinking I should see if somebody can turn me an aluminum spacer to pop in to help relieve any play that the bearing has. Otherwise I’m just hoping by keeping it vertical that it’s centered well enough.

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The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Well that’s done, and I will never do it again, if this blows, I’m getting an atlas. Had to order 4mm pins for the tone ring locator and cut one down.

Feels like everything turns smooth so hopefully my alignment trick worked! Otherwise this was a quick $1200 down the drain…..

No yokes yet, I ordered two 1310 high clearance units so I can run stock CV shafts and hopefully save some money there vs buying a whole new shafts from Tom Woods.
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The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
What’s the easiest way to setup the axle for my CV shaft? Just rotate the housing by eye and tack my perches? Or get a straight edge on it somehow? I’m reading 2° below output is ideal for the CV.
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
You do want it a couple degrees low for a couple reasons. First, the axle will wrap up slightly under power but more importantly I would argue is that this will cause the bearings in the ujoint caps to move around and keep things wearing evenly. Perfect 0° means the same few bearings get all the millions of cycles of loading. When I’ve set pinion angle (granted with links), I’ll bolt the shaft in place and eyeball it then drop the axle end of the shaft down and put an angle finder on it. You can do similar with spring perches, just clamp things tight with the u bolts and loosen if you need some adjustment
 

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Since I can make payments on the medical bills, I need to keep my sanity in the meantime, so I’m going to keep wrenching until it either sells or gets finished.

So I started the flatbed, from 2” tube I scored, $20 per stick! 1/8 wall

I think yet I am going to throw the 3” springs I got under the front, the add a leaf in the rear. Then I’ll have to finish up the flatbed to match whatever height that puts me at.

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